Posts Tagged ‘Worldcup’

This morning 07.30 I found myself at Schiphol Airport. I had plenty of time to check in my luggage. Nowadays this whole procedure is automated. Quickly I put my kiwis in my suitcase before they’ll be taken away by security officers. At the check in there are no more cassiers anymore, but big machines which are ready to take your suitcase. You have to insert your suitcase, it will be weighted and then you can tag your own case. That’s it. Easy peasy.

Luckily I passed the security. They couldn’t take anything away from me. Besides that, I was lucky enough to walk through the metal gates without being checked thoroughly by the security officers.

I was walking around Schiphol for half an hour and relaxed at these nice comfy chairs with a view on the airplanes. An hour later Elko, Nikki and Ulf joined me at the computer corner, where I was enjoying free wifi.

I worked on some photos before I step on the airplane. On my way to Torino!

Update 11:30
I arrived in one piece at Turin airport where I was heading directly towards Hertz to pickup a rental car. My luggage seems complete although it looks really compact compared to the rest. I checked in 10 kg, that’s should be enough I suppose.

One hour later I was sitting behind the steering wheel, navigated by Ulf who was relaxing on the passengers seat. Nikki and Elko are sitting in the back. On my way to France!

Update 13:30
We arrived at Briançon. Everything looks so colourful here. The mountains are nice as well. Our accommodation was easy to find. Fortunately I was well prepared. I printed my bookings when I was at home. The planning for this evening is to join the technical meeting, check the action wall and dine together.

The technical meeting was nice. The teams were announced and there is one change for tomorrow. The women will start at 14.00 h instead of 15.00 h. Ulf got the start list and from all men I have the honor to start 1st in route 1. So be prepared, tomorrow I’ll be at the isolation area at 07.00 AM to prepare myself for the routes and I’ll start climbing at precisely 08.30h. Check the live stream!

My teamshirt is ready.

I’m going to sleep now cause my alarm will wake me in 7 hours again. See you tomorrow. Bonnuit!

This week I’m going to join the Worldcup in Briançon. It’s the second lead worldcup of the season!

Thursday I’ll fly with KLM airlines to Turin Airport and drive off to Briançon. Elko and Nikki will keep me company and are also on the startlist. Ulf will tag along and support us by carrying our bags and keep an eye on the organization.

When we’ll arrive at the venue, we have to check in our team at the technical meeting. We’ll receive a start number and information about the program.

I hope the weather will be better than here. I looked into the forecast and pasted it into my webpage. This looks okay so far, I just hope it will stay dry when we have to climb the qualifications, semis and finals!

Besides the good weather, I will also share the official Worldcup poster. Click on the poster to check out the provisional program.

And to complete this post, I added 2 videos. The wall looks impressive, right? I can’t wait to climb on it! I’ll try to keep you up to date these days. Enjoy the videos!

Trailer: announcement Worldcup Briançon 2012

Movie: Finals Worldcup Briançon 2011

At this moment the Lead Worldcup Season is being kicked off at Chamonix!

Two Dutch teammembers are competing in this Worldcup: Elko & Nikki. According the program of this event, they will climb their qualifications very soon.

Thursday 12th July

Men & women lead qualification
09:30 – 16:00 men’s qualification (route 1 & route 2)
10:00 – 14:00 women’s qualification (route 1 & route 2)

Men & women speed qualification
17:00 women’s qualification
18:00 men’s qualification

Men & women speed finals
20:45 grouping men & women in the warming zone
21:00 speed final round

Friday 13th July

Men & women lead semi-finals
13:30 observation period men & women
14:00 start of semi-finals men & women

Men & women lead finals
21:00 start of men and women finals
22:45 awarding ceremony

Follow the live cam by clicking on the photo.

Live worldcup TV from Chamonix, France

Good luck from The Netherlands.

Update 12.30:

Nikki in action, qualification route 2

Elko in action, qualification route 1

Time flies so fast. Meanwhile it was a week ago that the Worldcup boulder was downtown at Eindhoven.

I spotted another video about the Worldcup boulder at Eindhoven on the webpage of Udo Neumann. It gives a really nice impression about the competition behind the scenes. Check it out yourself when rain pours down on Eindhoven!

Video: Worldcup Boulder Eindhoven

The next worldcup on the calender already took place this weekend in Barcelona. If we scan the Dutch team on the result list, we find a nice result from Nicky de Leeuw who advanced to the semis yet again and ended up 18th, whereas Casper ten Sijthoff finished on 27th, Wouter Jongeneelen on spot 39 and Vera Zijlstra on spot 26. The rest of the results are here.

Would you like to follow more news about the Dutch climbing team? Click on the ‘Like’ button at Facebook! I like!

Just like previous year Nicky de Leeuw crashed at my place. It was midnight really fast after a nice game of ping pong and some stressful punching on gamecontrollers. Nicky could manage his loss very well. However my night was awesome and we decided to get some sleep.

We’d set our alarm at half past 7, so we would be on time to support the ladies in the qualifications. In the morning we visited a local supermarket to get ourselves a nice breakfast. A few buns of bread should be nice. Nicky picked some peanutbutter and I felt like Nutella chocolate spread.

After our breakfast we went downtown by foot. Then I realised that I had forgotten my chalkbag. I left it behind in Monk! Oh well, I’ll pick that up later. We’re happy it was such a nice weather with sunshine.

The worldcup venue was downtown. It was nice to see how everyone still got involved by the music and the whole setup to see what’s going on. The worldcup boulder of course!

The ladies started climbing, the best were climbing first. The problems were funny and creative. For instance, modules were placed upon other modules. It looked so easy to climb.

Meanwhile the square was getting pretty crowded. David Sluijs sat next to me, he’s our federation doctor. He advised me about food. What is good food to eat before you start a competition? What kind of food is easy to digest en gives me the energy I need? His response was pasta. It’s good to eat pasta 3 hours before a competition and not to forget some sugar. That was a good suggestion, I was getting hungry anyway!

After the ladies qualifications, it was time for us to go to the isolation. I wanted to arrive there as late as possible, due to my start number. I’m one of the last climbers anyway. The isolation was at the Beursgebouw building. I received my start number sticker and had to hand in my cellphone. I wasn’t allowed to have contact with anyone outside this building.

In the isolation area, you could see teams sticking together. Each country was relaxing for themselves and everyone was reuniting on the warm up wall. I felt good and didn’t have any injuries. After one hour our fysio Tessa van Roy gave me a nice massage to loosen up my back. I got treated on her massage table and it felt so good.

In the background I noticed isolation people were working hard. They managed this area pretty well. It contained lots of food, drinks, magazines, mats, chairs and a warm up wall.

I wanted to warm up proper but I couldn’t. It was just too crowded on the wall. I wanted to get pumpy but it just seemed impossible on such a small wall. I changed my tactics and divided my warm up session in multiple climbing series. It went well but unfortunately no pumpy arms.

After 5 hours of isolation, it was finally my turn! We got escorted with an umbrella to the competition wall. Near the competition wall was another isolation area. It contained fridges with cans of Redbull and lots of water. I prepared myself and put on my Boreal competition shoes and received a score form. I could feel other people getting nervous. I just had to manage myself in 5 minutes.

I saw the last few seconds ticking away on the digital clock. Yes here we go! I’m entering the mats and walk towards the first wall. Every boulder was explained in English. It was obvious how to get started. The first move was tricky, there were no footholds and you don’t want to zip away.

To reach the bonus, you had to place your left foot on this black sloper hold. I wasn’t strong enough to compress these holds together. I understood the problem very well but I wasn’t able to conduct these movements. I needed more time for this. The game has just started and all I had was just 5 poor minutes to send this problem.

I didn’t manage to reach the bonus. I figured I was well rested from my holiday. I only got frustrated and wanted to shake my hands alive.

It didn’t work. I got punished in the very first problem. My time was up and I got back in the isolation. We weren’t allowed to talk about boulder problems. It was a pretty serious observation in there. I tried to reset myself for my second boulder. After 5 minutes of rest I could start all over again.

In the second boulder I took my time to figure out the proper sequence. The beginning wasn’t so difficult. However the crux was at the end of the problem.

With my left hand I was trying to pinch this big fat slopy module while I was holding an undercling with my right hand. Next was a mean pinch and that felt like the crux of this problem. I wanted to place a heelhook with my right foot but in that point of view that hold was like gone. Oh well, I performed a knee drop and went to the pinch!

I succeeded only once to get the pinch. I just didn’t want to let go but matching it was too difficult. I fell out of the problem and got disappointed. Back in the isolation I was thinking about the problems. They seem possible though, but with my current condition it was impossible. Lets see what problem 3 is about!

When I arrived at my third boulder, I faced the wall and all I saw were big purple holds. A monster! I could barely pinch it. I was just pinching it while standing on the mat. This is it.

When I went for the second hold, I felt like I was dying. I could hardly pinch the second hold, it was so big. Continuing with my left hand seemed just impossible.

I tried to put my foot on my right hand hold but nothing seemed to work. There was simply no space for my heel! Well, this is the truth. I was confronted by these purple holds. I didn’t know what to do with it!

I tried a few more times, but I only got tired of trying. I couldn’t find the right tension to climb this horrible monster. I felt weak.

Back in the isolation I checked my score form. I see dashes, no scores, nothing. Just a few bonuses. Sad, real sad score. Then I figured, what the hell am I doing? I wasn’t enjoying this competition at all. I was only getting frustrated. I wasn’t climbing, I didn’t like my situation!

Within 5 minutes I tried something new. I wanted to enjoy climbing, that’s what this is all about. It was a mental game. I know I’m not in shape but here I am. It was an honour to be here. I had just set a new goal. It was time for my 4th boulder problem.

A buzz went off and I ran towards my 4th problem. This wall was set with modules. I figured out what to do.

The first few attempts failed. I had to try something else. What would Kilian do in this situation? But of course, using the corners! I wanted to climb like that and I did. I felt pretty warmed up and nearly managed to send the boulder. Unfortunately I fell before the final hold!

I had 2 minutes left. I knew I could do this! All I had to do is get a proper rest. Just one more try. I could feel the adrenaline in my body. I chalked my hands before I started this problem. I placed my hands on the volume and checked out the timer and knew this was my moment!

The movements went okay. I placed a knee bar between the volumes and managed to grab the next hold. I was so close to the final hold. I couldn’t reach it though! I can’t give up, I won’t let go. I replaced my left heel and compressed my legs. I could reach the final hold static and I heard the crowd was cheering for me! It gave me more energy to match the final hold. Yeaah! I was so relieved and at the same time I felt so strong.

Back in the isolation I was trying to recharge myself one more time. I was sweating and my body felt like superman. I wanted to climb more! I was enjoying my rest time and soon I had to perform one more time.

Boulder number 5 was really nice but also very difficult. Just like the second boulder problem, the crux was at the end. The begin was okay. I liked this move, crossover to an undercling and then stand up on a volume.

Then it was time to stand up and go for a small slopy hold on a module. From this undercling and the pinch on the volume, it was a matter of deadpoint to a slopy hold. It felt hard to jump without any footholds. For a second I thought I should match this pinch, but it was impossible. I can’t pinch anymore, I’m too weak. I was jumping but I couldn’t get my hands on the slopy hold. There were no footholds! Well I think it was just some crazy semi one arm pull up and if you’re not strong enough, you won’t make it to the slopy hold. Even if you hang on the slopy hold, you would still have to make another move to send the problem!

My final attempt was poor. It was time for me to leave the stage.

I felt a lot of emotions. I don’t know what to do with it. Should I be content with my result? I had 1t4 3b4. A lame score, 59th place. Of course I did my very best however I just had 2 weeks of rest. My body is still in rest mode. I simply need more time to get back in shape.

Most important is the experience. I enjoyed my time. It was fun, exciting, challenging and I can go on for hours. No semi finals for me. It’s impossible with such a result. To advance to the semis you should send each problem. Only the best boulderers deserve a spot in the semis.

It was really nice to compete in this competition. I’d like to thank Jorg Kemner for his great and colourful photos! You can check out more photos related to the worldcup here, here and here.

Next I’d like to thank everyone who supported me during the Worldcup boulder at Eindhoven. Despite the rain, I’ve had an unforgettable weekend. Last but not least the after party Samedi Soir at Monk! 1 word: incroyable!

I’m well motivated for my next competition at Chamonix in France. Lets train some routes!

Just one more day until the boulder Worldcup will start and I’ll be downtown Eindhoven performing among 116 other top climbers of the world for a semi final spot!

Here are some fun facts:
– According the startlist of the IFSC, I’ll be in group 1. My start number is 34 out of 37.
– Between 11.30 A.M. and 12.30 P.M. I have to be in the isolation (Beursgebouw building), waiting for about 5 hours. From 11.30 A.M. I’ll be difficult to reach by mobile (we’ll have to hand in our mobiles) and I’ll focus on the competition.
– The qualifications for men will start at 2.30 P.M. and ends about 6.30 P.M. I think I’ll be climbing about 6 P.M. Check out the full program here.
– If you’re not able to witness this event, then you can check out the webcam to follow me. The IFSC has their own livestream.

It’s pretty obvious by now that this event will take place on the 18 September square. This square is forbidden area to all 117 athletes including me. We’re not allowed to see the holds, it’s a competition! I can only show you a photo of the empty walls and a nice platform of this square!

Our isolation / warm up area will be in the Beursgebouw, which is located about 200 meters away from the competition wall. The small isolation is right behind the competition wall.

To cut my story short, I have a weather forecast for you: Some drizzle, heaviest during Wed afternoon, very mild (max 19°C on Tue afternoon, min 10°C on Fri afternoon), wind will be generally light. (source:

I’m going to dress warm and leave my shorts at home. Wish me luck and see you tomorrow!

For any inquiries, click here to send me an e-mail.