Posts Tagged ‘training’

Goodmorning you all!

Today I’ll feed you with some campus motivation. This is what climbers do when they’re really motivated to train their fingers and strength. Are you motivated yet?

Video: Wolfgang Gullich

Video: Tazio Il Biondo’s tribute to Wolfgang Gullich

Since I’m a bit in a training mood, I’d like to share this great video about pro climbers training hard.

Even pro climbers have to try hard sometimes. This video shows how The North Face athletes, including Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson, Matt Segal, Sam Elias, and others, get stronger through blood, sweat, and good, old-fashioned hard work.

Video: Rock climbing training TNF athletes

Here is a video for those who need some extra motivation but don’t know what to do. I bet you don’t train as much as her! So do you want to become strong? Watch her work out and get motivated and try it yourself!
(My note: do adapt your eating habits, start easy and make it a routine!)

Workout Summary:
Deadhangs 5-10, 5-second deadhangs on each type of grip

100 Pull-up workout
8 frenchies
8×6 unevens
20 regular

By the way, her name is Galina Parfenov from the United States.

Video: Galina Parfenov, climb related exercises

Yesterday I had my usual teamtraining at Monk Bouldergym only this time it was shifted to the morning.

Vera, Wouter, Eva and me were having a nice boulder training. I was super motivated and wanted to train 120%. Sunday I went to Stonage in Brussel which was really nice. Tuesday I trained at Monk, Wednesday at Neoliet Eindhoven and Thursday this training. It was my 3rd climbing day in a row.

It all went well until the last few minutes of the boulder training. We started with some warm up boulder problem followed by a few boulder problems between 6a and 7b, short campus session in between and another 2 rounds of boulder problem solving.

I was doing okay until I fell out of a boulder problem. It was a really interesting boulder problem which I’ll probably never repeat again. I had to cross over with my right arm and at the same time leaning on my left heel.

It was so interesting that Wouter shot some photos which I could use for my blog and at that same time I didn’t want to give up. I was basically sitting on my left heal and bent my knee too far away from me that it had to give up on me.

As I was lying on the mat, I tried to move my toes. I could move my left foot, stretch my leg but my knee hurted a lot. I decided to stop the training and immediately made an appointment with our tied doctor.

Throughout the day my knee started to hurt more. I was able to walk in the afternoon but throughout the day I can’t walk proper anymore. I’m still able to bend my knee really careful but I can’t make certain moves anymore at the moment. For instance walking up the stairs is difficult though. According my doctor my left knee is injured: lateral band is partly torn! That’s all I can say for now.

As for now, I’ll need a to run a MRI scan at the hospital as soon as possible (urgent!) to see what exactly is torn, what I’m capable of, what I’m not capable of, how long it will take to recover and when I can start climbing again.

I’m afraid I have to cancel the national championship boulder for come Saturday at Rotterdam 🙁 I’ll keep you up to date.

It’s time to share some climbing news!

I’ll travel back in time and start with my training news.

2 months ago on Thursday april 19th we went to a climbing gym at Puurs Belgium. 2 times per month we are going to train in another climbing gym. I believe that Puurs Klimax II is one of the better climbing gyms to train.

It was a while ago since I have climbed routes: 2 months to be precise. Each Thursday I’m off at work, so I can spend time to climb. In this case it was great to be in another climbing gym.

Team members Elko, Tim and Nikki were also attending this training. Ulf assisted us by belaying me. I climbed about 8 long routes and I got quite pumpy. Where did my endurance go?

Every time I visit Puurs, I keep thinking: Okay this is it, I should return here every week to train. If I want to push my limits I should at least climb here once a month! However – 2 months later – as we’re speaking, I still haven’t returned to Puurs. I’m going to plan a climbing session right away!

Hey climbers!

I wrote a major story about my training abroad! Last weekend I visited Puurs Klimax, but unfortunately the open gym was closed since September 17th due to the Worldcup. This weekend I couldn’t return though. Where am I able to train proper?

To change subjects, my Sunday started with 3 super delicious brown buns, of which 2 were smeared with butter and choco paste and one with chick curry. My breakfast was surprisingly awesome. It gave me loads of energy for the next few hours!

In the afternoon I went to Wupperwände in Germany to train onsight climbing with Alexander, Nikki and Tabitha. This climbing gym is perfect to train due to its many hard routes. I haven’t been here since last year and all routes were new to me.

I believe we arrived there about 1.45 P.M. and we climbed until 7 P.M.! I ate 4 sultana crackers and didn’t have time for a lunchbreak. The other 5 hours I managed to climb 10 routes. I could recover pretty well and keep on climbing. Wupperwände is nice because of the lead climbing, the overhanging walls and the available free wi-fi for your phone. I wasn’t the one who figured out there was free wi-fi though. I won’t mention any names :).

My ticklist: blue 6, red 7+, black 8-, green 9, attempt black 9+, brown 9, black 9+, attempt orange 9+, white 9- and blue 9. The routes probably doesn’t mean much, however a route database might give you an impression of the available routes. There aren’t that many difficult routes in my opinion. My reference point was like a German 8 equals a 7a, a 9 equals a 7c etc etc. Read more about a conversion table of the grades. German grade system belongs to UIAA list.

Sometimes the route wasn’t representing the grade. It was either too easy, whereas a + more it felt so much harder. The difference was quite noticable between a 9 and a 9+. Anyway, it a subjective experience though.

To cut a story short, I trained well abroad with Alexander, Nikki and Tabitha! See you next time again climbers!

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