Posts Tagged ‘training’

Today my friends from boulder gym Kunststof celebrated their 1-year anniversary.

Throwing a boulder party called Kunst|Werck is the best way to celebrate your anniversary. 31 fresh set boulders were the results of last week. From toehooks and heelhooks to hanging upside down and running on volumes. Piece by piece they were fun and creative to climb.

I always get super psyched to climb when I visit this gym. In my opinion they have succeeded well. It was fun to watch other people climb, however it was more fun to climb all.

I ended up on the podium with 4 other climbers. It was good to hear the announcement at the end of the party: a second boulder gym will be open soon in Utrecht! šŸ˜€ I wish you all the best and see you next time!

Hi climbers!

As you know the lead season started a month ago. The first lead competition was held in Tilburg. I consider Neoliet Tilburg as one of my home gyms where I like to climb in the amazing roof.

The qualification routes went pretty well. The first route was set in the roof. I had no trouble with the roof climbing and it felt like a warm up route to me. The second route was set on the main wall. It was more a long boulder with a challenging start. Fortunately I could boulder my way up and because of this I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I can cut my story short about the finals. My left foot slipped from the first hold. My attempt was over. I felt unhappy, however I know how to cope with disappointment. Unfortunately I ended up 8th.

After the competition I went to Italy for 2 weeks. I just got back from a relaxing holiday to Arco when 3 days later the 2nd lead competition was held in Amsterdam. I had to change my focus from rock to plastic in a short period of time. Before the competition I climbed routes in Tilburg and had another boulder session in Monk. With a rest day in between the climbing sessions I was hoping for a peak moment during the competition.

This competition was held in Mountain Network Amsterdam. The first route was easy, I topped this route without getting pumped in my forearms. The second route went really well until I fell on the last move. I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I had plenty of time to prepare for the finals. The route contained a lot of moves. My endurance level was being tested during my climb. I could climb and fight until I was totally pumped in my forearms.

Finals

I ended up 2nd which currently places me 3rd in the overall ranking. Iā€™m happy with the result and will try to keep my place or advance to the top!

Truong-w-medal

For now there are no lead competitions planned. The next one will take place in September, at Rock Steady Bussum. After that the last competition at I-VY Climbing Sittard in October. I will keep you posted šŸ™‚

Good afternoon you all!

Dust 2015 was a great event yesterday! I was waiting in front of the gym at 9.45 AM, so psyched to climb!

Waiting

Photo credits: Chris Waitzman

I wasn’t the only one waiting at the door though. Among a crowd of psyched climbers we were all waiting for the gym to open.

psyched

I felt quite excited when I peeked through the windows and saw Monk was ready to receive 250 (!) climbers.

Prep

And at 10.01 AM the gym doors were open and I was the first climber who received a scoreform!

register

Yeah I was ready to climb. Once again my mind was set to climb the most boulders of the day. I didn’t want to spend many attempts on each boulder, simply because there was no time for that. I was aiming to climb boulders which could lose lots of texture after many climbs. After that I spent time on some hard boulder problems. It took me quite some time to finish 8 hard problems. I decided not to spend more than 5 attempts for each hard problem. I think that worked out well.

enter first

After that I spent time on queuing and climbing many problems. I liked many problems, different styles and different kind of holds. Some of the holds were really sharp! Some of the boulder problems I didn’t even try, it would take too much time waiting. The new walls are definitely a nice add on to the gym!

At the end of the day I was quite surprised my skin was still okay. I expected to have bleeding fingers but that didn’t happen. I climbed 78 problems out of 94 total problems. Even though my top 8 wasn’t really high, I was proud at myself of achieving such a list.

scoreform

afterevent

This year Dust felt dustier than ever. In the ranking game I ended up 9th with my top 8 hardest problem. In the All You Can Boulder category I ended up 2nd with 78 problems.

scoreform2

Tim sent 92, quite impressive! I guess I could call my day a success šŸ˜€

price

1daypostclimbing

With 4 bags of chalk, I’m good to go for another few weeks šŸ˜‰ Thank you for the great boulders Monk and thank you Black Diamond for supplying me with chalk šŸ˜€

Today I will show you to another training video with Vera!

I was wondering if I should go to a sportsgym to climb routes or go to a bouldergym. I ended up in the bouldergym once again. Instead of just climbing on holds I wanted to make my training a bit more interesting and challenging. Let’s think outside the box! I introduce you these fun soft addons specially made for climbing.

DSC04873

What to do with it? Well, add it on a training wall and I challenge you to avoid it or to climb through the loops! I added another challenge, which are some extra draws to make myself more tired while avoiding the addons.

DSC04867

And my rest in between the series was decided by a dice. I ended up with 2 minutes rest in between.

DSC04869

DSC04870

DSC04871

DSC04872

Anyway, I recorded a little bit of my fun training. I ran out of memory when I wanted to climb a 32 moves boulder on the 40 degree training wall, estimated 8b route….better luck next time. Check it out!

Video: Fun training

I am just done with editing a training video. I need to say that I was rusty in editing earlier this week. I spent more time on editing than filming the action!

Some background information, this was my 6th climbing session in 4 days(!) This time I looked into a campus board training. After the training I still feel energized, however my skin feels quite sensitive.

This video is based on Sean McColl’s campus board training. I followed his workout on the rungs, skipped some extra rests and it feels good. Vera joined me on this training. To be honest, it is much more fun to train together!

rest = 90 seconds

Up by 1’s – skipped rest
Up by 1’s – rest
Up by 2’s – skipped rest
Up by 2’s – rest
Big dynamic moves – skipped rest
Big dynamic moves – rest
Bumping left hand – skipped rest
Bumping right hand – rest
Bumping left hand – skipped rest
Bumping right hand – rest
Double up by 1’s – skipped rest
Double up by 2’s – rest
Offset double up by 1’s (left hand high) – skipped rest
Offset double up by 1’s (right hand high) – rest
Offset by 2, alternating hands (last exercise of Sean’s workout)

Over onto the orange holds – 15 pullups – 10 pullups (finished on exercises)

Flapper

Watch the video below.

Video: Campus training

Then Vera and I went bouldering for another 1,5 hours.

done climbing

2,5 hours later our climbing session finished. Efficient and productive, that’s the way I like it šŸ˜€

Since a week I have set some goals for the end of this year.

The reason for that is that I want to feel fit when I climb outdoors. You know that feeling, that you’re in a climbing gym and you’re just maintaining your body and fingerstrength but actually you’re not pushing yourself at all? Well, I’m about to change that!

I have been climbing 5 days in a row, 1 day rest, climbed again for 2 days and here we are. Sometimes when I have more time you will find me at the gym multiple times a day. Of course I will climb with a schedule and won’t climb every day. Eventually my aim is to have effective training sessions. For now I was having a short session in the afternoon, got a good rest and had another climbing session in the evening.

One_arm_pullup

Anyway, I have been sharing some videos and photos on Instagram and Facebook. Well, here is an edited version of some pullups which I did yesterday after 6 effective hours at the gym spread out during the day. I’m a bit rusty in editing videos now but it’s better than nothing right? If you’re at Monk, give it a try but be careful with your fingers šŸ˜‰

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