Posts Tagged ‘team’

NKBVAs some of you may already know, I am no longer part of the Dutch Climbing Team. But since I’m still getting the random question every now and then asking me what happened, I thought I’d take some time now to tell you all the story behind it.

Last month, I had a conversation with coach Wally about my performance with the team for 2012. I always feel in good form during training, but it doesn’t seem to reflect with my results on the actual competition. I really wanted to give it my all during the National Championships, but with me just recovering from my knee injury, there really isn’t much that I can do. Then there was the recently announced budget cuts by the NOC*NSF. Sportsclimbing will receive less financial aid starting this year. This means a leaner Dutch climbing team with a focus on developing young talent.

I myself have thought about giving up my position on the team a number of times last year. I feel like I’ve reached a certain point where I need to choose a new direction for my life. So when the coach told me I was being cut from the program, it didn’t took me much to accept his decision. It has been a great 3 years being part of the Dutch Climbing Team. I got to train with some of the best talents our sport has produced and I was able to meet other great athletes from all parts of the globe. I’ll also never forget the friendships I was able to make within the team and that special feeling of working together towards a same goal. So I say a deep and heartful thank you to everyone for allowing me to be a part of this. And I wish the future members good luck and hope they will have the same awesome experience that I had.

Of course I won’t stop climbing. I may be ready to take on new challenges with my life but I won’t be turning my back on climbing just like that. Its a sport I truly love and enjoy. You may even see me in a few more competitions. We will see. But its over and out for now.

Yesterday I had my usual teamtraining at Monk Bouldergym only this time it was shifted to the morning.

Vera, Wouter, Eva and me were having a nice boulder training. I was super motivated and wanted to train 120%. Sunday I went to Stonage in Brussel which was really nice. Tuesday I trained at Monk, Wednesday at Neoliet Eindhoven and Thursday this training. It was my 3rd climbing day in a row.

It all went well until the last few minutes of the boulder training. We started with some warm up boulder problem followed by a few boulder problems between 6a and 7b, short campus session in between and another 2 rounds of boulder problem solving.

I was doing okay until I fell out of a boulder problem. It was a really interesting boulder problem which I’ll probably never repeat again. I had to cross over with my right arm and at the same time leaning on my left heel.

It was so interesting that Wouter shot some photos which I could use for my blog and at that same time I didn’t want to give up. I was basically sitting on my left heal and bent my knee too far away from me that it had to give up on me.

As I was lying on the mat, I tried to move my toes. I could move my left foot, stretch my leg but my knee hurted a lot. I decided to stop the training and immediately made an appointment with our tied doctor.

Throughout the day my knee started to hurt more. I was able to walk in the afternoon but throughout the day I can’t walk proper anymore. I’m still able to bend my knee really careful but I can’t make certain moves anymore at the moment. For instance walking up the stairs is difficult though. According my doctor my left knee is injured: lateral band is partly torn! That’s all I can say for now.

As for now, I’ll need a to run a MRI scan at the hospital as soon as possible (urgent!) to see what exactly is torn, what I’m capable of, what I’m not capable of, how long it will take to recover and when I can start climbing again.

I’m afraid I have to cancel the national championship boulder for come Saturday at Rotterdam 🙁 I’ll keep you up to date.

Yesss here I’m back again. I just returned from a dinner at Mechelen (BEL) with Nikki, Tabitha, Elko and Wouter. We are sleeping here in a hotel at Mechelen. I ran into Jain Kim (room next to me) and also some Austrians are sleeping in the same hotel. It will be a cozy breakfast tomorrow!

We are here because we’ll compete tomorrow (Friday 21st and Saturday 22nd of September) in a worldcup at Puurs. It is the 4th lead worldcup this year.

Tomorrow I’ll compete and start as climber number 15 in my first route and 35th in my second qualification route.

With a total of 39 competitors it is a whole different field compared to last week in France. There will be a lot of strong climbers, so I hope the routes will be really cool.

According the program the routes will start from 11.00 AM till 17.00 hours. I suppose I’ll climb around noon 12.00 o’clock in my first route!

I’m really psyched!! Come support us at Puurs. Or else you can watch at home via the livestream or at the official Flanders Worldcup Puurs webpage!

I’m heading off to bed. Goodnight from Belgium and see you tomorrow!

I’ve been flying under the radar lately. I have been quite busy training but I have an announcement to share!

This week the world championship sportsclimbing will be held in the prestigious Bercy Arena in France.

I’ll be there among the Dutch lead team: Jorg Verhoeven, Elko Schellingerhout, Nikki van Bergen and me. The Dutch boulderteam will be represented by: Vera Zijlstra, Nicky de Leeuw, Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen and Hans Busker. Coach Wouter Jongeneelen and physio Tom Mooij will support us during the whole week. Check out the rest of the competitors here.

Here is a short teaser about the competition.

Trailer: Championnats du Monde d’ESCALADE 2012

What else? Here are some nice numbers. Did you know that there are:
• 85 000 licence holders
• 55 000m² arena space
• 15 000 expected spectators
• 500 athletes
• 200 volunteers
• 50 countries
• 15 judges
• 5 magical days of climbing in Paris
• 2 full days of finals
• 1 international sport arena
• 4335 facebook fans (and climbing…)
• The area looks like:

Provisional program:

Wednesday 12th September
09:00 – 18:00 Qualification MEN BOULDER
12:00 – 18:00 Qualification WOMEN LEAD

Thursday 13th September
12:00 – 18:00 Qualification WOMEN BOULDER
09:00 – 18:00 Qualification MEN LEAD

Friday 14th September
09:00 – 13:00 Practice time MEN & WOMEN SPEED
10:00 – 12:30 Semi-final MEN BOULDER
10:00 – 12:30 Semi-final WOMEN LEAD
14:00 – 18:00 Qualification MEN & WOMEN SPEED

Saturday 15th September
10:00 – 12:30 Semi-final WOMEN BOULDER
10:00 – 12:30 Semi-final MEN LEAD
18:00 – 18:30 Opening Ceremony
18:30 – 20:00 Final MEN BOULDER
20:00 – 20:30 Final PARACLIMBING (male blind1)
20:30 – 20:45 Awarding ceremony
21:15 – 22:15 Final WOMEN LEAD
22:15 – 23:00 Final WOMEN SPEED
23:00 – 23:15 Awarding ceremony

Sunday 16th September
13:00 – 14:30 Final WOMEN BOULDER
14:30 – 15:00 Final PARACLIMBING (male one leg amputee)
15:00 – 15:15 Awarding ceremony
15:45 – 16:45 Final MEN LEAD
16:45 – 17:30 Final MEN SPEED
17:30 – 17:50 Awarding ceremony
17:50 – 18:05 Closing ceremony

According to this program, I’ll start on Thursday 13th September (09:00 – 18:00 Qualification MEN LEAD)!
You can follow the World Championship live. Wish me luck and stay tuned for more updates!

It’s time to share some climbing news!

I’ll travel back in time and start with my training news.

2 months ago on Thursday april 19th we went to a climbing gym at Puurs Belgium. 2 times per month we are going to train in another climbing gym. I believe that Puurs Klimax II is one of the better climbing gyms to train.

It was a while ago since I have climbed routes: 2 months to be precise. Each Thursday I’m off at work, so I can spend time to climb. In this case it was great to be in another climbing gym.

Team members Elko, Tim and Nikki were also attending this training. Ulf assisted us by belaying me. I climbed about 8 long routes and I got quite pumpy. Where did my endurance go?

Every time I visit Puurs, I keep thinking: Okay this is it, I should return here every week to train. If I want to push my limits I should at least climb here once a month! However – 2 months later – as we’re speaking, I still haven’t returned to Puurs. I’m going to plan a climbing session right away!

Dutch climbing team 2012 (complete :D)

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