Posts Tagged ‘sports climbing’

Last couple of weeks I’ve had good training sessions!

I believe I climbed on the following days: Tu, We, Th, Fr, Su, Tu, We, Th, Fr, Tu, Th and Sunday.
Meanwhile my fingers looks very calloused, as it should be when you climb this much. However the main question is: Am I fit? I could test my endurance yesterday during a competition called – 100% bouldering – at The Hague.

This competition wasn’t mentioned on my calendar but I added it later on. The climbinggym was build in a boulder paradise. The rules were simple. 100 divers problems, from easy until hard and each problem was worth 1 point.

Photo by Klimmuur Den Haag

Eventually I managed to solve 95 problems within 4 hours and ended in the finals together with Ulf Lennertz, Youri van Vliet and Tim Reuser.

After a good break, it was time to climb the finals. The finals contained 4 problems with a limit of 20 minutes. There were no other rules though. Everyone could climb at the same time. I managed to send 2 problems. Problem #2 was a bit hard for me, I managed a zone hold. And I was too tired to solve problem #1.

Boulder #1, photo by Jessica Vegh

Boulder #3, photo by Jessica Vegh

It was just too hard to bring up the tension after so many problems. Tim managed to send 3 problems and won the competition. I ended on the 2nd place and Youri became 3rd. The female finals was won by Mirthe van Liere, followed by Elena Belova on the 2nd place and Aniek Lith on the 3rd place. I was content about the competition, climbed a lot and feeling quite sore in my biceps and shoulders today.

To answer my question I raised before, I think I’m quite on my way of getting fit. I’m quite convinced yesterday that I should attend the Dust event because it’s a local competition. I was just in time to sign myself in.

I’m going to climb some at Monk Bouldergym. See ya’ll on Saturday!

Hey everyone!

I almost forgot I was having a webpage! Anyway, I have a major update from Worldcup Puurs. I’m too late with this update, because the event was about a month ago.

Thursday 29th of September, Wally, Nikki and I left from Eindhoven to Belgium. We drove in a Volkswagen, which somewhat had more legspace than the prior small Peugeot 107 from last year. It accelerated pretty well, using 6 shifts and we had the luxury of airconditioning!

It was quite necessary though, the weather was superb. It was quite unusual to have such a weather at the end of September but I really enjoyed it. I had a bag full of stuff with me, whereas Nikki brought a big suitcase plus a big bag with her. It looked like she had packed for 3 weeks, while we suppose to leave for just 2 days from home.

On our way we got stuck in traffic jam, but not that long. It took us 30 minutes longer than usual and then arrived at our hotel at Mechelen. Our hotel was situated in a side street of the main market.

After checking in, we dropped our luggage in our rooms and went for a bite. It was already 7.30 in the P.M.

During dinner Wally managed to register us at the technical meeting. While we’re waiting for dinner, team member Jorg joined our table. He finally arrived after a long journey.

Later that evening fysio Tom arrived as well. He took care of us before we went to bed. Jorg and I shared a hotel room, next to our room was Nikki´s room.

Wally and Tom shared a room on another floor.

Before I went to sleep, I flipped some channels on tv. There was nothing interesting on. Jorg took control of the remote and we watched Jersey Shore on MTV. A nice episode to end this evening though.

In the morning we´re suppose to meet at 9 for breakfast. From the first floor I took the stairs down, because I expected there was a breakfast room on the main floor. But I forgot I was in Belgium, so they pointed me towards the 3rd floor for a breakfast room.

Hmm, quite logical right?

After breakfast we left to the climbing gym.

Once we arrived team member Elko Schellingerhout and Rachèl Nilwik were present too. I tried to figure out which route was my first route. There was a black route on the right and a yellow route on the left. I focused on the black route. It looked nice, but in the roof it was set impossible.

Inside I warmed up with Jorg.

He started with a 7c as warm up, makes you get a good flashpump. That’s a nice way to prepare for a competition route. On the startlist I was next after Jorg. It was a matter of counting down the minutes.

Once in a while I kept myself moving by traversing on the wall. I watched a video of the qualifications. There was a small room available where demos of the qualifications were projected non stop on the wall.

After 2 times you get so bored and walk away.

It was nearly my turn. I went outside, gave the route a quick peek and was ready to climb. Once I left the ground, it was a matter of going all out to the next hold. At the first module there was an undercling which you had to match, I zipped and almost fell out of the route but I managed to focus well and kept my body close to the wall. My feet went back in the wall on the holds and continued. Matching this sloper hold was exciting but I managed well. Then I arrived at this big volume, just below the roof. I could rest for a bit but not for long. When I continued to a pinch, I tried to put my left foot next to my left hand. I couldn’t match it somehow and I was convinced I could do this. I was unable to put my foot so high and fell out of the route. Bummer, it didn’t work! What did I do wrong? I wasn’t pumped or tired. Later I saw another hold in the roof and if you grab that hold with your left hand, then it was possible to swing your foot on top of the module. It was so stupid of me to forget about this hold, I didn’t even see it!

After the route I could get an arm massage. CTO fysio Tessa was present as well. I picked Tom, I believe he can pinch harder and that was just what I needed at that moment.

The second route was a yellow route. I just saw Elko climbing and falling. It was a crux from this intermediair hold to a pinch. Unfortunately his route ended at this point and stood back on the ground. After 2 hours it was my turn in this route. Again Jorg was first and he climbed pretty well in this route! Good enough to advance to the semis. I looked at the start and saw it was annoying. There was a foothold just below the starting hold, so you had to go dynamic and crossover at the first movement. It was dirty but I managed to do that. Carefully I matched a big sized hold and swung my feet to the other side and continued on this grey module. This module was quite dirty but I had to use it. Then I had to put my left foot high on the module and conduct a insecure jump to the next small hold. The next hold was quite far. I had to put my left foot high on this grey module and go dynamic. There were lots of annoying movements in this route where I felt I could barely reach it. It didn’t stop, again going dynamic to a small sized yellow hold on a module. Wow I was quite surprised how dirty this hold was when I matched it. I put my feet together on 1 hold below me. From this position I had to clip the rope. It took me quite some effort and it felt impossible to rest. Quickly I continued to this hold on my shoulder, and to continue I had to put my right foot next to my right hand. And grabbing this intermediair hold to continue to a pinch. I managed to pinch it but it wasn’t enough. Too bad! What did I achieve? Nothing. No satisfaction at all, just frustration..

Only Jorg managed to advance to the semis and even to the finals and ended up 7th.

I recorded his climbing moments and put it online.

Jorg Verhoeven in the semis, WC Puurs 2011

Jorg Verhoeven in the finals, WC Puurs 2011

Counting my 2 half routes, which makes 1 total route it wasn’t enough to advance to the semis. The routes are set that well that each hold counts. In my situation, that meant 3 holds more and I would’ve got myself in the semis! I ended up 34th from all 45 climbers. A result to forget right away. Elko ended up 28th, Rachèl ended up 29th and Nikki 30th. The rest of the results are here.

The award ceremony at the end!

What I like about Worldcups, is to see the top climbers at work. They climb so well and it looks like they take a lot of risks. I could learn a lot from observing. It was just super to be there, despite my sucky climbing moments. There were lots of side events, slacklining, dyno-ing, enough to keep yourself busy when no one was climbing!

Usually I get a lot of energy and motivation to train after a Worldcup when I get back home. However, after this Worldcup I had a meeting at the jaw surgeon. That went well but because of the painkillers afterwards I felt like I was weak and therefore felt less motivated to train past month. And that resulted into laziness and didn’t want to keep my blog up to date. Anyway, I’m back and fixed my desktop and started to write like a maniac.

Meanwhile 2 Worldcups past by and team member Jorg competed in Boulder (USA) and ended up 5th. Well done Jorx! Below you’ll see an impressive video from this Worldcup at Boulder.

2011 IFSC Lead World Cup – Boulder

The other Worldcup took place 2 days ago at Amman, Jordania. None of Dutch people attended here though. No surprising results because the unbeatable Austrian Jakob Schubert managed to win again and the small Spanish Ramon Puigblanque received silver and the Japanese Sachi Amma got bronze.

I’ve decided to join the next Worldcup. It will take place within a week at Valence, which is about 1,5 hours south of Lyon in France.

Come week I’ll keep you up to date! You’ll be receiving more Worldcup news from me. I’m going to climb and enjoy this weekend! See you around.

After an invitation from Rachel from Facebook, we realised our plan and went climbing at Puurs Klimax together!

From Breda Yvonne and I were lucky enough to join Pascal, Mirthe and Viola. Unfortunately we got stuck in traffic jam on the highway E19. Finally after 2 hours of driving we arrived at the climbing venue.

The weather was super! When we arrived at the climbing gym, we weren’t the only Dutch crew. Another big group of Dutch people from Heerlen arrived early in the morning. They started climbing at 10 A.M. already. Bunch of die hard climbers! 10 minutes before we arrived, a few team members arrived as well: Nikki, Elko and Tabitha. In total we were with a group of 13 Dutch people in Belgium! We set a nice record on a regular Saturday right?

I changed clothes quick, ate a sandwich and started climbing! I believe it was about 28 degrees, however when I was climbing it felt way hotter. I didn’t have a concrete plan though. I just wanted to climb some hard routes through the roof. That went pretty well!

Climbing in Puurs is quite unique. It’s a different style, a style you definitely need to get used to. Most of the routes are challenging and getting harder at the end. Nonetheless it’s really cool to climb here, it’s a nice way to practice your clipping skills. Falling out of the roof is also something you have to get used to. I like it though, I don’t think about falling, which is good so I can focus on the route!

Mirthe took more photos than me, which is quite unusual. You can view her photos here.

Anyway, enough about Puurs. Here is my yesterday’s climbing ticklist: 6a, 6a, 6a, 7a, 7b+, 7c, attempt 8a, attempt 8a and ended with a 7a. I trained well and I’m sure I’m not the only one who felt good about it! I want to climb often at Puurs, the environment feels more comfortable though. It’s a good sign for the Worldcup Lead, which is pretty soon on my calendar!

We arrived late at night at our hotel Campagnola. The place is called Riva del Garda which is about 3 km away from Arco.

The hotel is quite nice. There weren’t many spots available to park our car, but there was plenty of space across the street.

Elko and I shared a room which was faced on the streets. Our room had three beds, wireless internet, a small fridge, airconditioning, tv and a balcony.

Below you’ll see a few photos.

After a night of rest, I made breakfast in the hotel lunchroom the following morning. Nikki and Ralf were already enjoying their breakfast, precisely at 9 AM. It will be a nice day for Nikki, she will climb her qualifications today. As usual her hair was set tight, not a single hair was lost. Probably it’s her competition style.

After breakfast Nikki checked some movies on her notebook and read a book in the backyard.

The backyard was really nice, we could enjoy table tennis, basketball, had a swimming pool, trampoline, you name it and we got it. A very relaxing and amusing area to spend our morning. At 1 PM we’re leaving together to the competition venue.

I was the driver the whole week. We had this huge car, a Fiat Doblo. It had a big trunk and 6 gears to shift, awesome right? I was being a taxi cab and drove us to the competition venue.

The competition venue was surrounded by gates. There were people everywhere from the organisation, checking up on competitors for their athletes card. Without that card, it was impossible to enter the area. Luckily no one forgot that card though.

Here are some photos of the venue.

Nikki’s personal experience about the world championships are available on her webpage. While Ralf was checking in the isolation area behind the wall, Elko, Tom and I were standing in front of the wall to encourage Nikki.

Later I ran into Jorg Kemner, photographer from our climbing federation.

On request he was present to shoot awesome photos from the lead competition. Team member Jorg Verhoeven was present as well. He’s going to join us with the lead competition yeah.

The next day it was our turn to climb. Elko had to start early. I was just a few climbers after him. I felt so psyched and couldn’t wait to climb! I took lots of time to prepare for my first route. I borrowed Nikki’s goggles to check on the holds. It’s so nice, because you’re quite far away from the wall. I didn’t know all the holds though, however I had a good feeling about my first route.

The isolation area was a gym, not far away from the competition wall. We’re able to warm up there. It felt like a cozy gym in no time. There was a small wall outdoors as well, bit more overhang. The sun was shining and most of the climbers were warming up inside.

After warming up I went outdoors again. Walking in this hot sun towards the isolation behind the wall. Ralf was there to check up on us. It was nice that he was around. Just 4 climbers before it was my turn. I still had some time to warm up. Probably I have to climb at the same time as team member Jorg.

Before I entered the wall, my eyes got a quick peek at the route. Okay I know what to do, now lets go!

I was quite confident when I started my route. It went well! No problems with clipping quickdraws, I like this.

The distance between the holds were getting bigger and I start to doubt for a second. Should I put my foot higher or not?

My right hand was half locked off however I couldn’t resume my movement anymore and slowly gravity was winning. Noooo, I was falling in slow motion out of the route!!

Grrrrr, why is this happening to me on a competition? Why didn’t this happen to me during a training? Within a few seconds I’m standing on the floor. No, I don’t need any help to untie the rope. I can do that myself.

What a lame action. It’s time to get out of here. Dramatic disappointment.

I’m trying to accept my situation in the isolation area. My stomach feels funny though. I need some time to get over this. While Jorg, Elko and Tom are going for a bite, I decided to stay behind in the isolation area. I’m eating another sandwich with ham and take a powernap. Then I’ll go outside to the wall to prepare the second route.

I have all the time of the world to prepare this route. After a while I see Ralf appearing behind the wall. He’s giving me a signal that I’m up soon.

Behind the wall I’m getting ready for my second route. I spot photographer Jorg high in the scaffold with a big lens. He’s raising his thumb!

I know I can do it. I think this route is more continuous. From the first movement, it’s my goal to climb a bit faster than usual.

The first 3 clips with right, next with left and then right again. Easier said than done though. I’m not even half way the route and it feels good. Every move feels good. And I’m going to this side hold. I don’t know why I didn’t get this hold on top though, but I grabbed this hold on the side. There was no edge there! Suddenly I fall out of the route, just like that!!

I can’t believe this, yet again I’m standing on the floor without pumpy arms. I’m looking at the hold where I just fell out of the route. Sigh.

After an hour I start accepting my situation. I just screwed up my first World Championships. But I should be glad to be here at Italy. Jorg however climbed really well and sent the first qualification. His second route went well too, just a few holds below the top. It’s enough to advance to the semis!

Friday it was time for the women’s semis and finals. During the semis I think Jain Kim was climbing very steady. She managed to climb high, highest hold of all the ladies!

The finals were in the evening.

I think the route was nice but the end just sucked. There was a dyno in there, where everyone fell out of the route except one lady. Such a pity though. It shouldn’t be like that.

I think the women’s finals should be a route worth fighting for and they should get pumpy. Setting a dyno in a route, 20 holds before the end is just lame. Well that’s my opinion.

On the same day we went to the Garda lake. The sun was shining and it was nice to get a tan.

Chocolate brown yeah! It was nice to enjoy the environment and relax.

Saturday Elko and Nikki wanted to climb at Bolzano, because the Swiss team were climbing there as well. The semis starts at half past 4 in the afternoon. Without a driver my team members couldn’t go climbing. I tagged along and drove to Bolzano. It’s about an hour driving to get to the venue. We wanted to be there on time so we skipped our lunch. On our way to the venue, Nikki shared cookies which was nice when you feel hungry however not energizing for me. Our drive took us 2,5 hours because we got in a traffic jam!! We got lost at Bolzano as well. Fortunately Elko spotted a Salewa building and we managed to get there.

My plan was to climb some with Katherine Choong, but she was playing hard to get. Oh well, climbing with someone else from the Swiss team was nice as well. I didn’t climb more than 5 routes that day, my stomach was just too empty. Elko and Nikki climbed a lot though. I think this gym at Bolzano has nice routes!

We left at quarter past 5 and our goal was to support Jorg in his semis. He’ll climb at 6 PM. Unfortunately our ride back took us longer than expected. Again we got in a terrible traffic jam. I didn’t have time for this and had to anticipate while being stuck in a trafficjam. I could have gotten a ticket for my actions though, driving on the spare lane to escape the traffic jam and driving against traffic wasn’t a problem at all. The police was there to point us where we should drive. Due to this traffic jam we missed the semis. We ended up ordering a mix pizza in a restaurant. We enjoyed our pizza’s in our car. Such a horrible day for me, hopefully we’ll still make it back in time to witness the men’s finals!

With some luck, we made it just on time to witness the finals. We had enough time to get an icecream downtown.

Frits and Abel spotted us when we were back at the competition venue! Abel informed me about the finals. I didn’t even know who advanced to the finals. Unfortunately Jorg was not in it…The men’s finals had a nice route. I got sweaty hands by just looking at it! The small strong Spanish guy, Ramon, sent every route and won the finals. Very nice to see how strong he is during the finals!

On Sunday there was the Arco Rock Masters on the same competition wall. With different routes, only the best climbers were able to enjoy the routes. Two identical routes, set for duel climbing. Rules were easy, the first one to send the route without falling, wins and advances to the next round.

Again it was nice to see the first few climbers, but at some point it got bored. Except the finals, it went so fast and it was so exciting. Eventually Adam Ondra won this competition, Thomas Tauporn got second and Jakob Schubert was third in this event. The fastest time was set by Cedric Lachat. Really nice performances! The women’s results was surprising. A Russion woman Yana Chereshneva won and Johanna Ernst got second and the blonde Sasha DiGiulian ended up third.

The results can be found here.

Anyway, I enjoyed my time in Italy.

I had mixed emotions during my first World Championships. At this very moment I do feel exhausted, weak and tired. Lately I have been training irregular. I want to train on fixed days again. For now I’ll be back in The Netherlands for a while to fight gravity. It’s hard without rocks though, but I have enough time to prepare form y next international lead competition which will take place at Puurs end of September!

More photos will be available on my Facebook page!

This morning coach Wally gave me a quick call to wish me good luck and a safe flight. Right after that call, I entered Utrecht central. There was an announcement: No trains to Schiphol!

No need to panic though. I suddenly ran into team member Elko. He also got stuck here and together we travelled by cab to the Airport. A cab driver of large stature with a Mercedes, offered a ride for 100 bucks. His standard was usually set to 120 to the airport. With my awesome social skills, we could set a fixed price: 90 euros.

On the highway there was a lot of traffic jam!! Our driver took a shortcut and drove through small villages. Unfortunately we got stuck there as well. 2 lanes were closed! It was a race against the clock.

In the car I check my paper work. It was time to make a backup plan in case we would miss our flight. Nikki was already at the airport and got herself checked in. At quarter past 12 we still had to drive 3 km. We’re sure we’d miss this flight from 12.30.

5 minutes later we got confirmation at the check-in. The stewards sent us to the Ticket office. We were too late for our flight and had to rebook a new flight. Well now that is finished, however we’re still not sure if we have seats on the next flight at 16.15. If that one is full as well, then we’ll definitely have a seat on the next flight, which departures at 19.00h.

We passed the metal detectors, had lunch and we still have to wait for another hour.

At the gate we will be updated about our seats. Hopefully we can catch our flight today. Wish me luck!

Update: 17:45
At 16.15 Elko and I were waiting in front of the gate. I handed over my boarding pass to the stewards and had to wait patiently. We were still unsure whether we could tag along with this flight.

15 minutes later they announced us that there are probably no more seats available. I aksen about oer opportuniteit and the timetable of the net light. The stewards suggested us to take a seat and wait. I observed the stewards walking back and forth in the hallway to look for the final passengers. We witnessed how busy they were communicating with their walky talkies.

There was this Italian next to me, also listed on the waiting list. He could join this flight. Elko and I didn’t feel like waiting any longer at Schiphol airport. Then we got surprised by the steward! While we were patiently waiting, the steward raised 2 thumbs up in the air to us. That meant green light for the flight. 2 other passengers didn’t show up and we could substitute their seats. Oh yeah!

Fortunately we could finally go on board. We’ll arrive at half past 6 at Milano. And then we’ll have to drive about 3 hours to Arco, the place to be for the World championships!

Update: 23.30
We arrived safely at Milano. Fortunately I managed to pick up my luggage quick.

And then we rented a huge car to drive to Arco without any navigation. Luckily I prepared well this morning and printed the route from Milano to our hotel at Riva del Garda.

At 21.00h we stopped at Sola to have a quick dinner. We ended up in this super nice restaurant and ordered delicious pasta!

At half past 11 we arrived at the hotel. Ralf – sport coordinator – received us well and informed us about our startnumbers.

Tomorrow the ladies will start with their qualifications. Nikki will start in group A. In her first route she will start as 5th and second route as 25th! You can see her climbing on the webcam which will start from 15.00h!

Come Thursday the men’s will start their qualifications. Elko and I are both in group A. Elko will start 8th in his first route and 43rd in his second route whereas I will start 46th in my first route and 12th in my second route. Surprisingly Jorg will also compete and he will arrive tomorrow at Arco. He’s in group B and starts 13th in his first route and 82nd in his second route.

Anyway, we’re going to rock this competition! Goodnight to you all.

Hi internet friends. Check my countdown for the worldcup Lead at Chamonix!

Just another day to go, I’m so psyched!! Weekend mode off – competition mode on! Team member Elko Schellingerhout and I will fly on Monday July 11th to Geneve and then travel to Chamonix. The kickoff for the Lead season will take place in this nice venue.

Startlist of the competition can be found here.

I will pick up my startnumber during the technical meeting on Monday. Tuesday I’ll be climbing the qualification between 09.:30 and 4 P.M.

Want to see Elko and me climbing? Check out the webcam for live streaming. I’ll keep you guys up to date!

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