Posts Tagged ‘Puurs’

I slept well. I’m taking a hot shower in the morning and get myself ready to leave to the competition. I check my bags and leave everything I won’t need at the hotel. Alright, it’s time to get some breakfast.

I run down the stairs and enter the restaurant part. Nikki already started her breakfast. I’m going to pick a nice chocolate bun, some muesli, yogurt and grab myself a cup of tea.

Wouter and Tim are joining us and we’re having a nice breakfast together. After breakfast we’re driving to the venue. At the climbing gym it seems pretty crowded. When I check in, I receive a start number and a lunch bag. Many climbers are warming up already and there are televisions and computers to observe the demonstration of the qualifications.

I’m going to check the competition wall outside. My attention goes to the 2nd qualification route, which is the black route at the right side of the wall. I’m looking around and notice that Jorg and Elko are present as well. I’m looking at the holds with Jorg and together we’re figuring out the right sequence. It looks pretty nice. There are lots of big holds with many footholds.

I’m going to warm up inside and traverse horizontal on the wall. I feel like climbing some routes and put on my harness. None of my team members is wearing a harness. Perhaps one of the Austrian team members would like to belay me. Jakob Schubert is cool and he’s willing to belay me, how nice of him.

Wally is trying to get my attention and together we’re observing how David Lama is climbing the 2nd qualification route. I have little time left to warm up. I should get pumped in a route but there is no time. It’s my turn to climb my first qualification route.

I’m sitting on a chair in front of the route, waiting until it’s my turn to climb. Monique Stuut, an official judge, is standing in front of me. She checks up on my tag and I can sense her staring at me. All I can think about now is the route and its movements.

The route is quite nice until I get to this undercling. My left arm is getting pumped! I have to climb to the right and barely fix this hold. I need to match my left hand and I’m going to make a heel hook with my left foot. Then I have to jump to this big hold on my right. It feels pretty heavy. I’m going for it but unfortunately I can’t control the swing. I’m back on the floor, my left arm feels pumped and my right arm isn’t pumped. It was a hard movement there. I should’ve warmed up properly.

It’s time to digest some food. I’m going to eat a Powerbar and a currant bun and drink lots of water. In the mean time I’m encouring my team members but they are having the same problem and are not able to pass those movements. I’m concentrating on my second qualification route. It’s a yellow route and it looks quite technical. I believe you should climb this route with control, there is no room for mistakes.

I’m trying to memorize the route and talk to Wouter about the first crux. The placement of your hands on a volume is important. I need to lock off my arm on this volume in order to continue and reach the next hold. I’m going to warm up again and traverse horizontal on the wall.

Route demonstration on tv

Soon it’s my turn again. I’m wiping my shoes on my pants before I enter the wall. I chalk my hands and look at the route one more time. The route is set for me. I feel quite relaxed when I climb. At the moment my only goal is to last longer than my first route. It seems to work, I concentrate on the next few holds and shake my arms. I should enjoy this route, sometimes I forget about that during a competition. It will be all fine. Once again I get to an undercling, I can rest well in this position and shake my arms. I know the next few movements are pretty tough because I’ve seen others fall out of the route at this point. I’m going for the next hold, then match with my left hand. Now continue with my right hand again to this hold which is very positive. I have to go to the left, the next hold is pretty far away and I’m trying to grab this small hold with my left hand. It is too small and I have to abort my movement to the left. I’m falling out of the route! Darn, I wasn’t even able to fight in this route. What a bummer, it went so nice! When I’m on the floor, I look upon the wall. What is going on? This is not enough to get me to the finals.

When I change my clothes I receive a text message from Timo Tak. Well done, with some luck you might make it to the semis! I was a bit surprised, how is that possible? I didn’t climb that much and yet there is a chance to advance to the semis.

It’s only a matter of time until the rest of the climbers are finished. The end result was a 23rd place for me. 26 people are going to the semis and I’m one of them! Hahah awesome!

Judges calculating end results

Qualification results

I’ll have another chance to prove myself on Saturday. My first semis will be at Puurs. Hopefully I’m able to climb much better than today.

My phone is vibrating in my pocket when I was at work. Thursday morning I received a text message from Wally. He requested if I could leave the big team suitcase at home due to little space in our rental car. No problem Wally, I still had to pack my stuff anyway.

At noon I was done at work and wish my colleagues a good day. I’m on my way to Eindhoven to pack my stuff. When I arrive at home, I need to find myself a bag which is good enough for 2 days at Belgium. I found a nice bag which I haven’t used yet.
First I pack my orange Falcon competition shoes. Then I’ll look for the rest of my climbing gear and grab 2 team shirts and some clothes. I’ll bring my notebook too, perhaps I’ll have internet access at my hotel. I’m nearly finished, all I had to do was updating my ipod with some new beats.

At half past 3 I was done packing and peddled my way to Monk. I was in time. At the parking lot I spot a new small car, a Peugeot 107. Hmm, this should be our rental car that Wally was talking about. I park my bike at Monk and try to find Wally. He is having a training session with Vera.
Meanwhile Nikki arrived too. She brought the huge team suitcase and another bag with her. I wonder what she packed with her, we’re only gone for 2 days. Anyway, she’s a woman and I suppose she needs a lot of stuff.

We’re trying to fit all our luggage in this car on the parking lot. It nearly fits in the car.

Our hotel is booked at Mechelen. Thanks to our navigation we could easily locate the hotel.

I leave my luggage at the hotel and we’re on our way to the center for a restaurant. We are going to meet the Austrian team. Their description of the restaurant: it’s near a church and the restaurant is called De Met.

Well for your info, Mechelen has a lot of churches and sometimes I felt like we were lost because we exploring around the wrong church. I was surprised that the neighbourhood looked nice, because sometimes Belgium can be really ugly.

We asked 2 random guys if they knew about the restaurant. After 10 minutes we finally found it. The restaurant was indeed located in front of a church…

We entered the restaurant and the Austrian team was already seated at a long table. Jorg was somewhere in between among the Austrian team. Wally, Nikki and I ordered dinner and suprisingly we got served first. What a service. I had a nice cutlet for dinner, actually it was a bit too much but I didn’t mind.

After dinner we went back to the hotel. Team member Tim Reuser will join us in the evening. At the hotel Wally was trying to find out our start number. There was internet available but we had to pay for it. We found another solution. Wally called a few people in his network and found out our start number. My start number was 26 and 7. The rest of the Dutch people will climb after me. I won’t worry about it too much, because the routes are flash anyway.

Well, tomorrow we’ll have breakfast at half past 8 and it’s time to get some rest. See you later.

The Flanders World Cup Puurs is the fourth manche of the World Cup Championship 2010. Come Friday will be my second Worldcup competition. It will be held in Belgium.

Below you’ll see the provisional program of the worldcup:

Thursday 23rd September 2010
17:30 Internal meeting IFSC officials, routesetters, judges and Worldcup organization: Place: Climbing hall KLIMAX (Competition venue)
18:30 – 20:00 Confirmation of registered competitors (Place: Climbing hall KLIMAX (Competition venue).
20:00 Technical Meeting (Place: Climbing hall KLIMAX (Competition venue).

Friday 24th September 2010
08:30 Reconfirmation of the registered competitors and opening of the warming-up zone
10:00 End of reconfirmation of the registered competitors1
11:00 Start Qualification men and women (estimated duration till 17hrs)

Saturday 25th September 2010
08:30 Opening Isolation Semifinals round men and women
09:45 Closing isolation Semifinal round men and women
10:20 Observation men
10:30 Observation women
10:45 Start Semifinals men and women
11:00 to 14:00 Registration Dyno world record contest
14:30 Dyno world record contest
15:00 Isolation zone closed for Finals
16:00 Award ceremony Dyno world record contest
17:10 Presentation finalists and observation Final round men and women
17:30 Start Final round (first women, then men)
19:30 Award Ceremony
20:00 Free Diner for competitors/coaches, offered by the organizing federation
21:30 The one and only Goldfinger Party

You can find the start list here. Shortly before the start of the qualifications (on Friday the 24 of september) a startlist will be published. It will be possible to follow the competition by live streaming. To check out livestream, click here.

Top Climbing Holland joined me for a day of climbing. Or should I say I joined TopCH. Oh well, most of them are my team members anyway. Together with Elko, Tim, Bob, Nikki and Lisa we went climbing at Klimax Puurs.

About 1 PM we arrived at the climbing gym. It was so quiet, nearly no one around!

I wanted to climb a lot of routes so I got myself ready.

Ready to climb

Nikki van Bergen

Bob Schubert

Elko Schellingerhout

Tim Reuser

Dad & Lisa Berends

Tim Reuser

Nikki’s parents



After 5 hours of climbing we were done climbing. This was a nice training session for September. I’ll return to compete in the Worldcup which will be held in this climbing gym. We didn’t climb all the routes though, however we climbed lots of routes.

TopCH, I hope you enjoyed climbing with me. Thanks and see you soon.

It is Saturday and my alarm went off. It was early but fortunately I prepared my rucksack the day before. Today we went to climbing gym Klimax at Belgium.

On my way to our meeting point at Eindhoven, I dropped by at a supermarket to get myself breakfast and lunch. I was in the supermarket and bought some gingerbread, some currant buns and bananas. Then I went to a gas station where I would join Tabitha Buma.

Far away I saw a big van parked at the gas station. Kim got out of the van and waved at me. I parked my bike nearby and entered the Buma van. It contained hot plates, a table and a bunk-bed.

An hour later we finally reached our venue. It looks like there was a competition going on, however coach Wouter already arranged that we were still able to climb outdoors.

After a short briefing by coach Wouter, our training was meant to simulate a competition. It is important to know how to prepare a competition. How do you warm up properly in a limited isolation area, how do you mentally prepare yourself, how do you prepare your route? Everyone had different goals.

Then we started to get ourselves ready. I went to the isolation area to warm up. Meanwhile Wouter and Kim picked a few routes for our simulation competition. They picked a blue route for me, which was quite long and all the way through the roof. Everyone had their own route and it was up to us to climb it onsight.

Wouter and Kim observed everyone. They shared their opinions about how to improve ourselves and how long we were actually climbing. That was nice to know.

We still had 1,5 hours left to climb routes. I managed to climb 4 routes until we went back home.

It was a super sunny day. Climbing gym Klimax is nice location to train outdoors with the lead team. I have had a nice time and it motivates me to climb with a team. See you next time again!

I’m going to train with the lead team at climbing gym Klimax at Puurs (BE). What do I pack in my rucksack? I pack my harness, climbing shoes, chalk bag, team clothing, a few Powerbars / enough food and drinks with me. I peddle my way to the CTO house of Vera Zijlstra and Elko Schellingerhout to join them.

On our way to Puurs we listen to awesome classic songs on the radio.

After 2,5 hours of driving we finally arrive at climbing gym Klimax. It was windy but I was well prepared.

While Vera is sorting out her rope, Elko and me are warming up in some routes.

30 Minutes later coach Wally, Nikki van Bergen and Teun Keusters enters the climbing gym. They were stuck in traffic jam.

Coach Wally is showing off his boulderskills in the roof. Teun picks a different route and also climbs in the roof.

Coach Wally shared a few targets. One of them was climbing at least 10 routes today. Within 3 hours I managed to achieve my target.

After 4 hours of climbing we decided to pack our stuff and go home.

Vera let me drive on the way back.

To end our day we decided to go out for dinner at Eindhoven. It was a nice training day!

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