Posts Tagged ‘photos’

This week I was really looking forward to the annual Dust 2012 event!

I recovered quite well from the 100% boulders event from last week. It was a good training session. This week I didn’t climb 5 times a week but just two times. This morning I woke up and ate some grapes and a sandwich before it was time to peddle my way to Monk Bouldergym.

I arrived just on time and said hello to Teun Keusters, Ulf Lennertz, Daan Groskamp and Vera Zijlstra. It was fun to hang around. Not much later Vera unlocked the CTO area where I changed my clothes and got ready to rumble.

Today I figured it was fun to solve boulder problems with Vera. Most of the time she could catch up with me pretty well. We used my topo guide and climbed like maniacs.

Luckily I managed to flash some hard problems, saving me some skin for the rest of the boulders. Actually I was quite proud of myself whenever that happened haha. Every small success should be celebrated.

I didn’t have any tactics today. I knew it was quite hard to go for the best 8 problems so I set my mind to climb as much as possible. It was my only goal for today. Climb until I’m out of time!

Vera quit a bit earlier but I kept going on. I didn’t have much skin problems. More or less my feet started to hurt from wearing the awesome Boreal Kintaro so long.

Anyway, later I ran into photographer Tom Doms. He wanted to take a few shots and you’ll see the photos in this story as I’m writing it. I was finishing up the easy set problems in my last hour. Sometimes I was just staring at the wall, because it was so ‘Dusty’.

In my last hour I still had to finish about 31 problems. About 10 problems were easy problems and the rest were 7a or harder. Vera was filling in my problems and supported me, thanks for that!

In my last problem I felt a bit tired. It was a black problem on the competition wall. I had to put a lot of effort in this one. I almost fell out of the problem however I didn’t want to give up and try it again. I just needed to put my left foot next to my left hand and stand up. Yeah I managed to do it and sent it! Awesome!

According to my topo guide, I climbed 76 problems out of 90. Tired but satisfied about my performance!

I remember I climbed 80 problems last year, so I was hoping it was enough in my category. I handed in my score form and went to do some groceries. 30 minutes later I received a text message from Vera that the price ceremony had already began! I was warming up some soup and haven’t started yet. Oh well, I got to hurry and peddled back to Monk Bouldergym.

Pheeew, I was just in time for the price ceremony. They started to hand out prizes for several categories. I was waiting for the category: Male most climbed boulders. And finally Joris Klinkenbijl started with number 3: Tim Reuser. I knew he climbed 74. 2nd was Elko Schellingerhout, he climbed 75 problems. Nr 1: Truong Ngo. Hey that’s me! Yeah! I climbed 76 problems, woooow that was a close call. I received 7 bags of Moon chalk. Thank you Dust 2012. You can find the rest of the results here.

More photos of Tom will be soon available on his Facebookpage.

It’s time to get some rest. I had oodles of fun climbing the problems. I’ll climb the rest in my spare time. So see you around at Monk!

This morning I set my alarm at 6 o’clock but I couldn’t get up on time. I suppose to leave at 6.30h, so I would’ve some spare time for my trip to Schiphol airport, but unfortunately I slept late. I left at 7 o’clock and arrived one hour later at Schiphol.

Fortunately I didn’t have any delay. At the airport I ran into team member Nikki, she was there on time. Team member Elko arrived soon and we’re complete. Checking in went well. This dude at the metal detector checked up on me. I had to open up my bags, but there was nothing dangerous inside my bag. He was just checking out my gadgets, I think he’s jealous at my camera!

The flight to Zurich was nice. I received swiss chocolate during the flight.

It was so delicious, I craved for more. I managed to score some more chocolates with my pure awesomeness at the end of the flight.

We could spend 1 hour at the airport. While Nikki and Elko were busy with their notebooks, I explored the airport. It was quite fun because I could try some fine chocolate sweets. I enjoyed it a lot.

So if you ever have time left at Zurich airport, I suggest you to walk around and you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.

At Zurich, Mathilde and her mom from Sweden joined us. They booked the same flight to Lyon.

When we arrived at Lyon, it was up to fix a rental car.

I booked a small car before, however it was meant for 3 persons. We were with the 5 of us and luckily they had a bigger car available on their parking lot.

We fit well in the car, including our luggage. It took us 2 hours to get to Valence. We managed to get on time at the climbing gym for the registration without navigation.

First we parked our car in the same street of the hotel and checked in. It’s a ** hotel and it’s about 15 minutes by foot to the climbing gym.

To be honest, I’ve seen better hotels in my life. Anyway, I’ll just stay here for a few days!

Next we went downtown to grab a bite. It was already 6.30 P.M. Most of the restaurants open from 7 P.M. We had to hurry because we wanted to be on time for the technical meeting from 7.30 P.M. We ended up in an average restaurant where we got served pretty fast. I ordered entrecote nature avec pomme et salad. Too bad I didn’t have ketchup with my fries. The meat was nice though.

I was too hungry so it was okay I suppose. Nikki picked lasagna and Elko had pizza.

We were on time at the technical meeting. There’s nothing special according the officials.

Nikki will start 7th in her first route and 23rd in her second route. Elko will start 6th in his first route and 28th in his second route. I’ll start 38th in my first route and 16th in my second route.

The programme remains the same. After this meeting we had some desserts to end our long journey. We visited this restaurant near our hotel.

It was super delicious. We’ll definitely return to his restaurant for a meal. After our dessert we went back to our hotel.

That’s it for now. I’m tired and I’m going to sleep because I have to wake up early. Goodnight to everyone and greetings from Valence, France!

Hey everyone!

I almost forgot I was having a webpage! Anyway, I have a major update from Worldcup Puurs. I’m too late with this update, because the event was about a month ago.

Thursday 29th of September, Wally, Nikki and I left from Eindhoven to Belgium. We drove in a Volkswagen, which somewhat had more legspace than the prior small Peugeot 107 from last year. It accelerated pretty well, using 6 shifts and we had the luxury of airconditioning!

It was quite necessary though, the weather was superb. It was quite unusual to have such a weather at the end of September but I really enjoyed it. I had a bag full of stuff with me, whereas Nikki brought a big suitcase plus a big bag with her. It looked like she had packed for 3 weeks, while we suppose to leave for just 2 days from home.

On our way we got stuck in traffic jam, but not that long. It took us 30 minutes longer than usual and then arrived at our hotel at Mechelen. Our hotel was situated in a side street of the main market.

After checking in, we dropped our luggage in our rooms and went for a bite. It was already 7.30 in the P.M.

During dinner Wally managed to register us at the technical meeting. While we’re waiting for dinner, team member Jorg joined our table. He finally arrived after a long journey.

Later that evening fysio Tom arrived as well. He took care of us before we went to bed. Jorg and I shared a hotel room, next to our room was Nikki´s room.

Wally and Tom shared a room on another floor.

Before I went to sleep, I flipped some channels on tv. There was nothing interesting on. Jorg took control of the remote and we watched Jersey Shore on MTV. A nice episode to end this evening though.

In the morning we´re suppose to meet at 9 for breakfast. From the first floor I took the stairs down, because I expected there was a breakfast room on the main floor. But I forgot I was in Belgium, so they pointed me towards the 3rd floor for a breakfast room.

Hmm, quite logical right?

After breakfast we left to the climbing gym.

Once we arrived team member Elko Schellingerhout and Rachèl Nilwik were present too. I tried to figure out which route was my first route. There was a black route on the right and a yellow route on the left. I focused on the black route. It looked nice, but in the roof it was set impossible.

Inside I warmed up with Jorg.

He started with a 7c as warm up, makes you get a good flashpump. That’s a nice way to prepare for a competition route. On the startlist I was next after Jorg. It was a matter of counting down the minutes.

Once in a while I kept myself moving by traversing on the wall. I watched a video of the qualifications. There was a small room available where demos of the qualifications were projected non stop on the wall.

After 2 times you get so bored and walk away.

It was nearly my turn. I went outside, gave the route a quick peek and was ready to climb. Once I left the ground, it was a matter of going all out to the next hold. At the first module there was an undercling which you had to match, I zipped and almost fell out of the route but I managed to focus well and kept my body close to the wall. My feet went back in the wall on the holds and continued. Matching this sloper hold was exciting but I managed well. Then I arrived at this big volume, just below the roof. I could rest for a bit but not for long. When I continued to a pinch, I tried to put my left foot next to my left hand. I couldn’t match it somehow and I was convinced I could do this. I was unable to put my foot so high and fell out of the route. Bummer, it didn’t work! What did I do wrong? I wasn’t pumped or tired. Later I saw another hold in the roof and if you grab that hold with your left hand, then it was possible to swing your foot on top of the module. It was so stupid of me to forget about this hold, I didn’t even see it!

After the route I could get an arm massage. CTO fysio Tessa was present as well. I picked Tom, I believe he can pinch harder and that was just what I needed at that moment.

The second route was a yellow route. I just saw Elko climbing and falling. It was a crux from this intermediair hold to a pinch. Unfortunately his route ended at this point and stood back on the ground. After 2 hours it was my turn in this route. Again Jorg was first and he climbed pretty well in this route! Good enough to advance to the semis. I looked at the start and saw it was annoying. There was a foothold just below the starting hold, so you had to go dynamic and crossover at the first movement. It was dirty but I managed to do that. Carefully I matched a big sized hold and swung my feet to the other side and continued on this grey module. This module was quite dirty but I had to use it. Then I had to put my left foot high on the module and conduct a insecure jump to the next small hold. The next hold was quite far. I had to put my left foot high on this grey module and go dynamic. There were lots of annoying movements in this route where I felt I could barely reach it. It didn’t stop, again going dynamic to a small sized yellow hold on a module. Wow I was quite surprised how dirty this hold was when I matched it. I put my feet together on 1 hold below me. From this position I had to clip the rope. It took me quite some effort and it felt impossible to rest. Quickly I continued to this hold on my shoulder, and to continue I had to put my right foot next to my right hand. And grabbing this intermediair hold to continue to a pinch. I managed to pinch it but it wasn’t enough. Too bad! What did I achieve? Nothing. No satisfaction at all, just frustration..

Only Jorg managed to advance to the semis and even to the finals and ended up 7th.

I recorded his climbing moments and put it online.

Jorg Verhoeven in the semis, WC Puurs 2011

Jorg Verhoeven in the finals, WC Puurs 2011

Counting my 2 half routes, which makes 1 total route it wasn’t enough to advance to the semis. The routes are set that well that each hold counts. In my situation, that meant 3 holds more and I would’ve got myself in the semis! I ended up 34th from all 45 climbers. A result to forget right away. Elko ended up 28th, Rachèl ended up 29th and Nikki 30th. The rest of the results are here.

The award ceremony at the end!

What I like about Worldcups, is to see the top climbers at work. They climb so well and it looks like they take a lot of risks. I could learn a lot from observing. It was just super to be there, despite my sucky climbing moments. There were lots of side events, slacklining, dyno-ing, enough to keep yourself busy when no one was climbing!

Usually I get a lot of energy and motivation to train after a Worldcup when I get back home. However, after this Worldcup I had a meeting at the jaw surgeon. That went well but because of the painkillers afterwards I felt like I was weak and therefore felt less motivated to train past month. And that resulted into laziness and didn’t want to keep my blog up to date. Anyway, I’m back and fixed my desktop and started to write like a maniac.

Meanwhile 2 Worldcups past by and team member Jorg competed in Boulder (USA) and ended up 5th. Well done Jorx! Below you’ll see an impressive video from this Worldcup at Boulder.

2011 IFSC Lead World Cup – Boulder

The other Worldcup took place 2 days ago at Amman, Jordania. None of Dutch people attended here though. No surprising results because the unbeatable Austrian Jakob Schubert managed to win again and the small Spanish Ramon Puigblanque received silver and the Japanese Sachi Amma got bronze.

I’ve decided to join the next Worldcup. It will take place within a week at Valence, which is about 1,5 hours south of Lyon in France.

Come week I’ll keep you up to date! You’ll be receiving more Worldcup news from me. I’m going to climb and enjoy this weekend! See you around.

We arrived late at night at our hotel Campagnola. The place is called Riva del Garda which is about 3 km away from Arco.

The hotel is quite nice. There weren’t many spots available to park our car, but there was plenty of space across the street.

Elko and I shared a room which was faced on the streets. Our room had three beds, wireless internet, a small fridge, airconditioning, tv and a balcony.

Below you’ll see a few photos.

After a night of rest, I made breakfast in the hotel lunchroom the following morning. Nikki and Ralf were already enjoying their breakfast, precisely at 9 AM. It will be a nice day for Nikki, she will climb her qualifications today. As usual her hair was set tight, not a single hair was lost. Probably it’s her competition style.

After breakfast Nikki checked some movies on her notebook and read a book in the backyard.

The backyard was really nice, we could enjoy table tennis, basketball, had a swimming pool, trampoline, you name it and we got it. A very relaxing and amusing area to spend our morning. At 1 PM we’re leaving together to the competition venue.

I was the driver the whole week. We had this huge car, a Fiat Doblo. It had a big trunk and 6 gears to shift, awesome right? I was being a taxi cab and drove us to the competition venue.

The competition venue was surrounded by gates. There were people everywhere from the organisation, checking up on competitors for their athletes card. Without that card, it was impossible to enter the area. Luckily no one forgot that card though.

Here are some photos of the venue.

Nikki’s personal experience about the world championships are available on her webpage. While Ralf was checking in the isolation area behind the wall, Elko, Tom and I were standing in front of the wall to encourage Nikki.

Later I ran into Jorg Kemner, photographer from our climbing federation.

On request he was present to shoot awesome photos from the lead competition. Team member Jorg Verhoeven was present as well. He’s going to join us with the lead competition yeah.

The next day it was our turn to climb. Elko had to start early. I was just a few climbers after him. I felt so psyched and couldn’t wait to climb! I took lots of time to prepare for my first route. I borrowed Nikki’s goggles to check on the holds. It’s so nice, because you’re quite far away from the wall. I didn’t know all the holds though, however I had a good feeling about my first route.

The isolation area was a gym, not far away from the competition wall. We’re able to warm up there. It felt like a cozy gym in no time. There was a small wall outdoors as well, bit more overhang. The sun was shining and most of the climbers were warming up inside.

After warming up I went outdoors again. Walking in this hot sun towards the isolation behind the wall. Ralf was there to check up on us. It was nice that he was around. Just 4 climbers before it was my turn. I still had some time to warm up. Probably I have to climb at the same time as team member Jorg.

Before I entered the wall, my eyes got a quick peek at the route. Okay I know what to do, now lets go!

I was quite confident when I started my route. It went well! No problems with clipping quickdraws, I like this.

The distance between the holds were getting bigger and I start to doubt for a second. Should I put my foot higher or not?

My right hand was half locked off however I couldn’t resume my movement anymore and slowly gravity was winning. Noooo, I was falling in slow motion out of the route!!

Grrrrr, why is this happening to me on a competition? Why didn’t this happen to me during a training? Within a few seconds I’m standing on the floor. No, I don’t need any help to untie the rope. I can do that myself.

What a lame action. It’s time to get out of here. Dramatic disappointment.

I’m trying to accept my situation in the isolation area. My stomach feels funny though. I need some time to get over this. While Jorg, Elko and Tom are going for a bite, I decided to stay behind in the isolation area. I’m eating another sandwich with ham and take a powernap. Then I’ll go outside to the wall to prepare the second route.

I have all the time of the world to prepare this route. After a while I see Ralf appearing behind the wall. He’s giving me a signal that I’m up soon.

Behind the wall I’m getting ready for my second route. I spot photographer Jorg high in the scaffold with a big lens. He’s raising his thumb!

I know I can do it. I think this route is more continuous. From the first movement, it’s my goal to climb a bit faster than usual.

The first 3 clips with right, next with left and then right again. Easier said than done though. I’m not even half way the route and it feels good. Every move feels good. And I’m going to this side hold. I don’t know why I didn’t get this hold on top though, but I grabbed this hold on the side. There was no edge there! Suddenly I fall out of the route, just like that!!

I can’t believe this, yet again I’m standing on the floor without pumpy arms. I’m looking at the hold where I just fell out of the route. Sigh.

After an hour I start accepting my situation. I just screwed up my first World Championships. But I should be glad to be here at Italy. Jorg however climbed really well and sent the first qualification. His second route went well too, just a few holds below the top. It’s enough to advance to the semis!

Friday it was time for the women’s semis and finals. During the semis I think Jain Kim was climbing very steady. She managed to climb high, highest hold of all the ladies!

The finals were in the evening.

I think the route was nice but the end just sucked. There was a dyno in there, where everyone fell out of the route except one lady. Such a pity though. It shouldn’t be like that.

I think the women’s finals should be a route worth fighting for and they should get pumpy. Setting a dyno in a route, 20 holds before the end is just lame. Well that’s my opinion.

On the same day we went to the Garda lake. The sun was shining and it was nice to get a tan.

Chocolate brown yeah! It was nice to enjoy the environment and relax.

Saturday Elko and Nikki wanted to climb at Bolzano, because the Swiss team were climbing there as well. The semis starts at half past 4 in the afternoon. Without a driver my team members couldn’t go climbing. I tagged along and drove to Bolzano. It’s about an hour driving to get to the venue. We wanted to be there on time so we skipped our lunch. On our way to the venue, Nikki shared cookies which was nice when you feel hungry however not energizing for me. Our drive took us 2,5 hours because we got in a traffic jam!! We got lost at Bolzano as well. Fortunately Elko spotted a Salewa building and we managed to get there.

My plan was to climb some with Katherine Choong, but she was playing hard to get. Oh well, climbing with someone else from the Swiss team was nice as well. I didn’t climb more than 5 routes that day, my stomach was just too empty. Elko and Nikki climbed a lot though. I think this gym at Bolzano has nice routes!

We left at quarter past 5 and our goal was to support Jorg in his semis. He’ll climb at 6 PM. Unfortunately our ride back took us longer than expected. Again we got in a terrible traffic jam. I didn’t have time for this and had to anticipate while being stuck in a trafficjam. I could have gotten a ticket for my actions though, driving on the spare lane to escape the traffic jam and driving against traffic wasn’t a problem at all. The police was there to point us where we should drive. Due to this traffic jam we missed the semis. We ended up ordering a mix pizza in a restaurant. We enjoyed our pizza’s in our car. Such a horrible day for me, hopefully we’ll still make it back in time to witness the men’s finals!

With some luck, we made it just on time to witness the finals. We had enough time to get an icecream downtown.

Frits and Abel spotted us when we were back at the competition venue! Abel informed me about the finals. I didn’t even know who advanced to the finals. Unfortunately Jorg was not in it…The men’s finals had a nice route. I got sweaty hands by just looking at it! The small strong Spanish guy, Ramon, sent every route and won the finals. Very nice to see how strong he is during the finals!

On Sunday there was the Arco Rock Masters on the same competition wall. With different routes, only the best climbers were able to enjoy the routes. Two identical routes, set for duel climbing. Rules were easy, the first one to send the route without falling, wins and advances to the next round.

Again it was nice to see the first few climbers, but at some point it got bored. Except the finals, it went so fast and it was so exciting. Eventually Adam Ondra won this competition, Thomas Tauporn got second and Jakob Schubert was third in this event. The fastest time was set by Cedric Lachat. Really nice performances! The women’s results was surprising. A Russion woman Yana Chereshneva won and Johanna Ernst got second and the blonde Sasha DiGiulian ended up third.

The results can be found here.

Anyway, I enjoyed my time in Italy.

I had mixed emotions during my first World Championships. At this very moment I do feel exhausted, weak and tired. Lately I have been training irregular. I want to train on fixed days again. For now I’ll be back in The Netherlands for a while to fight gravity. It’s hard without rocks though, but I have enough time to prepare form y next international lead competition which will take place at Puurs end of September!

More photos will be available on my Facebook page!

The National kickoff for the boulderseason was 2 weeks ago. I can recall boulder 1 like yesterday.

Boulder 2 was planned yesterday, also known as the I love problems event at Rotterdam. A major difference between boulder 1 and 2 was the amount of participants. It’s a nice challenge to compete against more participants!

Fortunately I could arrange a last minute ride from Utrecht to Rotterdam Steeppart. Together with Mirthe van Liere we could tag along from Utrecht and arrived at the venue around noon.

When I signed up I received a nice white shirt with a logo from I love problems. We had plenty of time because we had to wait til 2 PM for the competition to start. While I was exploring around I saw Bart van Raaij, chief routesetter, panicking at times. Kenji Tsujimaru was busy with his topo guide and also Jeroen Bliek, speaker of the event, returned from being away for nearly 2 years.

I ordered a toast at the bar and then spotted myself on the Wall of Fame. That made me smile!

Due to my golfer’s elbow in other words medial epicondylitis I decided to warm up proper. I can’t really call it an injury yet although it’s getting really sensitive. I also felt a sore muscle in my lower back which caused me a lot of trouble to get my right leg up. To sum it up, this wasn’t my day to go all out and send problems.

I like the qualification problems. I don’t know who rated the problems though, however some of the problems were categorized wrong. A few problems were too easy to belong in the hardest category. Those problems are nice (orange nr 87 and black nr 12), and very appreciated to put on my ticklist haha! Well I also ran into hard problems, but thanks to the diversity of all problems, I should label these boulders as a success. With a score of 505 points I managed a 5th place together with Hans Busker and Teun Keusters.

A 5th place was a spot in the finals. 8 men and 8 women were advanced to the finals. Due to many ties in both categories, only 7 persons were allowed to join the finals.

At half past 6 we had to be in the isolation area. After a short briefing by the judges, we could start preparing the problems. 8 minutes of preptime to figure out 4 problems.

The startlist was published and my name was on top of it which means i could start climbing first. The first problem was a traverse to the right. It took me so much effort to get there. My right leg wasn’t cooperating and felt my sore muscle so I had to find another solution. Unfortunately a no go in this problem.

The second problems was pretty tough. It was a mint boulder, starting 1 hand on the side and the other full crimp on a tiny edgy hold. I thought I had to crossover with my right hand and match it with my left hand. I couldn’t manage to get to the zone hold.

Later on chief Bart explained me the sequence of the problem. To get to the zone hold, you should match your right hand, put your right foot up and then reach the side / zone hold with your right hand. The distance between the hold on the module and the side was too far for me. Too bad.

I liked the 3rd boulder problem. The start was funny. From an undercling on a module, you had to put your feet against the wall first and then you’re allowed to go to a nice sidepull. Once I got there, I had to jump to the next hold. Finally after 3 times I managed to get the hold on the module and control my swing. I grabbed the zone and crossover again with left and the end was within my sight. I wanted to put my left foot high under my elbow but slipped away from the zone hold. Again no top, however I earned my first zone.

The final boulder problem was set with red holds. I think the problem was kinda morfo. Tall people had more advantage in this problem. To get the undercling (from a module) above your head wasn’t nice at all, even harder when you’re standing stretched out. In my opinion, the setter should’ve put the left starting hold higher. It wouldn’t change anything in the problem itself. Another no go!

I was clearly not having my day / moment. I ended up 7th though during this boulder event. Check the rest of the results here. More photos (125 photos) are available on my Facebook.

I don’t know if I can look back positive on this competition despite my 7th place. The competition contained many problems and it was well organised. I think it’s wise to recover from my golfer’s elbow first. This means less bouldering for me and focussing more on rope climbing. See you next time at Lead 2!

The National kickoff for the boulderseason was 2 weeks ago. I can recall boulder 1 like yesterday.

Boulder 2 was planned yesterday, also known as the I love problems event at Rotterdam. A major difference between boulder 1 and 2 was the amount of participants. It’s a nice challenge to compete against more participants!

Fortunately I could arrange a last minute ride from Utrecht to Rotterdam Steeppart. Together with Mirthe van Liere we could tag along from Utrecht and arrived at the venue around noon.

When I signed up I received a nice white shirt with a logo from I love problems. We had plenty of time because we had to wait til 2 PM for the competition to start. While I was exploring around I saw Bart van Raaij, chief routesetter, panicking at times. Kenji Tsujimaru was busy with his topo guide and also Jeroen Bliek, speaker of the event, returned from being away for nearly 2 years.

I ordered a toast at the bar and then spotted myself on the Wall of Fame. That made me smile!

Due to my golfer’s elbow in other words medial epicondylitis I decided to warm up proper. I can’t really call it an injury yet although it’s getting really sensitive. I also felt a sore muscle in my lower back which caused me a lot of trouble to get my right leg up. To sum it up, this wasn’t my day to go all out and send problems.

I like the qualification problems. I don’t know who rated the problems though, however some of the problems were categorized wrong. A few problems were too easy to belong in the hardest category. Those problems are nice (orange nr 87 and black nr 12), and very appreciated to put on my ticklist haha! Well I also ran into hard problems, but thanks to the diversity of all problems, I should label these boulders as a success. With a score of 505 points I managed a 5th place together with Hans Busker and Teun Keusters.

A 5th place was a spot in the finals. 8 men and 8 women were advanced to the finals. Due to many ties in both categories, only 7 persons were allowed to join the finals.

At half past 6 we had to be in the isolation area. After a short briefing by the judges, we could start preparing the problems. 8 minutes of preptime to figure out 4 problems.

The startlist was published and my name was on top of it which means i could start climbing first. The first problem was a traverse to the right. It took me so much effort to get there. My right leg wasn’t cooperating and felt my sore muscle so I had to find another solution. Unfortunately a no go in this problem.

The second problems was pretty tough. It was a mint boulder, starting 1 hand on the side and the other full crimp on a tiny edgy hold. I thought I had to crossover with my right hand and match it with my left hand. I couldn’t manage to get to the zone hold.

Later on chief Bart explained me the sequence of the problem. To get to the zone hold, you should match your right hand, put your right foot up and then reach the side / zone hold with your right hand. The distance between the hold on the module and the side was too far for me. Too bad.

I liked the 3rd boulder problem. The start was funny. From an undercling on a module, you had to put your feet against the wall first and then you’re allowed to go to a nice sidepull. Once I got there, I had to jump to the next hold. Finally after 3 times I managed to get the hold on the module and control my swing. I grabbed the zone and crossover again with left and the end was within my sight. I wanted to put my left foot high under my elbow but slipped away from the zone hold. Again no top, however I earned my first zone.

The final boulder problem was set with red holds. I think the problem was kinda morfo. Tall people had more advantage in this problem. To get the undercling (from a module) above your head wasn’t nice at all, even harder when you’re standing stretched out. In my opinion, the setter should’ve put the left starting hold higher. It wouldn’t change anything in the problem itself. Another no go!

I wasn’t clearly having my day / moment. I ended up 7th though during this boulder event. Check the rest of the results here. More photos (125 photos) are available on my Facebook.

I don’t know if I can look back positive on this competition despite my 7th place. The competition contained many problems and it was well organised. I think it’s wise to recover from my golfer’s elbow first. This means less bouldering for me and focussing more on rope climbing. See you next time at Lead 2!

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