Posts Tagged ‘outdoor’

Olaaaa!

Last 2 weeks I visited Spain. I escaped the cold in The Netherlands and was enjoying El Chorro where the weather was sunny.

Jérôme picked me up by car at Malaga.

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From there we drove about 1 hour to El Chorro. These rocks are south located and best visited during winter times. Great planning and I was looking forward to it for a while.

Tuesday we started to explore the rocks. It took us nearly 1,5 hours to walk and find the sector Makinodromo. It wasn’t easy to get there, because you will have to enter traintunnels and ascend more or less 250 meters.

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On this ledge we were a bit focused on the walk. At this height you don’t want to fall haha.

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Carrying waterbottles, food, gear and rope is quite heavy and the walk was killing us. We climbed there 4 days in a row. The routes are between 25 and 40 meters. At the end of the week we felt dead.

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By the way, here is a nice indication of the routes at El Chorro.

El-Chorro

Source: www.bernabefernandez.com

We had 1 restday and went back to Malaga to pick up a friend of Jérôme. François Peraldi joined us for a week. Welcome to Spain senior!

The next day we visited a new area. We visited Archidona cueva, which is near Antequera.

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We were hoping it was half in the sun, however when we arrived there, the cave was in the shadow and full of bird shit.

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The routes are amazing though! It has a lot of overhang. I found an overview of the routes in the cave as well.

Archidona

Source: www.bernabefernandez.com

I had my eyes on this route Kallisté which I read about on the internet. It was definitely worth a go. 40 meters, overhang, it was almost perfect.

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We climbed here for 2 days, it just felt too cold. One of the benefits of Archidona is that walking from the car to the wall takes about 10 minutes.

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However when you see the ground is freezing, you know what time it is. This is a summerspot. Time to find another area.

After Archidona we tried another new area. According the topoguide, Loja supposed to be half in the sun.

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We visited that area because the photos in the topoguide looked nice. When we arrived there, we parked the car next to the road and had a look at the crag.

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Unfortunately the rocks were quite disappointing, again it was in the shadow and it seemed really short (10 – 15 meters high). We left this area and planned a restday instead.

We visited El Torcal in the afternoon. It looks amazing.

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The altitude was 1200M and the rocks are so cool here. We even saw some wild animals running among us.

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The last week we went back to El Chorro. We needed some sun after these cold days. The first day was not too bad.

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I was trying to climb Cous cous and managed to pass the hardest crux of the route.

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The sequence in the middle of the route wasn’t so obvious to read. I tried different methods but after a while I wanted to put effort in new routes. This route has been downgraded to 8b+ anyway. I switched to different routes and managed to climb an 8 every day.

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Again after 4 days of climbing in a row, plus the walk towards Makinodromo was simply exhausting.

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Just for your info: I think our record is to walk within 1 hour towards Makinodromo. The run down was funny. It took more or less 10 minutes 😀 hahaha!

Here’s a summary of my sends during these 2 weeks.

Sector Makinodromo:

Grade Name Attempt
6C Life is Sweet flash
7A+ Hakuna Matata flash
7B La Columna de Gollum onsight
7B Las Loi Laufen onsight
7C+ Smashing Pumpkins 2 tries
8A Porrot 2nd go
8A Lourdes 4th go
8a Pepe El Boludo flash
8a+ Randi L1 3rd go
8b+ Cous cous work out, no send

Sector Archidona cueva:

Grade Name Attempt
7A+ Amantis Religiosa flash
7A+ Cayo Malayo onsight
7A+ Posiblemente Iluevan Piedras flash
7C Antonia onsight
8C Kallisté 4 tries, no send

Sector Loja:
Short, shadow, not worth to visit ever again.

My top 3 routes of this holiday:
Number 3 is Lourdes. It has 2 big holes and 2 small crimps to start with, I love those crimps. The rest of the holds are super!

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If you climb technical you will find some hidden kneebars in these tufas. After the send, I climbed this route every day to warm up.

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Loving the endurance of +30 meters! I rate it *** stars.

Number 2 is definitely Pepe El Boludo. I think this is one of the longest routes in this sector: 38 meter. We were at the end of our rope. It has everything, from slopey holds to tufas. Big thanks to Jérôme for the beta method. I enjoyed the climb. Muy bien ***!

Number 1 is definitely Kallisté in Archidona. This route is at least 35 meters in a very overhanging wall. The first 20 meters is more or less 7c+ / 8a and from here it starts to get bouldery and all you think about is how to survive, not letting go of the holds and try to climb efficient.

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I managed to climb 90% of the route, definitely worth a comeback very soon! My dream route: *****

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Jérôme and François, thank you for the great time in Spain! For now I’m back in Eindhoven, back on plastic fantastic holds. See you around!

DSC04181sA few years ago I was sent away from Berdorf Luxembourg. I didn’t have a climbing permit.

I have been avoiding Berdorf for a while (since 2011). And just a weekend ago, I was invited to tag along to Berdorf again.
To me it was a last minute decision. We left on Friday evening June 12th and planned this trip until Sunday evening.

Fraser (UK), Chris (USA), Valentina (RUS) and me (NL :P) went by car and enjoyed the beautiful forest. Saturday we climbed lots of routes. I believe I managed to climb at least 10 times, from 6a to 8b. I just wanted to climb, enjoy the routes, nature and the crazy international company.

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Sunday we wanted to start a bit earlier. Our goal was to be at the rocks at 10 AM.

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I didn’t have a permit though, but I had this hunch that I will meet these forest rangers again.

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And just when I was about to climb this nice route in the shadow, these forest rangers holding a tablet in their hands showed up out of no where. Of course, permit check! I got busted again…

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We had to quit climbing. But no worries. I will be back. Later.

Lately I haven’t spotted many climbing videos on the web. Fortunately I did find one cool video on the webpage of Petzl that is worth sharing. This dude and chick rocks. Have fun watching!

Video: Chris Sharma – back in Ceuse

After I’ve returned from Fontaine Bleau, all I wanted was to climb more on sandstone. My next weekend was already planned with another climbing trip.

A few days ago I contacted Jérôme again to make plans about Berdorf. It was my initiative to enjoy outdoors again in the forest. The advantage of Berdorf compared to Bleau is that the distance is somewhat shorter from Eindhoven. It’s about 3 hours of driving. Berdorf is a small village in Luxembourg and you can enjoy the sandstone structure in routes.

Friday afternoon we left Eindhoven. We expected to arrive about 3 in the P.M. in Luxembourg however we got stuck in traffic jam which took us another hour to get to Luxembourg.


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Oh well, what’s an hour in a lifetime right? When we were halfway, we saw lots of nice landscapes. More hills, more green and yesss more rocks!

When we arrived in Berdorf, we grabbed our stuff and were eager to climb some rocks.

After a few warm up routes, I wanted to climb Bobby Brown. I heard many stories about this route. It was my opportunity to climb it. The quickdraws were already set which was really cool. I heard some information about the route before and witnessed a climber in it. I paid attention to the holds and received valuable information from Jérôme. The result was a 10 minute fight in the wall without letting go any holds! Yes, I managed to flash Bobby Brown. One of the nicest lines of Berdorf!

Jérôme started to try Hermann Buhl and I decided to join him. After a work out session, I must say that it’s pretty hard. There are 2 dynos for me. I find it difficult to climb on this wall. I have to climb very open which isn’t my style at all and there aren’t many footholds.

However when you’ve visited Fontaine Bleau, your confidence level will increase at least with 76% and you believe you can place your feet on the smallest footholds without zipping away. Meanwhile it got darker and we decided to call it a day.

The second day I woke up at 9 A.M. without alarm. A nice time to start right? We fixed a quick breakfast in the morning and arrived at 10 A.M. at the rocks to warmup.

After 3 routes we were planning to send Hermann Buhl. Just before us a Dutch guy Maarten sent the route. Now I was extra motivated to send the route as well!

Maarten was nice enough to switch the quickdraws. Thanks for that! After our first attempt (both on video) I felt a few raindrops! Oh nooooo, not now, I had the sequence printed in my head and had to climb this route today! Jérôme felt the pressure too. We had a lot of pressure and without much rest we were climbing too fast. Jérôme managed to climb the crux but just missed the dyno after the crux! My biceps felt sore and I needed a rest. I ate some baguette with cheese and cucumber and felt better again.

Time to give another go! When I arrived at the crux, I went all out and locked my arm in the left pocket. Surprisingly I managed to reach the crimp below the little roof! Yes, this means I can send it. I need to focus on the dyno! I rested a bit and went to the next hold. Baaam! A short powerful yell came out of me and I bet everyone heard me fighting!

Yes, my righthand was accurate enough to fix the sloper. After a few minutes I could clip the chain. I sent Hermann Buhl to heaven and it made me felt so good.

Video: Berdorf – Preview Hermann Buhl

The routes I climbed this trip at Berdorf:
Luftikus 6b
Kaffisdous 7a+
Willy 6c
Heinz 6c
Voleur de spits 7a+
Bobby Brown 7c flash
Schotte Bob 6b+
Hermann Buhl 8a+

This was the end of my day. Later in the afternoon it started to rain. Talking about lucky eh? I have yet another competition to go on Sunday. I feel drained though. Hopefully I can recover for this competition. My motivation for routes has increased. Despite my energy level I feel like climbing this competition!

Today the first boulder qualification competition will be held at Rocksteady Bussum. The weather conditions doesn’t look so promising to me, especially when all the problems are set outdoor in the garden!

Oh well, there is only one way to find out.

Wish me luck, I’ll update you later.

Last week I received a text message on my mobile phone from Timo Tak. He’s back in town and felt like climbing outdoors. Although the weather forecast wasn’t that good I’d accepted his invitation to climb outdoors. Once in a while you need to take a risk to climb outdoors.

8 in the AM I was ready to go. I packed my harness, climbing shoes, quickdraws and enough food with me. A little later Timo arrived in his dark marine Peugeot. He was just in time, that’s how I reckon Timo.

Eindhoven – Freyr, 215 km

2 hours and 15 minutes later we arrived at Freyr. Surprisingly it was dry! We noticed the parking lot was full of cars.

Obviously we weren’t the only one who felt like climbing.

After some warm up routes, we were looking for long difficult routes.

Dry rocks yeah!

Timo is looking for a route to climb.

Timo is working in a route.

The ClickUp works perfect!

What’s the best way to get up? Right…

Some time later…

Timo hiding from raindrops.

It was pouring too much rain, time to go home.

We climbed about 4 hours at Freyr. Unfortunately the weatherman was correct and it started to rain a lot. We hoped for dry weather, better luck next time.

Oh well, we had fun climbing. Soon we’ll be back to finish our route.

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