Posts Tagged ‘Neoliet’

Hi climbers!

As you know the lead season started a month ago. The first lead competition was held in Tilburg. I consider Neoliet Tilburg as one of my home gyms where I like to climb in the amazing roof.

The qualification routes went pretty well. The first route was set in the roof. I had no trouble with the roof climbing and it felt like a warm up route to me. The second route was set on the main wall. It was more a long boulder with a challenging start. Fortunately I could boulder my way up and because of this I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I can cut my story short about the finals. My left foot slipped from the first hold. My attempt was over. I felt unhappy, however I know how to cope with disappointment. Unfortunately I ended up 8th.

After the competition I went to Italy for 2 weeks. I just got back from a relaxing holiday to Arco when 3 days later the 2nd lead competition was held in Amsterdam. I had to change my focus from rock to plastic in a short period of time. Before the competition I climbed routes in Tilburg and had another boulder session in Monk. With a rest day in between the climbing sessions I was hoping for a peak moment during the competition.

This competition was held in Mountain Network Amsterdam. The first route was easy, I topped this route without getting pumped in my forearms. The second route went really well until I fell on the last move. I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I had plenty of time to prepare for the finals. The route contained a lot of moves. My endurance level was being tested during my climb. I could climb and fight until I was totally pumped in my forearms.

Finals

I ended up 2nd which currently places me 3rd in the overall ranking. I’m happy with the result and will try to keep my place or advance to the top!

Truong-w-medal

For now there are no lead competitions planned. The next one will take place in September, at Rock Steady Bussum. After that the last competition at I-VY Climbing Sittard in October. I will keep you posted 🙂

As I have mentioned earlier, I was testing routes for the youth lead 4 competition.

This was the last qualification for the youth to qualify for the national youth championship though.

Today I decided to visit Neoliet Eindhoven to witness the competition.

I arrived just in time to see the finals. I observed the routes well and it was good to know that the routes were all tweaked last minute! I was curious about the qualifiers and who advanced to the finals.

15 Minutes later I got myself a microphone and I was lucky enough to be a speaker during the finals. Below you’ll see my note as promised (notes are in Dutch only)!

I was standing above the stairs with a few notes and a mic in my hands. After some prep time, it was time to see the kids climbing hard.

Left there was a blue route for the girls and right there was a yellow route for the boys.

Sometimes I was so enthusiastic, that I mentioned a bit too much about the route. “Clip your quickdraw!”, I shouted. That was forbidden, however due to safety reasons it was allowed though. Everyone took advantage of my information and I saved some kids lifes yeah!

I think the kids climbed well. Easy said as a speaker though, but I think it’s important that youth climbers get nice competitions. They are the future of sports climbing.

The girls B+C category was quite intense, because two girls managed to send the route. They were advanced to a super finals. The battle was between Enya Groenland and Celine Cuypers (BEL). With a few tweaks from chiefsetter Ulf, Celine managed to win by a few more holds! Awesome!

The winners: Emma Passchier, Tabitha Buma, Wouter van Roessel, Bob Schubert and Celine Cuypers, all of you well done and congratulations with your win! The rest of the results are here.

I’m glad I was part of this competition. It was a pleasure to be here. See you next time again!

Friday evening after work I picked up my Boreal Falcon climbing shoes and my Moon chalk bag at Monk Bouldergym.
I was preparing myself for the next day. Once I got home I packed my bags and couldn’t wait to climb the new boulder problems in Tilburg.

When I woke up this morning, without alarm clock, I felt hungry. So I was fixing myself some breakfast. I didn’t have much food on stock, except a few crackers and Powerbars. I’ll survive for a few hours I suppose, thanks to Powerbar. I ran down the stairs and left my bike at the station the other day which forced me to go on foot or by bus to the station.

1,5 hours later I finally arrived at Neoliet climbing gym Tilburg. The building looks really nice. When I entered the climbing gym, I thought I’d be the first one to climb these Upload problems. I was wrong because a few locals beat me first and sent the problems on Friday evening. So much for my Upload shirt.

I walked down the stairs to the boulder area and saw Mirthe van Liere and Pascal Heger working in the Upload boulders. Obviously I wasn’t the only one who wanted to send the problems.

Ulf Lennertz and Neoliet founder Erik Jacobs joined later on. Too bad Erik doesn’t join the competition, he believes that he’s not in climbing shape however he did manage to send all the problems.

Yeah I think you should join the competition, you won’t fool me, you’re strong enough Erik, but that’s my opinion.

I like the concept of Upload competition. You can go to a climbing gym and work out the problems whenever you want. Well, I know that there are a bunch of climbers out there who recorded their ascents but haven’t uploaded any of their videos yet. I guess that’s a tactic and wait till the very end of this competition and finally upload all the problems at once and suprise everyone. Well if everyone would upload all the videos at the end, I doubt that this concept will ever return again! I just want to say that climbers should upload their videos now to support Monk with this concept.

Anyway, Pascal and Ulf recorded my problems. Without them I wouldn’t be able to record my problems and I thank them for their support.

I didn’t edit any of my videos, please turn off your speakers to mute Ulf’s comments, don’t tell me I didn’t warn you. Below you’ll see all 6 problems. Again I have to admit that it was a nice set of boulder problems and nice to send. Have fun and upload your problems too!

Women’s boulder #1 Vinnie

Women’s boulder #2 Sjors

Women’s boulder #3 Charles

Men’s boulder #1 Lola

Men’s boulder #2 Viola

Men’s boulder #3 Wendela

Extra compilation of Ulf Lennertz, who talks too much haha!

Mirthe is sharing her secrets to Ulf

Ulf working in women’s boulder #2 Sjors

Last week I was approached by the board of climbing competition. Casper ten Sijthoff requested if I wanted to set routes for this Youth Lead 2 competition at Eindhoven. That was nice because I didn’t have many plans anyway. My job was to set the most difficult route, the finals! My job was head chief setter, therefore the routes have to be good.

Members of the Youth Lead competition felt that the routes were poorly designed, and not challenging enough causing the competition to end late. I wanted to tackle this problem, if the routes were set well then the competition will end on time and everyone will be happy.

Last Thursday I visited Neoliet Eindhoven. Together with Martijn Dijkhuizen we set up a plan for the routes. I noticed that most of the routes were too easy or had to be reset. My first reaction about the routes was to set it more difficult. I started with my route, filled a sack with white holds and get busy setting. After 4 hours I was finally done with my final route.

From my experience I know it’s not nice to fall out a route especially when the route contains reachy movements or lock down movements. I set one white route with a lot of movements and I hope everyone will get really high. I also set a purple qualification route. My day went by fast.

Yesterday noon I returned to this climbing gym. Erik Jacobs was present to test routes as well. After I tested some qualification routes, I find a few routes not proper enough for this competition. The routes were too simple and too continuous. This meant extra load of work. I don’t like up side down holds and started filling a sack with holds to modify these routes. Martijn reset some routes too. We were busy taking care of these competition routes till past midnight. We fixed route drawings and added numbers on it as well. Unfortunately I was unable to go home by bus at 1 A.M, so I sat on the steering wheel of Martijn’s bike. That was so funny!

Today at 9 A.M. my alarm clock went off and I got up at 9.45 A.M. It was hard to get out of bed, however I had to be present at the climbing gym today. Youth Lead 2 was about to start. I peddled my way to the gym and was exhausted. At the climbing gym I ran into Kim van den Hout and heard her laughing. She requested if I could demonstrate the qualifications. What!? I was tired and didn’t expect this. I just wanted to watch, but I accepted her request anyway. I had a lot of things on my mind. I had to see Martijn to setup the audio for music and announcements and take care of the side walls. First I need to eat a sandwich and warm up properly. Before I started to demonstrate, I had to concentrate and go 100 percent for each route, black 6c, purple 6c, purple 7a+, yellow 7a+ and white 7a went well. The routes were worth climbing! Yes, now it is up to the kids to enjoy climbing these routes.

Next were the finals. When I was looking at my route, I missed a few foot holds and decided last minute to set some more foot holds. It was a good decision and received some compliments. The route was long and the higher you get, the more difficult it was to climb. I was content about it. There seem to be a good division among the youth climbers. My job was done for today, the competition ended at half past 5 and everyone was happy.

This competition went well, the organisation was good and I thank everyone who were present today. Check out the Youth Lead 2 results.

Last Sunday the 2nd boulder qualification was held at Neoliet Heerlen.

I signed up last minute at the NKBV. I really want to focus on lead instead of bouldering. In my opinion I was curious about the boulder qualification even though I wasn’t in shape.

As usual I arrived at Monk by bike. Dirk was already waiting and busy with positioning terrace furniture. Soon Kim arrived as well, wearing golden shades and Sanuk sandals. Not bad at all, it really felt as a hot summer day. I decided to eat some breakfast and fixed myself some sandwiches and a banana.

Next Tom Hendriks arrived by car, his mom dropped him at the parking lot. What a luxury. And eventually Bruno Geurts arrived by bike. We were complete and ready to go to Heerlen.

After 45 minutes Dirk was wondering if anyone knew how to get to the venue. He showed us a paper with a map on it. Due to construction work we had to use other roads. For a moment we didn’t know which directions to follow. I anticipated on this situation, grabbed my phone, look for the address of the climbing gym and enter it into my navigation program. With my phone we managed to find the climbing gym. Nowadays we can’t live without our awesome gadgets.

At the climbing gym I signed up and changed my clothes. I needed some time to warm up proper. I still felt somewhat sleepy.


Photo by: Gabriele Armino

After a few boulders I still wasn’t concentrated. 4 Hours later I handed in my score form. I ended up 7th and ex aequo with some other climbers.

Usually the best 6 climbers advance to the finals, however this time 8 climbers may get to the finals. The 4 of us were 7th due to equal score, the competition committee and the main judge Herman Engbers decided to let us all climb the finals. That means that I wasn’t finished and I had another chance to improve myself by climbing 3 final boulders.

In the isolation area I got distracted and lost my competition motivation. Most of the finalists were outside enjoying the sun. I had a hard time to get the proper competition mind set.
I hear someone shouting my name. It was my turn to go to the second isolation area. Vera was sitting next to me and so busy polishing her shoes. She felt nervous. It was her first Dutch competition again since her shoulder injury. I didn’t care that she was nervous and stared just in front of me.

The final boulders didn’t go too well. I only managed to reach a zone hold. Mentally I wasn’t present at this competition. I ended up 11th in the finals. I had little expectations, however as a competition climber you need to understand how to deal with it. It is good to experience it. Both physical and mental aspects are important in order to climb well. Hopefully next time I’ll be well prepared so I can enjoy more of the competition!

Promotop3

Last Sunday was the final Promotop held at Eindhoven. Things didn’t go so well as i kept messing around in the semis and ended up in 6th. But this was enough to place me in the try-out duel climbing in the finals.

My duel was versus Tim Reuser, Nicky de Leeuw, and Pim Cattenstart. All worthy opponents who ended above me in the semis. I had won the battle versus Tim by time, Nicky was too fast for me and Pim surrendered due to a finger injury. This led me to 3rd place in the finals.

The finals were spectacular for the viewers and supporters, but the route was built too easy for the competitors which turned this more into a speed competition than a lead competition. Usually I’m in for a speed competition but not during these qualifications. Mentioning that there will be a speed competition during the finals in three weeks advanced is a big challenge. Perhaps it is one of the reasons why not many competitors showed up. I’m in for a change but this format about duel climbing has a lot to improve.

This competition has led me to 5th place overall and made me officially qualified for the Dutch Leadclimbing Championship of 2009.

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