Posts Tagged ‘Monk Bouldergym’

This week I was really looking forward to the annual Dust 2012 event!

I recovered quite well from the 100% boulders event from last week. It was a good training session. This week I didn’t climb 5 times a week but just two times. This morning I woke up and ate some grapes and a sandwich before it was time to peddle my way to Monk Bouldergym.

I arrived just on time and said hello to Teun Keusters, Ulf Lennertz, Daan Groskamp and Vera Zijlstra. It was fun to hang around. Not much later Vera unlocked the CTO area where I changed my clothes and got ready to rumble.

Today I figured it was fun to solve boulder problems with Vera. Most of the time she could catch up with me pretty well. We used my topo guide and climbed like maniacs.

Luckily I managed to flash some hard problems, saving me some skin for the rest of the boulders. Actually I was quite proud of myself whenever that happened haha. Every small success should be celebrated.

I didn’t have any tactics today. I knew it was quite hard to go for the best 8 problems so I set my mind to climb as much as possible. It was my only goal for today. Climb until I’m out of time!

Vera quit a bit earlier but I kept going on. I didn’t have much skin problems. More or less my feet started to hurt from wearing the awesome Boreal Kintaro so long.

Anyway, later I ran into photographer Tom Doms. He wanted to take a few shots and you’ll see the photos in this story as I’m writing it. I was finishing up the easy set problems in my last hour. Sometimes I was just staring at the wall, because it was so ‘Dusty’.

In my last hour I still had to finish about 31 problems. About 10 problems were easy problems and the rest were 7a or harder. Vera was filling in my problems and supported me, thanks for that!

In my last problem I felt a bit tired. It was a black problem on the competition wall. I had to put a lot of effort in this one. I almost fell out of the problem however I didn’t want to give up and try it again. I just needed to put my left foot next to my left hand and stand up. Yeah I managed to do it and sent it! Awesome!

According to my topo guide, I climbed 76 problems out of 90. Tired but satisfied about my performance!

I remember I climbed 80 problems last year, so I was hoping it was enough in my category. I handed in my score form and went to do some groceries. 30 minutes later I received a text message from Vera that the price ceremony had already began! I was warming up some soup and haven’t started yet. Oh well, I got to hurry and peddled back to Monk Bouldergym.

Pheeew, I was just in time for the price ceremony. They started to hand out prizes for several categories. I was waiting for the category: Male most climbed boulders. And finally Joris Klinkenbijl started with number 3: Tim Reuser. I knew he climbed 74. 2nd was Elko Schellingerhout, he climbed 75 problems. Nr 1: Truong Ngo. Hey that’s me! Yeah! I climbed 76 problems, woooow that was a close call. I received 7 bags of Moon chalk. Thank you Dust 2012. You can find the rest of the results here.

More photos of Tom will be soon available on his Facebookpage.

It’s time to get some rest. I had oodles of fun climbing the problems. I’ll climb the rest in my spare time. So see you around at Monk!

Yeah, this competition started this morning! A competition till 18 years old! I’m talking about Youth Open 2011 at Monk Bouldergym.

The youth of today, 175 kids (!!), are performing right now at Monk! Unfortunately you can’t sign up anymore, it’s full, however you can enjoy the ambiance though!

Will you be around? I’m going to drink some Milk & Fruit juice to warm up my voice. I’ll be announcing some news and eventually hand out prices to the best boulder kids of the country.

See you around at Monk!

Impression photos:

Check out Facebook for more photos!

Last Thursday boulder setter Herman Engbers was setting problems again.

He set 4 new problems on the competition wall. We invited Hans Busker to climb with us among the national team.

And from far far away we managed to ship Nicky de Leeuw to Monk Bouldergym from Austria!

Tuesday we were with 12 climbers, unusual big group though, however on Thursday we were only with 6 climbers. Coach Wally enjoyed the training too.

First we warmed up 10 minutes and then making up problems for each other, followed by a competition simulation.

Compared to last Tuesday, the problems were harder. From 4 problems (from left to right: yellow, yellow, grey and yellow) I managed to have one bonus and one top. Herman was testing his skills for the men’s finals though.

At the end we enjoyed some yoga exercises led by CTO powertrainer Tanja Sarenac.

I liked this training a lot. By the way, most of the problems are re-adjusted by Herman, because they were a tad too hard.

More photos available on Facebook!

Thursday evening I went to climbing gym Neoliet Eindhoven to test the competition routes for the Youth lead 4 competition. I took some notes, which I will upload tomorrow on my webpage after the match. Hopefully the routes are tweaked though. Anyway, the routes are nice. Good luck tomorrow!j

Today I had another team training in our national trainingscenter: Monk Bouldergym.

I entered the gym at 3.15 P.M. and boulder setter Herman Engbers was busy setting new problems on the competition wall.

Besides the competition problems from last Saturday, there are now 2 new traverse routes on the wall. Those were already set before Herman started though.

Today’s update: there are 4 new problems on the wall. Each wall has a green boulder problem!

Besides our team members we had a few guests among our team: Enya Groenland, Tom Hendriks and Mirthe van Liere. It was nice to have them around. Our training was led by coach Wally.

We conducted a warming up at first, to sum up: climbing 3 green problems, traverse from left to right on the training wall, leaning 30 seconds on your elbows, climbing 3 blue problems, 10 pushups on the floor, climbing 3 grey problems, hanging on the horizontal bar and flip hands without falling 10 times, climbing 3 magenta problems, hanging on a horizontal bar and lift your toes all the way up to the bar without bending your legs 10 times, traverse on the training wall from right to left, climbing 3 apple green problems followed by 8 pullups on the horizontal bar.

Then we created 3 groups with 4 climbers and make up creative problems for each other. In my group there were 3 ladies: Tabster, Eva and Enya. Each problems should be challenging enough, so we’d be well warmed up for the competition simulation.

Well, that’s easy said and done. With the same group we started climbing our competition problems, set by Herman. There was 5 minutes time to solve each problem. My goal was to climb each problem within 3 attempts.

I thought it would be really difficult because Herman wanted to test his skills for the national championship. I was wrong, the problems weren’t that difficult however really nice though. I achieved my goal.

At the end we conducted some stretch exercises.

It was a really nice training. More photos are available on my Facebook! I can’t wait for my next training!

Yesterday was the final boulder qualification at Monk Bouldergym! I started climbing at 12.30, right after I signed up at Dirk and Remco.

I spotted coach Wally at the bar, standing with a topo guide. He was checking the problems and the points. It was time to climb with tactics, I like that! Don’t just climb random problems, but just focus on the 6 most difficult problems.

After I changed my clothes, I warmed up properly. The gym was getting crowded and yet warmer. A nice temperature to train though. I was a bit slow with my warm up, it took me at least half an hour before I could check my first hard problem. A pink problem in a roof was quite hard for my right biceps. Therefore I tried a black problem, which was on the right of the wall.

Vera gave me some advise about this problem. I succeeded yeah! Alright, I feel somewhat warmer. The pink problem in the roof went well too. It was a matter of being accurate and slap your hands on the right place of the holds. Yeah, I managed to send boulder problem number 2. Off to the next wall, where I could send another 2 problems. It was in front of the campus board. A pink problem going left was okay. I flashed that one. And a black problem took me a few attempts, which by the way was really awesome!

I had done 4 problems so far. I nearly caught up with Vera and Teun.

They already sent 5 problems. Vera showed me another black problem, which was on a pretty vertical wall. Yeah, I could flash this one too. It went super, just 1 more problem to go.

I wanted to climb this white problem, which had a standing start in a roof. There weren’t many tops in this problem so far.

This problem delivers me quite some points if I will climb it! I’m going to focus on this problem and after a short break of 10 minutes I was hanging on the final hold of the white problem. Yeeehaa, finally I can take a long break.

It was only 3 P.M. when I changed my clothes and handed in my score form.

Well, now I could do some groceries and start with my dinner. At home I could run some other errands and rest a bit. Meanwhile the scores were available online, on the NKBV webpage. I like that, I could check the score while being at home. Awesome! I’m placed 4th to the finals.

I was on my way to Monk to witness the ladies’ finals.

Then all the finalists had to enter the isolation area. The men’s finalists were: Wouter, Tim, Bruno, Hans, Rens, Teun, Elko and me. Dirk was standing in front of the isolation area, checking if everyone is present. Check!

I had about 20 minutes to warm up again. I didn’t feel like warming up though, because it was pretty hot. We got a briefing, but there was no interesting facts about the problems. Same story as always! 4 Minutes per problem and that’s it. After 8 minutes of prep time, it was time to show some boulder skills.

The first problem was set on a vertical wall, on the right. It was pretty obvious what to do.

There was no final hold, but a square made of tape. It was allowed to use the top of the wall though. I couldn’t reach the square, therefore I had to jump. Putting my left foot high and go!

Unfortunately I couldn’t keep my body close to the wall while jumping. Jumping with 2 feet didn’t work as well. I had a lame bonus hold for a start of the finals while most of the competitors managed to reach the final square without jumping. Oh well, next problem!

In my second problem I couldn’t reach on top of a big volume.

Well, it looks like a dyno, but somehow I didn’t feel this one. Climbing on the side was a bit tricky, but I could touch the volume.

No top nor bonus hold for me. I feel pretty stupid. In the isolation area I heard lots of cheering from the audience. The idea was to jump to the big volume and the side at the same time. That means you should have quite a big reach! I don’t know if I would have succeeded, but I didn’t try this in my attempt.

In my third boulder problem it was a matter of crimping and pinching white holds.

I placed a heelhook with my left foot on the starthold to match my left hand on the next module. That went okay, however my heel hurted so bad after doing that.

In my 4th attempt I finally managed to grab the bonus hold!

In my final attempt, my foot zipped away from the module, right before I wanted to jump to the next hold. Such a pity. I know I can climb this boulder, but not right now I suppose. I couldn’t motivate myself enough to climb hard, I could only smile about the problems.

On to the final problem!

The final problem contained a lot of volumes. It was a nice problem but I was too tired to conduct the proper sequence. I tried to put my right heel on the right module but I was too weak. I couldn’t lock off my left arm in order to continue to the next volume with my right hand. The spotlights aiming on the wall didn’t help me either. It was so hot standing there. I just don’t want to give up. In my final attempt I failed again. I have a bonus hold on this one, and that’s it.

Well it’s the end of the evening for me. No tops in the finals. I ended up last in the finals, 8th place. Lame score, however it doesn’t matter if I’d end up 3rd or last in the finals, because in the overall score I’m keeping my 5th spot. Yeah! You can check the final scores here. I’d like to thank photographer Tom Doms for the men’s finals photos. They’re awesome! I’ll upload some more random photos on my Facebook page.

This means that I’m place for the National Championship Bouldering, but I don’t know if I will compete. Boulder competitions just doesn’t satisfy me at this very moment. I want to climb routes! I want to compete at Puurs during the Worldcup. It will take place at the end of September. I can train a lot, climb lots of routes in different climbing gyms and of course climb a few more times at Puurs. Bring it on!

My mission is complete! So far I managed to send all the Upload problems.

I just peddled back and forth to Monk Bouldergym. I recorded myself in this boulder problem. Ulf was funny to climb.

I’m back home, hooked up my camera to my pc and copied this video. What do I do next? Open video edit program, add movie, add random audio, add subs and create new movie in HD. And then I double check if everything is correct and I can start the upload. Just so you know, the longest part of a video, is the upload part.

Anyway, this film is ready to be viewed so enjoy again!

Video: Women’s boulder #2 Ulf

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