Posts Tagged ‘Monk Bouldergym’

Good afternoon you all!

Dust 2015 was a great event yesterday! I was waiting in front of the gym at 9.45 AM, so psyched to climb!

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Photo credits: Chris Waitzman

I wasn’t the only one waiting at the door though. Among a crowd of psyched climbers we were all waiting for the gym to open.

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I felt quite excited when I peeked through the windows and saw Monk was ready to receive 250 (!) climbers.

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And at 10.01 AM the gym doors were open and I was the first climber who received a scoreform!

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Yeah I was ready to climb. Once again my mind was set to climb the most boulders of the day. I didn’t want to spend many attempts on each boulder, simply because there was no time for that. I was aiming to climb boulders which could lose lots of texture after many climbs. After that I spent time on some hard boulder problems. It took me quite some time to finish 8 hard problems. I decided not to spend more than 5 attempts for each hard problem. I think that worked out well.

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After that I spent time on queuing and climbing many problems. I liked many problems, different styles and different kind of holds. Some of the holds were really sharp! Some of the boulder problems I didn’t even try, it would take too much time waiting. The new walls are definitely a nice add on to the gym!

At the end of the day I was quite surprised my skin was still okay. I expected to have bleeding fingers but that didn’t happen. I climbed 78 problems out of 94 total problems. Even though my top 8 wasn’t really high, I was proud at myself of achieving such a list.

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This year Dust felt dustier than ever. In the ranking game I ended up 9th with my top 8 hardest problem. In the All You Can Boulder category I ended up 2nd with 78 problems.

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Tim sent 92, quite impressive! I guess I could call my day a success 😀

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With 4 bags of chalk, I’m good to go for another few weeks 😉 Thank you for the great boulders Monk and thank you Black Diamond for supplying me with chalk 😀

Monk-DustYesterday the 6th edition of Dust open competition was held at Monk Bouldergym! I was quite excited cause I managed to sign up last minute.

I didn’t climb the last few days to save up some energy and some climbing skin on my fingers. I prepared my lunch at home and arrived at the gym 5 to 10. The doors weren’t open yet, but I was psyched to climb! I knew Monk would use new holds and a bunch of new volumes.

When I entered I was one of the first climbers. I received a T-shirt. There was a box full of pencils and topoguides. Monk was ready to receive a lot of climbers today! There were 90 boulders set in total, all spread over the gym.

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I started to warm up on a few easy boulders on the training wall. After that I searched for some vertical wall problems. In my mind I had prepared some strategy to tackle all the problems. My goal for today was to climb as many problems as I could including hard problems.

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After 40 boulders I decided to take short lunch break. It was already quite dusty which was no surprise if you have 250 other climbers around you. After my lunch break I changed climbing shoes. I tried some hard problems. Some of the hard problems took longer than expected, other problems I managed to climb in 1 or 2 attempts. This year some of the 7b and most of the 7c problems were set hard. I tried a few attempts in one lime 8a boulder, but it took too much effort and quite some skin. I was decisive and continued to climb less hard problems.

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At 3 P.M. I wasn’t tired yet. Status from this point: managed to climb 68 boulders so far!

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So I still had 22 boulders to go. Sometimes it takes a while to wait in line because it was too crowded. It was so cool to climb on new holds. I like the new Made by Monk holds in particular the pockets.

Anyway, I was glad I still had skin left on my fingers. The last 2 hours I didn’t climb that many problems. I ended up with 73 boulders out of 90! My best 8 problems had a score of 5800 points. I was wondering if that was good enough to end up in the top 10.

To me it was a daily challenge to climb as many problems as possible. Surprisingly I wasn’t that tired yet. Anyway, I knew there were other climbers trying to climb all the problems as well. Elko was one of them. He managed to climb 1 more boulder, well done!

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When it was time for the price ceremony, I was quite surprised. During the competition I saw Rustam Gelmanov cruising through these hard boulders. He seems really fit to me. I knew Rustam was the best climber of the day, however there was another guy from Belgium who claimed to have climbed all the 90 boulders! That means this guy had won the hardest category and also the most boulders of the day. I think this is just a super lame way to win a price. Why did I just say that? Well, I saw a lot of people climb. The hard boulders are quite obvious however I didn’t see him climb any of them. Usually I don’t care about the results, but to be honest I don’t believe you can climb the hardest boulders and all of the boulders in a few hours.

@Belgian guy: If you climb all the boulders, just like you claimed last year, then I will be happy to climb along with you next year. Obviously I lack technique and power, therefore you can show me how you tackle the hardest problems. Please do contact me. If you climb all the hardest boulders, why won’t you join the boulder Worldcups this year? I’m sure you can win easily 😉

Back to results. I ended up 3rd 2nd in All you can climb category and ended up 7th 6th in the overall score ranking. It was an amazing day with fun boulders.

Update February 3rd 5 P.M.: Did you compete too? Check your result here.

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I’m glad these boulders will stay for a while so I can finish the rest of the boulders on my list. Thanks for the great time everyone. I enjoyed a day of climbing! See you around in Monk.

Opening-MonkLast weekend I drove with Climbcheck founder Joey from Eindhoven to Amsterdam to visit the opening of Monk Bouldergym.

On the backseats Timo and Noortje tagged along. On our way it was windy and snowing. Fortunately we arrived without any trafficjams.

My first impression of the bouldergym was very nice. Free bouldering among lots of enthusiastic people. The boulders were quite diverse and the holds were awesome and raw!

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I was psyched to boulder at Amsterdam. I had a good time among the climbers. The bouldergym looks finished and the bar area was great. The soccertable upstairs is a nice add on. You delivered great work Monk. See you next time!

Video: MXXX

Reset-06Yesterday was my first competition of the year. It was RE-SET round number 6 held at Monk Bouldergym.

This local competition was new to me. The rules are simple. There were 12 problems between 4 and 8a and a time limit between 8 and 11 PM. Try to climb all of them and you were the winner of the day.

I knew about this serie before but I never bothered to join before. My goal was to see if I was fit enough.

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Routesetters Bruno & Michiel

Anyway I was among training buddies and friends. I climbed with Vera who managed to flash the same set of boulders.

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After an hour I had finished them all. There was one nice blue problem on wall number 4 which took me a few attempts and it wasn’t even the hardest problem.

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I think I like such subtle boulders in particular. Overall I find the boulders were quite friendly.

Photo by Bram Berkien

Photo by Bram Berkien

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In the end I wasn’t the only one who sent all the problems. Tim Reuser, Timo Tak and Ties Linders (coincidentally all names starting with a T) managed to send them too. Female winner was Vera Zijlstra. We received a Lapis brush for our effort. Awesome right?

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More or less I think I’m getting fit again. Thank you Monk and training buddies. See you around soon again!

Yesterday I had my usual teamtraining at Monk Bouldergym only this time it was shifted to the morning.

Vera, Wouter, Eva and me were having a nice boulder training. I was super motivated and wanted to train 120%. Sunday I went to Stonage in Brussel which was really nice. Tuesday I trained at Monk, Wednesday at Neoliet Eindhoven and Thursday this training. It was my 3rd climbing day in a row.

It all went well until the last few minutes of the boulder training. We started with some warm up boulder problem followed by a few boulder problems between 6a and 7b, short campus session in between and another 2 rounds of boulder problem solving.

I was doing okay until I fell out of a boulder problem. It was a really interesting boulder problem which I’ll probably never repeat again. I had to cross over with my right arm and at the same time leaning on my left heel.

It was so interesting that Wouter shot some photos which I could use for my blog and at that same time I didn’t want to give up. I was basically sitting on my left heal and bent my knee too far away from me that it had to give up on me.

As I was lying on the mat, I tried to move my toes. I could move my left foot, stretch my leg but my knee hurted a lot. I decided to stop the training and immediately made an appointment with our tied doctor.

Throughout the day my knee started to hurt more. I was able to walk in the afternoon but throughout the day I can’t walk proper anymore. I’m still able to bend my knee really careful but I can’t make certain moves anymore at the moment. For instance walking up the stairs is difficult though. According my doctor my left knee is injured: lateral band is partly torn! That’s all I can say for now.

As for now, I’ll need a to run a MRI scan at the hospital as soon as possible (urgent!) to see what exactly is torn, what I’m capable of, what I’m not capable of, how long it will take to recover and when I can start climbing again.

I’m afraid I have to cancel the national championship boulder for come Saturday at Rotterdam 🙁 I’ll keep you up to date.

The 4th edition of the National Youth Boulder Championship was held today at Monk Bouldergym.

After a short briefing, I could check out my boulder problem. No I wasn’t attending, but I was part of the judge. I was granted boulder number 11 which started in a roof. It represents a 6c and was quite tricky.

Anyway, the concept of climbing this competition has changed into a maximum of 5 attempts for each boulder. The kids had 15 boulders to climb and it went very smooth. I think this concept works really well. The finals went great. This time I won’t post a lot of photos. I’m sure hundred photos of this event will be published on the internet soon. Check out the results here.

I had a great time today and I want to share my compliments to Monk Bouldergym for organising this championship so well!

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