Posts Tagged ‘lead’

Hello climbers!

Recently I have been training for the lead season again. I find it fun to transition my boulder strength into endurance, which means getting totally pumped in the forearms.

The summer weather has motivated me to climb more. I have been climbing a few weeks in a row now to gain endurance. Yesterday was the perfect moment to test myself during the kickoff for the national lead competition.

The two qualification routes went quite well, I collected enough points to advance to the finals.
The first qualification felt relatively easy to me. I think most of the competitors topped this route. The second qualification route felt more bouldery than the first route and was set on a vertical wall.

The final route began with a run start. Nowadays you are seeing a lot of these running problems set on boulders. It was the first time I saw this set in a route. The setter took a small risk there, but fortunately it went well because everyone managed to pass this first part. Anyway, I didn’t want to do this move statically, so I ran and jumped towards the next two holds 🙂 Fortunately I managed to grab the huge jugs and could cruise most of the time in the finals route.

Unfortunately I didn’t top out the route but I enjoyed the climb a lot. I just missed the podium by ending up 4th. Instead of 3 competition routes I climbed almost 10 routes that day and had a lot of fun. In my opinion, having fun is an important factor during a competition day.

Check out the results here. All photos are copyrighted by NKBV.

Would you like to compete too? Sign up here.
See you on the next lead qualification! 😀

September 3rd 2017 – Lead 2 Mountain Network Amsterdam
October 15th 2017 – Lead 3 Grip Klimcentrum, Nijmegen
November 5th 2017 – Lead 4 I-VY Climbing, Sittard

Just about a week ago I participated in the sports national championship.

I had a really relaxing day and I was looking forward to shine and climb. Once I entered the venue in Amsterdam, I was escorted to a separate entrance of the building straight into the isolation area. Before my warm up I enjoyed a take away filled with noodles and fish. Nom nom nom.

The audience was receiving a speech from the climbing federation, while all the competitors were warming up in the isolation.

After 3 hours of iso, we were introduced to the audience and we finally could have a look at the route.

I was impressed by the route! It was a total volume festival. It looked awesome, all I wanted was to get past the big volumes and climb the upper part of the route. The upper part of the route suits my style using heelhooks, compression between hold and pinches. I was hoping I could give everything in this route!

Here is an overview of the route while Casper was climbing.

After 6 minutes of reading the route, we had to go back into the isolation area. I was keeping myself warm and pulled my Petzl Sitta harness and my La Sportiva Skwama’s out of my bag. Once I got on stage, all I wanted to do was to climb and enjoy the route.

In my head I was thinking: “Okay relax, don’t zip on the volumes, look for the right footholds, don’t mess up the sequence and keep on breathing. I visualised a kneebar, now it’s time to execute it. I will put my right foot on the high foothold and drop my knee into the volume.

This works well, now enjoy the route a bit and keep on climbing. I passed the big volumes, bump up with my left hand to the blue side doughnut, then pinch the big volume with my right and make a left heelhook and go for the undercling. Ooh sh*t no, I’m all stretched out between the yellow volume and the blue undercling and suddenly I am stuck in the route!! I can’t go back, if I go back I will miss the hold, if I will match the undercling, it will be game over, there is too much pressure on my right foot, why is this hold set so high above my head?!

Hopefully you understood a bit of what was going through my head. I had mixed feelings about my performance. I could climb a little bit, however I couldn’t give everything in the route as I was hoping for. It was such a pity.

I was not yet pumped, instead I got stuck halfway in the route, ended up stretched out and fell. It was too early to fall in the route. Maybe I should have used a different sequence or maybe I wasn’t strong enough?

Anyway, I enjoyed the route a lot and ended up on the 7th place. The audience gave me a lot of energy. Thank you for supporting me and congratulations to everyone who managed to end up on the podium!

I love the photos. All the credits goes to Zout Fotografie and NKBV. Hopefully next year I can perform at my maximum during the nationals in the brand new Neoliet gym at Utrecht 😀

Hello climbers!

I’m back for an announcement!

This Saturday the sport national championship will take place in Amsterdam. It is the time of the year to witness the best 20 competition climbers in action and I’m one of the performers 😀 The tickets are sold out. But no worries, livestream is available for those who want to tune in.

The reason why I was off the grid was due to a knee injury. Fortunately I recovered from that injury and I have been training like Patxi for the past few months. That means pushing limits while carrying extra weights. I love the transition from bouldering to lead climbing. Anyway, yesterday was my final training and I can’t wait to go a muerte on Saturday!

Update for the provisional program:
19.30h start women’s final
20.45h start men’s final
22.30h price ceremony

I will be in action around 21.10h. Wish me luck! See you on Saturday 😀

The past few weekends I have been visiting Berdorf, which is my favourite forest. I always enjoy nature, especially when it comes down to climbing on sandstone.

I remember the first time I set foot in Berdorf with some climbing friends from Nijmegen. In April 2007 I climbed my first 7c Scramasax in sector Isatis and I was aiming for more beautiful gems.

Sector Takla Makan

DSC08136

Since my first visit I came back to this area many times to repeat the same fun routes. 7 years later my focus changed. Instead of climbing just the popular and the hardest routes in this area, my wish is to climb all the routes within my reach.

DSC08144

According to the 2nd edition of the topoguide Berdorf counts 16 sectors and a special chapter with combinations of lines. Last weekend I managed to finish 2 sectors by climbing the easy routes. So far I finished the sectors Gentiane, Bleausard, Scheffelchen and Takla Makan. Some of the sectors are nearly finished because I only have to climb 1 more route and some of the sectors are unclimbed and still new to me.

Sitta, Saka, Contact

The total sum of routes which are ticked off in my topoguide comes down to 90. My most recent sends can be found here. I’m proud of this number and I can’t wait to climb more outdoor routes in this beautiful forest!

Hi climbers!

As you know the lead season started a month ago. The first lead competition was held in Tilburg. I consider Neoliet Tilburg as one of my home gyms where I like to climb in the amazing roof.

The qualification routes went pretty well. The first route was set in the roof. I had no trouble with the roof climbing and it felt like a warm up route to me. The second route was set on the main wall. It was more a long boulder with a challenging start. Fortunately I could boulder my way up and because of this I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I can cut my story short about the finals. My left foot slipped from the first hold. My attempt was over. I felt unhappy, however I know how to cope with disappointment. Unfortunately I ended up 8th.

After the competition I went to Italy for 2 weeks. I just got back from a relaxing holiday to Arco when 3 days later the 2nd lead competition was held in Amsterdam. I had to change my focus from rock to plastic in a short period of time. Before the competition I climbed routes in Tilburg and had another boulder session in Monk. With a rest day in between the climbing sessions I was hoping for a peak moment during the competition.

This competition was held in Mountain Network Amsterdam. The first route was easy, I topped this route without getting pumped in my forearms. The second route went really well until I fell on the last move. I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I had plenty of time to prepare for the finals. The route contained a lot of moves. My endurance level was being tested during my climb. I could climb and fight until I was totally pumped in my forearms.

Finals

I ended up 2nd which currently places me 3rd in the overall ranking. I’m happy with the result and will try to keep my place or advance to the top!

Truong-w-medal

For now there are no lead competitions planned. The next one will take place in September, at Rock Steady Bussum. After that the last competition at I-VY Climbing Sittard in October. I will keep you posted 🙂

Hey everyone!

Yesterday was the big show in Amsterdam. I hope all of you had fun to see the best competition climbers at work! If not, watch it here again.

Livestream lead nationals 2015

This championship was an important day on my calendar. Since I entered the lead competition, I was serious about competing, wanting to fight and win. I marked this day as a highpoint to see how fit I am at the moment.

Warming up in the iso for 2 hours seemed no problem. Despite my fever, cold and cough last week, I could set my mind to relax and focus on this one route.

Presentation

When I arrived at the gym, I was really curious what kind of route Tonde had set for us. My first impression of the route was: this route is set for me, this is all about compression, a lot of volumes, awesome!! The holds looked big, maybe one crux near the long snake hold into an undercling, but with good feet work I should be able to manage that. I used my monocular to check out the holds on top.

silhouette

The beginning was hard to see, because I was standing just below the route, moving to left or right didn’t really improve the view.
In short, the route looked really cool. I couldn’t wait to climb in this ambiance, with so many people cheering, among supporters and friends!

Walking back to isolation, my head was set to competition mode. It was time to wear my harness, pick the right shoes and wait for my turn.

Once I entered the gym, I was really looking forward to climb! I didn’t want to climb too fast or too slow. The first 3 draws were no problem at all. I was even able to find a good rest position in the beginning by sitting on this huge volume with my foot. From here I moved onwards to the next volume. The next step was a big move, where I moved my right hand first and went for a jump.

NKLead

Photocredits: Sytse van Slooten

Once my feet didn’t get any pressure anymore it felt like I was pulled away from the wall. I didn’t see the hold on top of the volume, just a vague tickmark. It happened all too fast before I realized what had happened. I was back on the floor.

My thoughts right after the climb: What the F@##!%$#@%!$#!!??@

I wanted to express my feeling by screaming out loud, throwing my shoes against the wall or throw away my chalkbag, but no I’m not like that and so I remained calm 🙁 I was really disappointed in myself. I should’ve jumped with 2 hands, one aiming for the tickmark, the other aiming for the corner of the volume.

When I untied the rope, Ulf told me the same had happened to him. I was hoping no one else would struggle so early in the route. There are risks taken if a route is set like this. A risky show element is fun for everyone, however in my opinion not so early in the route. I think the crowd would have been more entertained if they could have seen the climbers fight all the way in the route!

After my performance it was Gerke’s turn. He trained a year for this and I was hoping for him he wouldn’t struggle at the same move. Unfortunately, he fell at the same volume, making exactly the same mistake. I felt really sorry for him. Fortunately, the rest of the climbers could manage this move easy without any trouble.

I was wondering what the audience was thinking. I let everyone down; my family, my friends and my supporters. I wasn’t able to fight or enjoy the route. At that moment I had so many questions going through my mind. Is this what I have trained for the past few weeks? I spent many hours in the gym for this. Does this mean I am weak? How far would Ulf, Gerke and I get if we all passed this move? Was I able to top the route if I managed that move? Did I climb too safe? Did I make a reading mistake? I don’t know, but I do know that I wasn’t fucking pumpy or could fight before I fell out of the route. The way I deal with my performance during and after the competition is also part of competition climbing. 1 tiny mistake and you’re out of the game.

The route was set magnificently, no doubt about that. After the competition I had a short evaluation with chiefsetter Tonde Katiyo and asked him about his thoughts. In short: he felt sorry for us but he was satisfied about the route.

Tonde

In the end the learned lessons are: better luck next time and perhaps walk into the space of the audience to check out the holds of the route.

I ended up 8th yesterday which doesn’t satisfy me at all. Click here to view the results. I still feel disappointed about my result, knowing that this was just a snapshot. Instead of a highpoint, it felt like a lowpoint to me. In the week before the nationals I was doubting about participating because I had a severe cold. So in that respect I’m happy that I was part of the nationals. However, I
would have loved to have climbed higher and show how far I could have gotten.

Anyway, thank you for all the love and support. I hope I pleased the crowd and I’m happy for the climbers who were able to fight, shine and climb yesterday!

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