Posts Tagged ‘Klimax’

Every Tuesday afternoon I train at Monk bouldergym.

Today however we went to another location namely Puurs Klimax. You know what that means, many long routes!

My prep was successful. Rope from Climbing Technology, Boreal climbingshoes, chalkbag, harness, Berghaus team clothing and ready to go.

The CTO bus was already parked at Monk. Even Jorg Verhoeven was present, well not physically but just as a sticker on the bus.

As you can see, we went climbing with a big group.

At Puurs, I climbed about 6 routes. Not that much though, I’m not recovered yet from my elbow injury. Coach Wally observed me and told me I should keep on moving, from one hold to another hold, where my feet should automatically position in the right direction to make the next movement. I think I should have less doubts during climbing however that might not be visible during all the routes.

Unfortunately we had to leave on time. Again Jorg showed off his climbing style at Puurs…

Hopefully we can train together more often in different climbing gyms. See you next time!

It is Saturday morning and again I need to get up early.

Just before my alarm goes off I’m already awake and my left arm feels sore in my triceps. I take a hot shower and pack my stuff. My notebook is still on bed and I need to wrap it up. Every day I write about my adventures. By the time I’ll be back at home it will only take a minute to upload it to my webpage. It just takes a lot of time to pick photos and write a story, but I’d like to keep my site up to date.

Anyway, it’s quarter to 8 and it’s time to eat breakfast. I see Nikki sitting at a round table. Her hair looks tight, which means she is set in competition mode. I serve myself a currant bun with some muesli, yogurt and a cup of tea.

Wally joins us for breakfast. During our breakfast we stare at this amazing lake at the backyard of the hotel. Today there are few gooses, swans or ducks at the lake.

After 20 minutes we are done with our breakfast. I’m going to get my bags to check out of the hotel. I return their access card and we’re on our way to the competition venue.

When we arrive at the climbing gym we have ample time. I receive another lunch bag and pass it on to Wally. Nikki and I have plenty of time to warm up.

We climb about 5 routes and then head on to the boulder area. We finish our warming up with some dynamic moves. I am warmed up properly.

It’s time to observe the route. The men’s category are gathering at the stairs. I run back to grab my sweater. Wally is concerned and lend out his thick winter jacket. He is staying in the isolation area. We are about to observe the route, we have 6 minutes to figure out the proper sequence. I take a good look at the holds and visualise myself in the route. Jorg and I are preparing the route and the sequence looks quite obvious.

We’re out of time and we are sent back to the isolation area. I reckon a specific hold in the route. I slipped away from this hold at Imst. While I put on my harness, all I can think about is the route. I’m ready to climb this route.

I have to get ready because I need to climb soon. In the isolation area the judges are checking upon my knot. They’ll carry my bags when it’s my turn. I walk down the stairs and look at the route. I wave to the crowd and there is some cheering for me. Okay, it’s time to climb.

Truong Ngo, semi finals WC Puurs

The first few holds feel pretty good. Small crimps with okay foot holds. The route starts not too difficult, because I can make all the movements.

Truong Ngo in action, semi finals WC Puurs

Truong Ngo in action, semi finals WC Puurs

I’m confident I can carry on like this. Then I have to grab these small crimps and swing my left foot onto a foothold which is set on a big orange volume. I can barely reach the foot hold and have to give it another try with my stomach muscles. Then I have to continue to a round hold, I have to pinch that hold. When I go to that hold, I try to control my movement. Static I try to reach the hold with my left hand. I can’t reach it and fall out of the route. What a bummer, I should’ve thrown myself to that hold. I should’ve gotten higher in this route.

I observe other climbers and see that they’re throwing themselves to that hold. I can’t wait to give it another try. Eventually I end up 26th, last place in the semis. I’m satisfied with my result because I managed to advance to the semis but on the other hand I’m somewhat disappointed in myself when I look at this competition. I accept my result and need some distraction.

I’m going to sign up for a dyno contest.

Between the semis and the finals they’re organising a dyno contest. Unfortunately the weather isn’t cooperating. Sometimes it’s pouring rain and sometimes the sun is shining.

I’m not good at this and reach a silly score of 2.10 meter. This event draws a lot of attention, the winner will get 400 euro. Too bad me and my team members weren’t able to win this price.

The finals were fun. Despite the weather it was pretty crowded.

Below you’ll see the winners of the Worldcup event at Puurs. Check out the end results here.

Women top 8

Men top 8

And of course I managed to get a photo with the top 3 winners!

Jain Kim (nr. 1) & Truong Ngo

Truong Ngo & Ramón Julian Puigblanque (nr. 1)

Truong Ngo & Mathilde Brumagne (nr. 2)

Truong Ngo & Jakob Schubert (nr. 2)

Truong Ngo & Angela Eiter (nr. 3)

Truong Ngo & Adam Ondra (nr. 3)

I slept well. I’m taking a hot shower in the morning and get myself ready to leave to the competition. I check my bags and leave everything I won’t need at the hotel. Alright, it’s time to get some breakfast.

I run down the stairs and enter the restaurant part. Nikki already started her breakfast. I’m going to pick a nice chocolate bun, some muesli, yogurt and grab myself a cup of tea.

Wouter and Tim are joining us and we’re having a nice breakfast together. After breakfast we’re driving to the venue. At the climbing gym it seems pretty crowded. When I check in, I receive a start number and a lunch bag. Many climbers are warming up already and there are televisions and computers to observe the demonstration of the qualifications.

I’m going to check the competition wall outside. My attention goes to the 2nd qualification route, which is the black route at the right side of the wall. I’m looking around and notice that Jorg and Elko are present as well. I’m looking at the holds with Jorg and together we’re figuring out the right sequence. It looks pretty nice. There are lots of big holds with many footholds.

I’m going to warm up inside and traverse horizontal on the wall. I feel like climbing some routes and put on my harness. None of my team members is wearing a harness. Perhaps one of the Austrian team members would like to belay me. Jakob Schubert is cool and he’s willing to belay me, how nice of him.

Wally is trying to get my attention and together we’re observing how David Lama is climbing the 2nd qualification route. I have little time left to warm up. I should get pumped in a route but there is no time. It’s my turn to climb my first qualification route.

I’m sitting on a chair in front of the route, waiting until it’s my turn to climb. Monique Stuut, an official judge, is standing in front of me. She checks up on my tag and I can sense her staring at me. All I can think about now is the route and its movements.

The route is quite nice until I get to this undercling. My left arm is getting pumped! I have to climb to the right and barely fix this hold. I need to match my left hand and I’m going to make a heel hook with my left foot. Then I have to jump to this big hold on my right. It feels pretty heavy. I’m going for it but unfortunately I can’t control the swing. I’m back on the floor, my left arm feels pumped and my right arm isn’t pumped. It was a hard movement there. I should’ve warmed up properly.

It’s time to digest some food. I’m going to eat a Powerbar and a currant bun and drink lots of water. In the mean time I’m encouring my team members but they are having the same problem and are not able to pass those movements. I’m concentrating on my second qualification route. It’s a yellow route and it looks quite technical. I believe you should climb this route with control, there is no room for mistakes.

I’m trying to memorize the route and talk to Wouter about the first crux. The placement of your hands on a volume is important. I need to lock off my arm on this volume in order to continue and reach the next hold. I’m going to warm up again and traverse horizontal on the wall.

Route demonstration on tv

Soon it’s my turn again. I’m wiping my shoes on my pants before I enter the wall. I chalk my hands and look at the route one more time. The route is set for me. I feel quite relaxed when I climb. At the moment my only goal is to last longer than my first route. It seems to work, I concentrate on the next few holds and shake my arms. I should enjoy this route, sometimes I forget about that during a competition. It will be all fine. Once again I get to an undercling, I can rest well in this position and shake my arms. I know the next few movements are pretty tough because I’ve seen others fall out of the route at this point. I’m going for the next hold, then match with my left hand. Now continue with my right hand again to this hold which is very positive. I have to go to the left, the next hold is pretty far away and I’m trying to grab this small hold with my left hand. It is too small and I have to abort my movement to the left. I’m falling out of the route! Darn, I wasn’t even able to fight in this route. What a bummer, it went so nice! When I’m on the floor, I look upon the wall. What is going on? This is not enough to get me to the finals.

When I change my clothes I receive a text message from Timo Tak. Well done, with some luck you might make it to the semis! I was a bit surprised, how is that possible? I didn’t climb that much and yet there is a chance to advance to the semis.

It’s only a matter of time until the rest of the climbers are finished. The end result was a 23rd place for me. 26 people are going to the semis and I’m one of them! Hahah awesome!

Judges calculating end results

Qualification results

I’ll have another chance to prove myself on Saturday. My first semis will be at Puurs. Hopefully I’m able to climb much better than today.

My phone is vibrating in my pocket when I was at work. Thursday morning I received a text message from Wally. He requested if I could leave the big team suitcase at home due to little space in our rental car. No problem Wally, I still had to pack my stuff anyway.

At noon I was done at work and wish my colleagues a good day. I’m on my way to Eindhoven to pack my stuff. When I arrive at home, I need to find myself a bag which is good enough for 2 days at Belgium. I found a nice bag which I haven’t used yet.
First I pack my orange Falcon competition shoes. Then I’ll look for the rest of my climbing gear and grab 2 team shirts and some clothes. I’ll bring my notebook too, perhaps I’ll have internet access at my hotel. I’m nearly finished, all I had to do was updating my ipod with some new beats.

At half past 3 I was done packing and peddled my way to Monk. I was in time. At the parking lot I spot a new small car, a Peugeot 107. Hmm, this should be our rental car that Wally was talking about. I park my bike at Monk and try to find Wally. He is having a training session with Vera.
Meanwhile Nikki arrived too. She brought the huge team suitcase and another bag with her. I wonder what she packed with her, we’re only gone for 2 days. Anyway, she’s a woman and I suppose she needs a lot of stuff.

We’re trying to fit all our luggage in this car on the parking lot. It nearly fits in the car.

Our hotel is booked at Mechelen. Thanks to our navigation we could easily locate the hotel.

I leave my luggage at the hotel and we’re on our way to the center for a restaurant. We are going to meet the Austrian team. Their description of the restaurant: it’s near a church and the restaurant is called De Met.

Well for your info, Mechelen has a lot of churches and sometimes I felt like we were lost because we exploring around the wrong church. I was surprised that the neighbourhood looked nice, because sometimes Belgium can be really ugly.

We asked 2 random guys if they knew about the restaurant. After 10 minutes we finally found it. The restaurant was indeed located in front of a church…

We entered the restaurant and the Austrian team was already seated at a long table. Jorg was somewhere in between among the Austrian team. Wally, Nikki and I ordered dinner and suprisingly we got served first. What a service. I had a nice cutlet for dinner, actually it was a bit too much but I didn’t mind.

After dinner we went back to the hotel. Team member Tim Reuser will join us in the evening. At the hotel Wally was trying to find out our start number. There was internet available but we had to pay for it. We found another solution. Wally called a few people in his network and found out our start number. My start number was 26 and 7. The rest of the Dutch people will climb after me. I won’t worry about it too much, because the routes are flash anyway.

Well, tomorrow we’ll have breakfast at half past 8 and it’s time to get some rest. See you later.


The Flanders World Cup Puurs is the fourth manche of the World Cup Championship 2010. Come Friday will be my second Worldcup competition. It will be held in Belgium.

Below you’ll see the provisional program of the worldcup:

Thursday 23rd September 2010
17:30 Internal meeting IFSC officials, routesetters, judges and Worldcup organization: Place: Climbing hall KLIMAX (Competition venue)
18:30 – 20:00 Confirmation of registered competitors (Place: Climbing hall KLIMAX (Competition venue).
20:00 Technical Meeting (Place: Climbing hall KLIMAX (Competition venue).

Friday 24th September 2010
08:30 Reconfirmation of the registered competitors and opening of the warming-up zone
10:00 End of reconfirmation of the registered competitors1
11:00 Start Qualification men and women (estimated duration till 17hrs)

Saturday 25th September 2010
08:30 Opening Isolation Semifinals round men and women
09:45 Closing isolation Semifinal round men and women
10:20 Observation men
10:30 Observation women
10:45 Start Semifinals men and women
11:00 to 14:00 Registration Dyno world record contest
14:30 Dyno world record contest
15:00 Isolation zone closed for Finals
16:00 Award ceremony Dyno world record contest
17:10 Presentation finalists and observation Final round men and women
17:30 Start Final round (first women, then men)
19:30 Award Ceremony
20:00 Free Diner for competitors/coaches, offered by the organizing federation
21:30 The one and only Goldfinger Party

You can find the start list here. Shortly before the start of the qualifications (on Friday the 24 of september) a startlist will be published. It will be possible to follow the competition by live streaming. To check out livestream, click here.

Top Climbing Holland joined me for a day of climbing. Or should I say I joined TopCH. Oh well, most of them are my team members anyway. Together with Elko, Tim, Bob, Nikki and Lisa we went climbing at Klimax Puurs.

About 1 PM we arrived at the climbing gym. It was so quiet, nearly no one around!

I wanted to climb a lot of routes so I got myself ready.

Ready to climb

Nikki van Bergen

Bob Schubert

Elko Schellingerhout

Tim Reuser

Dad & Lisa Berends

Tim Reuser

Nikki’s parents

Truong

Truong

After 5 hours of climbing we were done climbing. This was a nice training session for September. I’ll return to compete in the Worldcup which will be held in this climbing gym. We didn’t climb all the routes though, however we climbed lots of routes.

TopCH, I hope you enjoyed climbing with me. Thanks and see you soon.

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