Posts Tagged ‘Klimax’

Last Friday I woke up at 6.30 AM and went back to sleep for another hour.

At 8 AM I had breakfast on the first floor. In the breakfast room there were a lot of Austrians too. Nikki and Wouter were already having breakfast.

After breakfast we went to pick up Tabitha and drove to the climbing venue. The routes were set outside in the big overhanging gym.

There were a lot of new holds, which made me curious!

The first for me was a yellow route and the second route was a black route. The first part of the route went well and I managed to climb until the roof.

From there I had a pocket with my left hand, clipped a quickdraw and went to another pinch for my right. I changed my foot position and crossed under to another pinch. From here I had to slab to this huge hold with a hole in it. But I didn’t get that far, cause I slabbed next to the hole! I thought the tickmark was going a bit more to the left. It was such a pity, cause I know I could do so much better than this. So far my first route. I had to make up for this in my second route.

At 3 PM was my second route with black holds. It was set on the right side of the climbing gym. This route looked funny. I was relaxing and climbed my way up until I got my right hand on this sloper hold.

It was only the 8th hold I think. I matched it quick and placed my left foot on this huge hold. From there I figured I should go dynamic to a pinch which was quite reachy. It didn’t work out for me. During my movement I suddenly stopped. I don’t know why. I was mad at myself. It went so good until this far move.

I should have locked off my right arm and I know I could have reached it with my left hand but I didn’t. I was copying this Korean guy I saw before and it didn’t work for me.

I ended up last in the ranking. This was a performance to forget very soon! I don’t know what to do. I do feel super motivated to train harder now. The rest of the event was nice. Nikki and Jorg advanced to the semis which was a good performance. Jorg even made the finals and ended up 6th!

Video: Going down like a boss

Check my Facebook page to see the other 80 photos of the event. After the finals I had some free dinner and played some soccer with Jorg and the Austrian team 🙂 I do have a note on how to improve the competition next time in Puurs. I think the speaker of the event should either work on his speaker style or turn off the microphone. The rest of the event was super!

Yesss here I’m back again. I just returned from a dinner at Mechelen (BEL) with Nikki, Tabitha, Elko and Wouter. We are sleeping here in a hotel at Mechelen. I ran into Jain Kim (room next to me) and also some Austrians are sleeping in the same hotel. It will be a cozy breakfast tomorrow!

We are here because we’ll compete tomorrow (Friday 21st and Saturday 22nd of September) in a worldcup at Puurs. It is the 4th lead worldcup this year.

Tomorrow I’ll compete and start as climber number 15 in my first route and 35th in my second qualification route.

With a total of 39 competitors it is a whole different field compared to last week in France. There will be a lot of strong climbers, so I hope the routes will be really cool.

According the program the routes will start from 11.00 AM till 17.00 hours. I suppose I’ll climb around noon 12.00 o’clock in my first route!

I’m really psyched!! Come support us at Puurs. Or else you can watch at home via the livestream or at the official Flanders Worldcup Puurs webpage!

I’m heading off to bed. Goodnight from Belgium and see you tomorrow!

Hey everyone!

I almost forgot I was having a webpage! Anyway, I have a major update from Worldcup Puurs. I’m too late with this update, because the event was about a month ago.

Thursday 29th of September, Wally, Nikki and I left from Eindhoven to Belgium. We drove in a Volkswagen, which somewhat had more legspace than the prior small Peugeot 107 from last year. It accelerated pretty well, using 6 shifts and we had the luxury of airconditioning!

It was quite necessary though, the weather was superb. It was quite unusual to have such a weather at the end of September but I really enjoyed it. I had a bag full of stuff with me, whereas Nikki brought a big suitcase plus a big bag with her. It looked like she had packed for 3 weeks, while we suppose to leave for just 2 days from home.

On our way we got stuck in traffic jam, but not that long. It took us 30 minutes longer than usual and then arrived at our hotel at Mechelen. Our hotel was situated in a side street of the main market.

After checking in, we dropped our luggage in our rooms and went for a bite. It was already 7.30 in the P.M.

During dinner Wally managed to register us at the technical meeting. While we’re waiting for dinner, team member Jorg joined our table. He finally arrived after a long journey.

Later that evening fysio Tom arrived as well. He took care of us before we went to bed. Jorg and I shared a hotel room, next to our room was Nikki´s room.

Wally and Tom shared a room on another floor.

Before I went to sleep, I flipped some channels on tv. There was nothing interesting on. Jorg took control of the remote and we watched Jersey Shore on MTV. A nice episode to end this evening though.

In the morning we´re suppose to meet at 9 for breakfast. From the first floor I took the stairs down, because I expected there was a breakfast room on the main floor. But I forgot I was in Belgium, so they pointed me towards the 3rd floor for a breakfast room.

Hmm, quite logical right?

After breakfast we left to the climbing gym.

Once we arrived team member Elko Schellingerhout and Rachèl Nilwik were present too. I tried to figure out which route was my first route. There was a black route on the right and a yellow route on the left. I focused on the black route. It looked nice, but in the roof it was set impossible.

Inside I warmed up with Jorg.

He started with a 7c as warm up, makes you get a good flashpump. That’s a nice way to prepare for a competition route. On the startlist I was next after Jorg. It was a matter of counting down the minutes.

Once in a while I kept myself moving by traversing on the wall. I watched a video of the qualifications. There was a small room available where demos of the qualifications were projected non stop on the wall.

After 2 times you get so bored and walk away.

It was nearly my turn. I went outside, gave the route a quick peek and was ready to climb. Once I left the ground, it was a matter of going all out to the next hold. At the first module there was an undercling which you had to match, I zipped and almost fell out of the route but I managed to focus well and kept my body close to the wall. My feet went back in the wall on the holds and continued. Matching this sloper hold was exciting but I managed well. Then I arrived at this big volume, just below the roof. I could rest for a bit but not for long. When I continued to a pinch, I tried to put my left foot next to my left hand. I couldn’t match it somehow and I was convinced I could do this. I was unable to put my foot so high and fell out of the route. Bummer, it didn’t work! What did I do wrong? I wasn’t pumped or tired. Later I saw another hold in the roof and if you grab that hold with your left hand, then it was possible to swing your foot on top of the module. It was so stupid of me to forget about this hold, I didn’t even see it!

After the route I could get an arm massage. CTO fysio Tessa was present as well. I picked Tom, I believe he can pinch harder and that was just what I needed at that moment.

The second route was a yellow route. I just saw Elko climbing and falling. It was a crux from this intermediair hold to a pinch. Unfortunately his route ended at this point and stood back on the ground. After 2 hours it was my turn in this route. Again Jorg was first and he climbed pretty well in this route! Good enough to advance to the semis. I looked at the start and saw it was annoying. There was a foothold just below the starting hold, so you had to go dynamic and crossover at the first movement. It was dirty but I managed to do that. Carefully I matched a big sized hold and swung my feet to the other side and continued on this grey module. This module was quite dirty but I had to use it. Then I had to put my left foot high on the module and conduct a insecure jump to the next small hold. The next hold was quite far. I had to put my left foot high on this grey module and go dynamic. There were lots of annoying movements in this route where I felt I could barely reach it. It didn’t stop, again going dynamic to a small sized yellow hold on a module. Wow I was quite surprised how dirty this hold was when I matched it. I put my feet together on 1 hold below me. From this position I had to clip the rope. It took me quite some effort and it felt impossible to rest. Quickly I continued to this hold on my shoulder, and to continue I had to put my right foot next to my right hand. And grabbing this intermediair hold to continue to a pinch. I managed to pinch it but it wasn’t enough. Too bad! What did I achieve? Nothing. No satisfaction at all, just frustration..

Only Jorg managed to advance to the semis and even to the finals and ended up 7th.

I recorded his climbing moments and put it online.

Jorg Verhoeven in the semis, WC Puurs 2011

Jorg Verhoeven in the finals, WC Puurs 2011

Counting my 2 half routes, which makes 1 total route it wasn’t enough to advance to the semis. The routes are set that well that each hold counts. In my situation, that meant 3 holds more and I would’ve got myself in the semis! I ended up 34th from all 45 climbers. A result to forget right away. Elko ended up 28th, Rachèl ended up 29th and Nikki 30th. The rest of the results are here.

The award ceremony at the end!

What I like about Worldcups, is to see the top climbers at work. They climb so well and it looks like they take a lot of risks. I could learn a lot from observing. It was just super to be there, despite my sucky climbing moments. There were lots of side events, slacklining, dyno-ing, enough to keep yourself busy when no one was climbing!

Usually I get a lot of energy and motivation to train after a Worldcup when I get back home. However, after this Worldcup I had a meeting at the jaw surgeon. That went well but because of the painkillers afterwards I felt like I was weak and therefore felt less motivated to train past month. And that resulted into laziness and didn’t want to keep my blog up to date. Anyway, I’m back and fixed my desktop and started to write like a maniac.

Meanwhile 2 Worldcups past by and team member Jorg competed in Boulder (USA) and ended up 5th. Well done Jorx! Below you’ll see an impressive video from this Worldcup at Boulder.

2011 IFSC Lead World Cup – Boulder

The other Worldcup took place 2 days ago at Amman, Jordania. None of Dutch people attended here though. No surprising results because the unbeatable Austrian Jakob Schubert managed to win again and the small Spanish Ramon Puigblanque received silver and the Japanese Sachi Amma got bronze.

I’ve decided to join the next Worldcup. It will take place within a week at Valence, which is about 1,5 hours south of Lyon in France.

Come week I’ll keep you up to date! You’ll be receiving more Worldcup news from me. I’m going to climb and enjoy this weekend! See you around.

Tomorrow will be the IFSC Lead World Cup Puurs at Belgium!!

I can’t wait to pull plastic holds again in Puurs! Team members Jorg Verhoeven, Elko Schellingerhout, Nikki van Bergen and I will be attending this competition. Rachel Nilwik will reinforce the club. Coach Wally will coach us during the competition. We shall represent The Netherlands.

This afternoon I’ll leave from Eindhoven to Belgium. Tomorrow the qualifications will take place between 11.00 A.M. and 5 P.M. More info about the provisional program can be found here!

Come support us in Puurs. Live or through livestream. See you tomorrow!

After an invitation from Rachel from Facebook, we realised our plan and went climbing at Puurs Klimax together!

From Breda Yvonne and I were lucky enough to join Pascal, Mirthe and Viola. Unfortunately we got stuck in traffic jam on the highway E19. Finally after 2 hours of driving we arrived at the climbing venue.

The weather was super! When we arrived at the climbing gym, we weren’t the only Dutch crew. Another big group of Dutch people from Heerlen arrived early in the morning. They started climbing at 10 A.M. already. Bunch of die hard climbers! 10 minutes before we arrived, a few team members arrived as well: Nikki, Elko and Tabitha. In total we were with a group of 13 Dutch people in Belgium! We set a nice record on a regular Saturday right?

I changed clothes quick, ate a sandwich and started climbing! I believe it was about 28 degrees, however when I was climbing it felt way hotter. I didn’t have a concrete plan though. I just wanted to climb some hard routes through the roof. That went pretty well!

Climbing in Puurs is quite unique. It’s a different style, a style you definitely need to get used to. Most of the routes are challenging and getting harder at the end. Nonetheless it’s really cool to climb here, it’s a nice way to practice your clipping skills. Falling out of the roof is also something you have to get used to. I like it though, I don’t think about falling, which is good so I can focus on the route!

Mirthe took more photos than me, which is quite unusual. You can view her photos here.

Anyway, enough about Puurs. Here is my yesterday’s climbing ticklist: 6a, 6a, 6a, 7a, 7b+, 7c, attempt 8a, attempt 8a and ended with a 7a. I trained well and I’m sure I’m not the only one who felt good about it! I want to climb often at Puurs, the environment feels more comfortable though. It’s a good sign for the Worldcup Lead, which is pretty soon on my calendar!

Every Tuesday afternoon I train at Monk bouldergym.

Today however we went to another location namely Puurs Klimax. You know what that means, many long routes!

My prep was successful. Rope from Climbing Technology, Boreal climbingshoes, chalkbag, harness, Berghaus team clothing and ready to go.

The CTO bus was already parked at Monk. Even Jorg Verhoeven was present, well not physically but just as a sticker on the bus.

As you can see, we went climbing with a big group.

At Puurs, I climbed about 6 routes. Not that much though, I’m not recovered yet from my elbow injury. Coach Wally observed me and told me I should keep on moving, from one hold to another hold, where my feet should automatically position in the right direction to make the next movement. I think I should have less doubts during climbing however that might not be visible during all the routes.

Unfortunately we had to leave on time. Again Jorg showed off his climbing style at Puurs…

Hopefully we can train together more often in different climbing gyms. See you next time!

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