Posts Tagged ‘Freyr’
Last week I received a text message on my mobile phone from Timo Tak. He’s back in town and felt like climbing outdoors. Although the weather forecast wasn’t that good I’d accepted his invitation to climb outdoors. Once in a while you need to take a risk to climb outdoors.
8 in the AM I was ready to go. I packed my harness, climbing shoes, quickdraws and enough food with me. A little later Timo arrived in his dark marine Peugeot. He was just in time, that’s how I reckon Timo.
2 hours and 15 minutes later we arrived at Freyr. Surprisingly it was dry! We noticed the parking lot was full of cars.
After some warm up routes, we were looking for long difficult routes.
We climbed about 4 hours at Freyr. Unfortunately the weatherman was correct and it started to rain a lot. We hoped for dry weather, better luck next time.
Oh well, we had fun climbing. Soon we’ll be back to finish our route.
Sunday evening I received a few text messages from Paul.
P: Hey Truong, feel like going to Freyr tomorrow?
T: Hey Paul! Yes that seems nice! What time are you leaving?
P: About 10 o’clock or half past 10 at Maastricht. Is that ok to you?
T: Ok, I’ll be there and text you later when I catch the train.
P: Okay, we’ll be there. Cool!
When I shared my plans with coach Wally, I was good to go. I packed my bags, took a shower, slept and got up early again. My gear was ready to rock’n roll.
In the morning I wasn’t fully recovered from my Sunday training session with Vera Zijlstra at Monk. My mind was totally set to outdoor climbing. It was my first time to climb outdoors again this year. While I’m in my train on the way to Maastricht, I can only think of nice memories from last year.
At Maastricht Paul Lahaye, Isolde Toet and Marieke Broertjes are waiting for me in front of the station. I enter the car while all of them are distracted by a climber with a helmet who passed by the car. Paul is racing to Freyr and within an hour we are able to enjoy a nice cup of coffee and some tea at Chamonix restaurant.
After our drink, we went to the rocks. The weather conditions were good, 6 or 7 degrees. When Paul and I walked into the woods, Isolde and Marieke decided to visit a different area to climb some rocks. Our track was a huge mud track. Fortunately I was well prepared and left my Nike sneakers at home.
Followed by 2 warm up routes Paul wanted to explore Tabula Rasa, 8a. Paul managed to set the quickdraws by a route next to this line. I climbed first, it was a nice way to test my onsight level. The movements are nice but at some height I wasn’t able to climb further. I saw mini holds without any food holds. The route appeared to be Jolie Promenade, 8b instead of Tabula Rasa. It wasn’t our intention to explore this route so we reset the quickdraws.
My second attempt to explore Tabula Rasa went fine until I felt the crux. I was empty and let Paul explore this route. Paul managed well, he climbed too much in Spain lately and he had to get used to Belgium rocks. Isolde and Marieke joined us and encouraged Paul in his route. Again we made a mistake, the route splits up to left and right. Paul picked the wrong end and ended up exploring Esperanza, 8b+. Later a local explained which line belongs to which routes.
I felt like some food after climbing some vertical routes. We had dinner at Chamonix restaurant. We caught up and in the evening we drove back to The Netherlands. Hopefully next time we will be able to climb the correct route.
The weather was strange in Freyr. I tagged along with Timo Tak to Belgium. It was somewhat foggy and wet at some places. When we arrived at restaurant Chamonix, the climate was foggy and moist. We still wanted to check out the rocks and went forward to Le Pape and Tête du Lion.
The rocks felt cold. We warmed up in a nice route on Le Pape. Soon Timo felt like climbing Heroïne 7a+ and managed to send it onsight. Well done, however the friction was super. I picked another route Bonsai 8a, but unfortunately I couldn’t set a quickdraw. I was unable to set it from my position. Then Timo wanted to climb God Save The Queen 8a onsight. He almost succeeded!
After Timo’s attempt I was working out Le Pilier Davaille 7b+. The movements were nice. At the end of the route I was exploring the extension, the roof. The roof didn’t have many positive holds. I gave up on the roof. I took a short break and ate a few grapes while sitting in the sun. Then I went back and I managed to send this route. Yes another route for my ticklist.
Now it was Timo’s turn again. He felt a bit tense because he knew he could send God Save The Queen. He didn’t feel so well and after a short break with some toilet paper he felt relieved and managed to send the route!
Although the cold and foggy climate we still enjoyed our time on the rocks. See you next time Freyr!
Today I went by train to Maastricht. I was going to climb outdoors again with Paul Lahaye at Freyr. According to Paul, Freyr should have good weather conditions this day. During our trip it rained a lot but at our destination it was surprisingly dry.
However, before heading off to the rocks we both gathered at Chamonix restaurant for a hot cup of tea and coffee. After refreshments we went to Paul’s project to set his quickdraws. I warmed up in a nice route near his project. Soon we were walking towards le Pape where I wanted to send my project, Analsazi 8a. My first go of the day went nice but yet I needed 2 attempts for this route. That felt good, I just sent my third 8a and can add it to my ticklist!
Next was Bansai 8b, I was working in this route and figured that the movements would be more difficult. After taking a break we went back to Paul’s project. He managed to send his route, Mephisto 7c! It went so nice and steady, even he was surprised. Our day was perfect.
I wanted to start my attempt in Bansai, so we went back to le Pape. I gave it a shot but I had put my feet at the wrong footholds at the crux and therefore failed in climbing the route. Paul suggested I enjoy the route and everything will be okay. Paul’s suggestion proved to be very helpful and with that motivation I started my second attempt. I felt great and just tried to enjoy the weather while I was climbing. And I succeeded, the crux and the movements went steady. I sent my first 8b, nice to add that one to my ticklist.
It was a fun day for Paul and me. I enjoyed climbing outdoors. Climbing between weekdays at Freyr is so nice. We ended our day with a dinner at Chamonix and soon I’ll be back for some more challenges!
Today I spent another day climbing outdoors with family Fuchs and Ulf Lennertz at Freyr. I have somewhat more time and try to train more serious to climb projects outdoor. I still had to send a project from last time when I was here.
And today it was my day, I managed to send John Bee Delight Watch 8a. It felt amazing, I even had some energy left and wanted to send another route, Analsazi 8a. This route went very well, even the crux wasn’t that difficult. But at the very end, my foot slipped away, just a few meters before the anchor! Oh well, better luck next time when I return to Freyr.
Ulf and Heidi were working out Heroine 7a. Heidi did very well but unfortunately she couldn’t climb the whole route at once. Ulf did send the route and recommended me to climb this route next time. Suan repeated a few movements in John Bee and was relaxed about everything.
We ended our day with a dinner at the Chamonix restaurant. I enjoyed my time outdoors today, had a nice climb and perhaps I’ll visit Freyr again very soon.
Last 3 days I spent my time in Freyr. It was time to climb some rocks to get back in shape. The first day I climbed with Paul Lahaye. To warm up he showed me some real nice routes. I have also been climbing in John Bee to repeat the movements and I was working in this combination route which ends in the same line. It went quite well.
The second and third day I climbed together with Jacco Schutte, Sarah Adeney and Paul van Rensch. I didn’t sleep that well in my summer sleeping bag and my skin on my finger tops was quite sensitive. So I decided to take it easy on the second day. I was working out John Bee again and paid attention on the feet holds.
The final day went better. I slept well and had a delicious breakfast. Back in the rocks, Jacco was working out God Save The Queen. I went for another try in John Bee and this time I only needed one block. Too bad but on the other hand it is nice to experience such a progression within 3 days. After all, it is just training. I can almost send John Bee, hopefully I can add this route soon in my list!