Posts Tagged ‘France’
This morning I set my alarm at 6 o’clock but I couldn’t get up on time. I suppose to leave at 6.30h, so I would’ve some spare time for my trip to Schiphol airport, but unfortunately I slept late. I left at 7 o’clock and arrived one hour later at Schiphol.
Fortunately I didn’t have any delay. At the airport I ran into team member Nikki, she was there on time. Team member Elko arrived soon and we’re complete. Checking in went well. This dude at the metal detector checked up on me. I had to open up my bags, but there was nothing dangerous inside my bag. He was just checking out my gadgets, I think he’s jealous at my camera!
The flight to Zurich was nice. I received swiss chocolate during the flight.
It was so delicious, I craved for more. I managed to score some more chocolates with my pure awesomeness at the end of the flight.
We could spend 1 hour at the airport. While Nikki and Elko were busy with their notebooks, I explored the airport. It was quite fun because I could try some fine chocolate sweets. I enjoyed it a lot.
So if you ever have time left at Zurich airport, I suggest you to walk around and you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.
At Zurich, Mathilde and her mom from Sweden joined us. They booked the same flight to Lyon.
When we arrived at Lyon, it was up to fix a rental car.
I booked a small car before, however it was meant for 3 persons. We were with the 5 of us and luckily they had a bigger car available on their parking lot.
We fit well in the car, including our luggage. It took us 2 hours to get to Valence. We managed to get on time at the climbing gym for the registration without navigation.
First we parked our car in the same street of the hotel and checked in. It’s a ** hotel and it’s about 15 minutes by foot to the climbing gym.
To be honest, I’ve seen better hotels in my life. Anyway, I’ll just stay here for a few days!
Next we went downtown to grab a bite. It was already 6.30 P.M. Most of the restaurants open from 7 P.M. We had to hurry because we wanted to be on time for the technical meeting from 7.30 P.M. We ended up in an average restaurant where we got served pretty fast. I ordered entrecote nature avec pomme et salad. Too bad I didn’t have ketchup with my fries. The meat was nice though.
I was too hungry so it was okay I suppose. Nikki picked lasagna and Elko had pizza.
We were on time at the technical meeting. There’s nothing special according the officials.
Nikki will start 7th in her first route and 23rd in her second route. Elko will start 6th in his first route and 28th in his second route. I’ll start 38th in my first route and 16th in my second route.
The programme remains the same. After this meeting we had some desserts to end our long journey. We visited this restaurant near our hotel.
It was super delicious. We’ll definitely return to his restaurant for a meal. After our dessert we went back to our hotel.
That’s it for now. I’m tired and I’m going to sleep because I have to wake up early. Goodnight to everyone and greetings from Valence, France!
Only 3 days to go, yeah! While time is ticking away, I promised to post more information about the Worldcup in Valence.
I haven’t been here before though, but I looked into this competition on the web. It’s always nice to know what you’re up against when you’re in another country.
Firstly, as we speak there are 75 77 competitors who signed up for this competition, among them are Nikki van Bergen, Elko Schellingerhout and me. We’ll leave Thursday morning by airplane from Amsterdam towards Lyon, France. Hopefully we won’t be delayed, or even worse, miss our flight.
Secondly, this is the fifth time the rock climbing Worldcup will be held in Valence. The competition will be organised by climbing club Mineral Spirit and the lead part will take place indoors. The wall is 14 meter high, has a width of 21 meters with more than 10 meter overhang! Here are some photos of the wall. In my previous post I inserted a map but below you’ll see a map with the exact location of the climbing venue.
As you can see on the map, our hotel Inter-Hotel De Paris Et Des Voyageurs is just around the corner. Thanks for booking Vera!
Thirdly, I found more information about the provisional programme. Overview:
Friday October 28th, men and women lead qualification will take place between 09.00h and 15.30h.
Saturday October 29th, semis will start at 12.30h and in the evening you can check the finals starting at 20.00h live on webcam!
Follow the Dutch climbing lead Team live or on Facebook.
To cut my post short, here is a teaser I spotted on the web. Have fun!
I have returned from a short holiday!
After 1100 kilometers, I’m more tanned than before and have some mosquito bites and enjoyed lots of delicious chocolate pancakes and croissants.
My journey began last week Wednesday evening. After I got home from work, I quickly packed my bags and left with Jérôme by car to France. 5,5 hours later we arrived at Fontaine Bleau, the boulder paradise where every climber in the world should once visit in a lifetime.
It was about 5 years ago that I have visited Fontaine Bleau! Below you’ll see my journey planned in Google maps.
View larger map
We visited the following boulder areas:
- Roche aux sabots
- Cul de chien
- Isatis
- Bas cuvier
- Gorges du houx
In 4 days I’ve seen quite some boulders. Fortunately I took my compact camera with me. I just edited a short movie so have a look.
I only recorded a few problems. I managed to climb some more problems though:
- Gargantoit 7a 2nd go
- Gargantoit (assis) 7b+ 2nd go
- La Jocker 7a flash (first 7a problem of Cuvier – 1953 – back then it was sent on mountaineering shoes…)
- Arabesque 7b+
- Jeux de toit 7a
Besides this short list I sent some other unknown 7a’s. I don’t know the names because it wasn’t defined in my 7 + 8 topo guide. It’s a nice topo though however I couldn’t find each area that fast. I think it’s just me, because I’m not often in FB. I enjoyed climbing outdoors, without focussing on hard boulder problems.
Besides the mosquitos and the heat, I find it very motivating to boulder outdoor. However lots of problems can be send so much easier in the winter because of the friction. I shouldn’t complain though, 4 days in a row with a lot of sun and great ambience in this lovely forest made me very happy.
I might return during winter times to work on some projects. I like it!
Now it’s time to climb routes again. Au revoir!
My post about Chamonix is a tad late, but I promised to publish qualification footages from Elko Q2, Nikki Q1, Q2 and from Adam Ondra Q1. There you go.
After the qualifications I went to explore Chamonix by myself. I had enough of this competition so I needed some distraction and sightseeing.
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In the evening we had dinner in our apartment. Sous-chef Wally was in the kitchen, wrapped himself with a huge towel. I don’t know what he was up to but eventually the result has been captured on photo.
I was starving. All I ate for today was an apple and drank lots of water in the afternoon. It was a good meal, thanks Wally.
After dinner we didn’t do anything out the ordinary. It was raining outdoors. From within our hotel room we could hear the competition speaker. Meanwhile everyone was busy catching up on the internet.
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I guess I digested my food well and slept good that night.
The next morning we slept late. Today it was the day of the semis and the finals. I was taking it easy until the semis because I didn’t fully recover yet. On the other hand, Wally is showing that he can do some pull ups on anything in the apartment. The view of the hotel is great. Nearly every 15 minutes you can see a paraglider landing on the grass.
After some news reading on our computers, Wally decided to leave us. He is going to the isolation area to check up on Jorg. Jorg is the only dutch guy who made it to the semis by climbing both qualification routes.
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In the afternoon we went to see the semis. It was kinda hot, about 32 degrees with some cool wind.
During the semis Jorg managed to advance to the finals. He made it to the top 8, super! We got so bored between the semis and the finals. I enjoyed my time on a slackline. That didn’t went well because I didn’t feel good just yet.
Right after that we went out for dinner downtown in Chamonix and returned back at our hotel to freshen up. The finals is about to start! Just 15 minutes to go and we are on our way to the venue. At 20.30h we were sitting in front of the competition wall. It was major crowded.
The coaches have their own VIP area and Nikki and I were sitting close to it. So close that a fence got in my way for my camera and I had to climb over the fence to support Jorg even more. Luckily I manage to record his actions and also from Jakob, Adam and Patxi but their footages will follow later. First they introduced the female finalists followed by the male finalists.
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8pt; “>Jorg on podium
The men’s finals was great to witness whereas the women’s finals was less interesting because the route was too easy. Jorg manage to end up third! That’s really awesome.
The Worldcup ended with a nice show.
Jorg treated me a coke and coach Wally bought us a delicious crêpe, thanks for that.
I’d like to be here again next year, because Chamonix has a really nice environment. Hopefully I’ll feel well and climb in healthy conditions! For now I’ll recover from my stomache…Chamonix a bientôt.
I heard Wally’s alarm going off at 6.30 AM in the morning. I tried to sleep some more.
After 20 minutes, I felt better. Today I have to climb at my best. Considering my situation I don’t know if I’m able to pull this off. My breakfast for today is muesli with yogurt and I drank lots of water from the tap.
Wally mentions that Elko’s bag has arrived. It is already at the hotel, just in time! Wally and Elko are leaving to the venue because Elko has to climb early. I’m leaving with Nikki half an hour later.
The isolation area is huge. Again I see lots of familiar international climbers, but I try to focus on myself. Wouter and Elko are present as well and somewhat later Jorg is in the isolation area too. Furthermore there is a television with all demonstrations of the qualification routes. This time I don’t have any pictures of the isolation, because I gave up my camera to coach Wally. I’m trying to eat another banana and a muesli bar. Then it’s time for me to warm up on the wall.
When I sit down, I feel my food getting up to my throat. This is a bad sign! A few minutes later I threw up, what a bad feeling. Oh well, I hope this was the worst part.
At 9.30h I’m walking towards the competition wall to support Elko. Wally is ready to record his attempt. It feels very hot so I’m trying to stay out of the sun.
After Elko’s attempt, I’m returning to the isolation area. I just try to stay calm to save up my energy. Nikki is also climbing her first qualification route, which is inside the isolation area.
I’m heading to the competition wall to look into the route and holds. At the same moment I see other climbers doing the movements, which is nice to remember. I still have half an hour and return back to the isolation. In the isolation I’m trying to stretch my muscles. I take another asperine for my headache. I’m not feeling well at all. I trained half a year towards this competition and now I’m sick. I try not to think of it.
It is my turn to climb my first route. Behind the wall, I receive a backnumber. I put my harness and my climbing shoes on. It’s nearly my moment, I shut my eyes and think back to all the training moments I’ve had this year. Then I climb the route once again in my head.
Okay, I can go on stage and look carefully at each hold. I focus purely on the holds once I place my foot. I want to climb fast however at the same time I want to control every single movement. It is going well, until I go to this strange hold. My position is bad and I lose my balance, no way this is going to happen to me right now! I should’ve put my right foot against the wall, I should’ve known this. I’m out, that’s a fact. When I’m on the ground, I’m not even pumped in my arms. I hate this moment.
Between my first and second qualification route, I try to remain calm. Yet I need to eat something and force myself to eat a cookie and drink lots of water. I need to eat, because I feel so empty. My headache is nearly gone. I’m sitting on a mat among other competitors. I’m staring in front of me and think of the route and try to make all the movements in my head. I spot Wally in the crowd, he was there to pick me up. Soon it is my turn for my second qualification. I totally forgot about the time. Wally is asking me if I’m alright but when I walk to the competition wall, I feel like throwing up again. I feel okay again after another session in the restroom. What a bad feeling, everything I try to eat simply comes back out of my mouth.
I’m walking to the competition wall with Wally and feel a bit better. Just before I’m about to start, Wally asks me if I feel tense. I don’t feel anything. Actually just little tense, my emotions is totally controlled by my organs. Just a few more minutes and I have to start. I’m sitting behind the wall and feel the heat rising to my head. I feel so empty, not strange though cause I just threw up. I’m trying to prepare myself mentally. Then it is my turn.
I walk on stage and look at the holds again. It is my moment, I have to go for it. Now or never. I’m trying to clip multiple quickdraws at the same position. I need to climb most efficient, because I can’t request more from my body. Just 5 meters above the ground, my body feels to give up on me yet I try to fight. I have to conduct all the movements just once. I need to place my feet well and crimp on to the holds and everything will be fine. I just have to hang on for a few minutes. In the background I hear the speaker calling my name and making jokes about it. I notice it very well but I’m putting all my energy in this route. It is just too much for my body. I’m empty. I fall out of the route and I’m back on the floor again. My legs feel weak, everything in my body feels weak and I walk away to drop my harness.
My first Worldcup went too fast. I haven’t been so sick in years. What did I do wrong? Why me? I just accept it, I can’t help it anymore. I know I can get more out of myself! Bummer, next time better.
Unfortunately I can’t upload more videos because I’ve reached my limit for today. The rest of the movies will follow soon (Nikki, Elko and 1 from Adam Ondra).
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