Posts Tagged ‘Eindhoven’

Reset-06Yesterday was my first competition of the year. It was RE-SET round number 6 held at Monk Bouldergym.

This local competition was new to me. The rules are simple. There were 12 problems between 4 and 8a and a time limit between 8 and 11 PM. Try to climb all of them and you were the winner of the day.

I knew about this serie before but I never bothered to join before. My goal was to see if I was fit enough.

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Routesetters Bruno & Michiel

Anyway I was among training buddies and friends. I climbed with Vera who managed to flash the same set of boulders.

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After an hour I had finished them all. There was one nice blue problem on wall number 4 which took me a few attempts and it wasn’t even the hardest problem.

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I think I like such subtle boulders in particular. Overall I find the boulders were quite friendly.

Photo by Bram Berkien

Photo by Bram Berkien

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In the end I wasn’t the only one who sent all the problems. Tim Reuser, Timo Tak and Ties Linders (coincidentally all names starting with a T) managed to send them too. Female winner was Vera Zijlstra. We received a Lapis brush for our effort. Awesome right?

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More or less I think I’m getting fit again. Thank you Monk and training buddies. See you around soon again!

This week I was really looking forward to the annual Dust 2012 event!

I recovered quite well from the 100% boulders event from last week. It was a good training session. This week I didn’t climb 5 times a week but just two times. This morning I woke up and ate some grapes and a sandwich before it was time to peddle my way to Monk Bouldergym.

I arrived just on time and said hello to Teun Keusters, Ulf Lennertz, Daan Groskamp and Vera Zijlstra. It was fun to hang around. Not much later Vera unlocked the CTO area where I changed my clothes and got ready to rumble.

Today I figured it was fun to solve boulder problems with Vera. Most of the time she could catch up with me pretty well. We used my topo guide and climbed like maniacs.

Luckily I managed to flash some hard problems, saving me some skin for the rest of the boulders. Actually I was quite proud of myself whenever that happened haha. Every small success should be celebrated.

I didn’t have any tactics today. I knew it was quite hard to go for the best 8 problems so I set my mind to climb as much as possible. It was my only goal for today. Climb until I’m out of time!

Vera quit a bit earlier but I kept going on. I didn’t have much skin problems. More or less my feet started to hurt from wearing the awesome Boreal Kintaro so long.

Anyway, later I ran into photographer Tom Doms. He wanted to take a few shots and you’ll see the photos in this story as I’m writing it. I was finishing up the easy set problems in my last hour. Sometimes I was just staring at the wall, because it was so ‘Dusty’.

In my last hour I still had to finish about 31 problems. About 10 problems were easy problems and the rest were 7a or harder. Vera was filling in my problems and supported me, thanks for that!

In my last problem I felt a bit tired. It was a black problem on the competition wall. I had to put a lot of effort in this one. I almost fell out of the problem however I didn’t want to give up and try it again. I just needed to put my left foot next to my left hand and stand up. Yeah I managed to do it and sent it! Awesome!

According to my topo guide, I climbed 76 problems out of 90. Tired but satisfied about my performance!

I remember I climbed 80 problems last year, so I was hoping it was enough in my category. I handed in my score form and went to do some groceries. 30 minutes later I received a text message from Vera that the price ceremony had already began! I was warming up some soup and haven’t started yet. Oh well, I got to hurry and peddled back to Monk Bouldergym.

Pheeew, I was just in time for the price ceremony. They started to hand out prizes for several categories. I was waiting for the category: Male most climbed boulders. And finally Joris Klinkenbijl started with number 3: Tim Reuser. I knew he climbed 74. 2nd was Elko Schellingerhout, he climbed 75 problems. Nr 1: Truong Ngo. Hey that’s me! Yeah! I climbed 76 problems, woooow that was a close call. I received 7 bags of Moon chalk. Thank you Dust 2012. You can find the rest of the results here.

More photos of Tom will be soon available on his Facebookpage.

It’s time to get some rest. I had oodles of fun climbing the problems. I’ll climb the rest in my spare time. So see you around at Monk!

As I have mentioned earlier, I was testing routes for the youth lead 4 competition.

This was the last qualification for the youth to qualify for the national youth championship though.

Today I decided to visit Neoliet Eindhoven to witness the competition.

I arrived just in time to see the finals. I observed the routes well and it was good to know that the routes were all tweaked last minute! I was curious about the qualifiers and who advanced to the finals.

15 Minutes later I got myself a microphone and I was lucky enough to be a speaker during the finals. Below you’ll see my note as promised (notes are in Dutch only)!

I was standing above the stairs with a few notes and a mic in my hands. After some prep time, it was time to see the kids climbing hard.

Left there was a blue route for the girls and right there was a yellow route for the boys.

Sometimes I was so enthusiastic, that I mentioned a bit too much about the route. “Clip your quickdraw!”, I shouted. That was forbidden, however due to safety reasons it was allowed though. Everyone took advantage of my information and I saved some kids lifes yeah!

I think the kids climbed well. Easy said as a speaker though, but I think it’s important that youth climbers get nice competitions. They are the future of sports climbing.

The girls B+C category was quite intense, because two girls managed to send the route. They were advanced to a super finals. The battle was between Enya Groenland and Celine Cuypers (BEL). With a few tweaks from chiefsetter Ulf, Celine managed to win by a few more holds! Awesome!

The winners: Emma Passchier, Tabitha Buma, Wouter van Roessel, Bob Schubert and Celine Cuypers, all of you well done and congratulations with your win! The rest of the results are here.

I’m glad I was part of this competition. It was a pleasure to be here. See you next time again!

Sunday I was in a climbing gym again. This time I wasn’t at Monk Bouldergym but at Neoliet Eindhoven!

I was asked to set a route for a youth competition which will take place next week. I was pretty tired from the Boulder 3 event nonetheless I promised to set a route in this gym.

When I entered the gym, Rachèl Nilwik and Martijn Dijkhuizen were already busy setting routes on the main wall. How cool is that?

I was send to the right part of the gym. Red holds were every where on the floor.

Ready to be set in the wall yeah!

A few hours later, the climbing gym was about to close their doors. I managed to finish my route, however I didn’t have time to test it yet. I hope it will be a beauty route.

Good luck next week kids!

Yesterday was the final boulder qualification at Monk Bouldergym! I started climbing at 12.30, right after I signed up at Dirk and Remco.

I spotted coach Wally at the bar, standing with a topo guide. He was checking the problems and the points. It was time to climb with tactics, I like that! Don’t just climb random problems, but just focus on the 6 most difficult problems.

After I changed my clothes, I warmed up properly. The gym was getting crowded and yet warmer. A nice temperature to train though. I was a bit slow with my warm up, it took me at least half an hour before I could check my first hard problem. A pink problem in a roof was quite hard for my right biceps. Therefore I tried a black problem, which was on the right of the wall.

Vera gave me some advise about this problem. I succeeded yeah! Alright, I feel somewhat warmer. The pink problem in the roof went well too. It was a matter of being accurate and slap your hands on the right place of the holds. Yeah, I managed to send boulder problem number 2. Off to the next wall, where I could send another 2 problems. It was in front of the campus board. A pink problem going left was okay. I flashed that one. And a black problem took me a few attempts, which by the way was really awesome!

I had done 4 problems so far. I nearly caught up with Vera and Teun.

They already sent 5 problems. Vera showed me another black problem, which was on a pretty vertical wall. Yeah, I could flash this one too. It went super, just 1 more problem to go.

I wanted to climb this white problem, which had a standing start in a roof. There weren’t many tops in this problem so far.

This problem delivers me quite some points if I will climb it! I’m going to focus on this problem and after a short break of 10 minutes I was hanging on the final hold of the white problem. Yeeehaa, finally I can take a long break.

It was only 3 P.M. when I changed my clothes and handed in my score form.

Well, now I could do some groceries and start with my dinner. At home I could run some other errands and rest a bit. Meanwhile the scores were available online, on the NKBV webpage. I like that, I could check the score while being at home. Awesome! I’m placed 4th to the finals.

I was on my way to Monk to witness the ladies’ finals.

Then all the finalists had to enter the isolation area. The men’s finalists were: Wouter, Tim, Bruno, Hans, Rens, Teun, Elko and me. Dirk was standing in front of the isolation area, checking if everyone is present. Check!

I had about 20 minutes to warm up again. I didn’t feel like warming up though, because it was pretty hot. We got a briefing, but there was no interesting facts about the problems. Same story as always! 4 Minutes per problem and that’s it. After 8 minutes of prep time, it was time to show some boulder skills.

The first problem was set on a vertical wall, on the right. It was pretty obvious what to do.

There was no final hold, but a square made of tape. It was allowed to use the top of the wall though. I couldn’t reach the square, therefore I had to jump. Putting my left foot high and go!

Unfortunately I couldn’t keep my body close to the wall while jumping. Jumping with 2 feet didn’t work as well. I had a lame bonus hold for a start of the finals while most of the competitors managed to reach the final square without jumping. Oh well, next problem!

In my second problem I couldn’t reach on top of a big volume.

Well, it looks like a dyno, but somehow I didn’t feel this one. Climbing on the side was a bit tricky, but I could touch the volume.

No top nor bonus hold for me. I feel pretty stupid. In the isolation area I heard lots of cheering from the audience. The idea was to jump to the big volume and the side at the same time. That means you should have quite a big reach! I don’t know if I would have succeeded, but I didn’t try this in my attempt.

In my third boulder problem it was a matter of crimping and pinching white holds.

I placed a heelhook with my left foot on the starthold to match my left hand on the next module. That went okay, however my heel hurted so bad after doing that.

In my 4th attempt I finally managed to grab the bonus hold!

In my final attempt, my foot zipped away from the module, right before I wanted to jump to the next hold. Such a pity. I know I can climb this boulder, but not right now I suppose. I couldn’t motivate myself enough to climb hard, I could only smile about the problems.

On to the final problem!

The final problem contained a lot of volumes. It was a nice problem but I was too tired to conduct the proper sequence. I tried to put my right heel on the right module but I was too weak. I couldn’t lock off my left arm in order to continue to the next volume with my right hand. The spotlights aiming on the wall didn’t help me either. It was so hot standing there. I just don’t want to give up. In my final attempt I failed again. I have a bonus hold on this one, and that’s it.

Well it’s the end of the evening for me. No tops in the finals. I ended up last in the finals, 8th place. Lame score, however it doesn’t matter if I’d end up 3rd or last in the finals, because in the overall score I’m keeping my 5th spot. Yeah! You can check the final scores here. I’d like to thank photographer Tom Doms for the men’s finals photos. They’re awesome! I’ll upload some more random photos on my Facebook page.

This means that I’m place for the National Championship Bouldering, but I don’t know if I will compete. Boulder competitions just doesn’t satisfy me at this very moment. I want to climb routes! I want to compete at Puurs during the Worldcup. It will take place at the end of September. I can train a lot, climb lots of routes in different climbing gyms and of course climb a few more times at Puurs. Bring it on!

Just like previous year Nicky de Leeuw crashed at my place. It was midnight really fast after a nice game of ping pong and some stressful punching on gamecontrollers. Nicky could manage his loss very well. However my night was awesome and we decided to get some sleep.

We’d set our alarm at half past 7, so we would be on time to support the ladies in the qualifications. In the morning we visited a local supermarket to get ourselves a nice breakfast. A few buns of bread should be nice. Nicky picked some peanutbutter and I felt like Nutella chocolate spread.

After our breakfast we went downtown by foot. Then I realised that I had forgotten my chalkbag. I left it behind in Monk! Oh well, I’ll pick that up later. We’re happy it was such a nice weather with sunshine.

The worldcup venue was downtown. It was nice to see how everyone still got involved by the music and the whole setup to see what’s going on. The worldcup boulder of course!

The ladies started climbing, the best were climbing first. The problems were funny and creative. For instance, modules were placed upon other modules. It looked so easy to climb.

Meanwhile the square was getting pretty crowded. David Sluijs sat next to me, he’s our federation doctor. He advised me about food. What is good food to eat before you start a competition? What kind of food is easy to digest en gives me the energy I need? His response was pasta. It’s good to eat pasta 3 hours before a competition and not to forget some sugar. That was a good suggestion, I was getting hungry anyway!

After the ladies qualifications, it was time for us to go to the isolation. I wanted to arrive there as late as possible, due to my start number. I’m one of the last climbers anyway. The isolation was at the Beursgebouw building. I received my start number sticker and had to hand in my cellphone. I wasn’t allowed to have contact with anyone outside this building.

In the isolation area, you could see teams sticking together. Each country was relaxing for themselves and everyone was reuniting on the warm up wall. I felt good and didn’t have any injuries. After one hour our fysio Tessa van Roy gave me a nice massage to loosen up my back. I got treated on her massage table and it felt so good.

In the background I noticed isolation people were working hard. They managed this area pretty well. It contained lots of food, drinks, magazines, mats, chairs and a warm up wall.

I wanted to warm up proper but I couldn’t. It was just too crowded on the wall. I wanted to get pumpy but it just seemed impossible on such a small wall. I changed my tactics and divided my warm up session in multiple climbing series. It went well but unfortunately no pumpy arms.

After 5 hours of isolation, it was finally my turn! We got escorted with an umbrella to the competition wall. Near the competition wall was another isolation area. It contained fridges with cans of Redbull and lots of water. I prepared myself and put on my Boreal competition shoes and received a score form. I could feel other people getting nervous. I just had to manage myself in 5 minutes.

I saw the last few seconds ticking away on the digital clock. Yes here we go! I’m entering the mats and walk towards the first wall. Every boulder was explained in English. It was obvious how to get started. The first move was tricky, there were no footholds and you don’t want to zip away.

To reach the bonus, you had to place your left foot on this black sloper hold. I wasn’t strong enough to compress these holds together. I understood the problem very well but I wasn’t able to conduct these movements. I needed more time for this. The game has just started and all I had was just 5 poor minutes to send this problem.

I didn’t manage to reach the bonus. I figured I was well rested from my holiday. I only got frustrated and wanted to shake my hands alive.

It didn’t work. I got punished in the very first problem. My time was up and I got back in the isolation. We weren’t allowed to talk about boulder problems. It was a pretty serious observation in there. I tried to reset myself for my second boulder. After 5 minutes of rest I could start all over again.

In the second boulder I took my time to figure out the proper sequence. The beginning wasn’t so difficult. However the crux was at the end of the problem.

With my left hand I was trying to pinch this big fat slopy module while I was holding an undercling with my right hand. Next was a mean pinch and that felt like the crux of this problem. I wanted to place a heelhook with my right foot but in that point of view that hold was like gone. Oh well, I performed a knee drop and went to the pinch!

I succeeded only once to get the pinch. I just didn’t want to let go but matching it was too difficult. I fell out of the problem and got disappointed. Back in the isolation I was thinking about the problems. They seem possible though, but with my current condition it was impossible. Lets see what problem 3 is about!

When I arrived at my third boulder, I faced the wall and all I saw were big purple holds. A monster! I could barely pinch it. I was just pinching it while standing on the mat. This is it.

When I went for the second hold, I felt like I was dying. I could hardly pinch the second hold, it was so big. Continuing with my left hand seemed just impossible.

I tried to put my foot on my right hand hold but nothing seemed to work. There was simply no space for my heel! Well, this is the truth. I was confronted by these purple holds. I didn’t know what to do with it!

I tried a few more times, but I only got tired of trying. I couldn’t find the right tension to climb this horrible monster. I felt weak.

Back in the isolation I checked my score form. I see dashes, no scores, nothing. Just a few bonuses. Sad, real sad score. Then I figured, what the hell am I doing? I wasn’t enjoying this competition at all. I was only getting frustrated. I wasn’t climbing, I didn’t like my situation!

Within 5 minutes I tried something new. I wanted to enjoy climbing, that’s what this is all about. It was a mental game. I know I’m not in shape but here I am. It was an honour to be here. I had just set a new goal. It was time for my 4th boulder problem.

A buzz went off and I ran towards my 4th problem. This wall was set with modules. I figured out what to do.

The first few attempts failed. I had to try something else. What would Kilian do in this situation? But of course, using the corners! I wanted to climb like that and I did. I felt pretty warmed up and nearly managed to send the boulder. Unfortunately I fell before the final hold!

I had 2 minutes left. I knew I could do this! All I had to do is get a proper rest. Just one more try. I could feel the adrenaline in my body. I chalked my hands before I started this problem. I placed my hands on the volume and checked out the timer and knew this was my moment!

The movements went okay. I placed a knee bar between the volumes and managed to grab the next hold. I was so close to the final hold. I couldn’t reach it though! I can’t give up, I won’t let go. I replaced my left heel and compressed my legs. I could reach the final hold static and I heard the crowd was cheering for me! It gave me more energy to match the final hold. Yeaah! I was so relieved and at the same time I felt so strong.

Back in the isolation I was trying to recharge myself one more time. I was sweating and my body felt like superman. I wanted to climb more! I was enjoying my rest time and soon I had to perform one more time.

Boulder number 5 was really nice but also very difficult. Just like the second boulder problem, the crux was at the end. The begin was okay. I liked this move, crossover to an undercling and then stand up on a volume.

Then it was time to stand up and go for a small slopy hold on a module. From this undercling and the pinch on the volume, it was a matter of deadpoint to a slopy hold. It felt hard to jump without any footholds. For a second I thought I should match this pinch, but it was impossible. I can’t pinch anymore, I’m too weak. I was jumping but I couldn’t get my hands on the slopy hold. There were no footholds! Well I think it was just some crazy semi one arm pull up and if you’re not strong enough, you won’t make it to the slopy hold. Even if you hang on the slopy hold, you would still have to make another move to send the problem!

My final attempt was poor. It was time for me to leave the stage.

I felt a lot of emotions. I don’t know what to do with it. Should I be content with my result? I had 1t4 3b4. A lame score, 59th place. Of course I did my very best however I just had 2 weeks of rest. My body is still in rest mode. I simply need more time to get back in shape.

Most important is the experience. I enjoyed my time. It was fun, exciting, challenging and I can go on for hours. No semi finals for me. It’s impossible with such a result. To advance to the semis you should send each problem. Only the best boulderers deserve a spot in the semis.

It was really nice to compete in this competition. I’d like to thank Jorg Kemner for his great and colourful photos! You can check out more photos related to the worldcup here, here and here.

Next I’d like to thank everyone who supported me during the Worldcup boulder at Eindhoven. Despite the rain, I’ve had an unforgettable weekend. Last but not least the after party Samedi Soir at Monk! 1 word: incroyable!

I’m well motivated for my next competition at Chamonix in France. Lets train some routes!

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