Posts Tagged ‘Eindhoven’

Good afternoon you all!

Dust 2015 was a great event yesterday! I was waiting in front of the gym at 9.45 AM, so psyched to climb!

Waiting

Photo credits: Chris Waitzman

I wasn’t the only one waiting at the door though. Among a crowd of psyched climbers we were all waiting for the gym to open.

psyched

I felt quite excited when I peeked through the windows and saw Monk was ready to receive 250 (!) climbers.

Prep

And at 10.01 AM the gym doors were open and I was the first climber who received a scoreform!

register

Yeah I was ready to climb. Once again my mind was set to climb the most boulders of the day. I didn’t want to spend many attempts on each boulder, simply because there was no time for that. I was aiming to climb boulders which could lose lots of texture after many climbs. After that I spent time on some hard boulder problems. It took me quite some time to finish 8 hard problems. I decided not to spend more than 5 attempts for each hard problem. I think that worked out well.

enter first

After that I spent time on queuing and climbing many problems. I liked many problems, different styles and different kind of holds. Some of the holds were really sharp! Some of the boulder problems I didn’t even try, it would take too much time waiting. The new walls are definitely a nice add on to the gym!

At the end of the day I was quite surprised my skin was still okay. I expected to have bleeding fingers but that didn’t happen. I climbed 78 problems out of 94 total problems. Even though my top 8 wasn’t really high, I was proud at myself of achieving such a list.

scoreform

afterevent

This year Dust felt dustier than ever. In the ranking game I ended up 9th with my top 8 hardest problem. In the All You Can Boulder category I ended up 2nd with 78 problems.

scoreform2

Tim sent 92, quite impressive! I guess I could call my day a success 😀

price

1daypostclimbing

With 4 bags of chalk, I’m good to go for another few weeks 😉 Thank you for the great boulders Monk and thank you Black Diamond for supplying me with chalk 😀

Today I will show you to another training video with Vera!

I was wondering if I should go to a sportsgym to climb routes or go to a bouldergym. I ended up in the bouldergym once again. Instead of just climbing on holds I wanted to make my training a bit more interesting and challenging. Let’s think outside the box! I introduce you these fun soft addons specially made for climbing.

DSC04873

What to do with it? Well, add it on a training wall and I challenge you to avoid it or to climb through the loops! I added another challenge, which are some extra draws to make myself more tired while avoiding the addons.

DSC04867

And my rest in between the series was decided by a dice. I ended up with 2 minutes rest in between.

DSC04869

DSC04870

DSC04871

DSC04872

Anyway, I recorded a little bit of my fun training. I ran out of memory when I wanted to climb a 32 moves boulder on the 40 degree training wall, estimated 8b route….better luck next time. Check it out!

Video: Fun training

I am just done with editing a training video. I need to say that I was rusty in editing earlier this week. I spent more time on editing than filming the action!

Some background information, this was my 6th climbing session in 4 days(!) This time I looked into a campus board training. After the training I still feel energized, however my skin feels quite sensitive.

This video is based on Sean McColl’s campus board training. I followed his workout on the rungs, skipped some extra rests and it feels good. Vera joined me on this training. To be honest, it is much more fun to train together!

rest = 90 seconds

Up by 1’s – skipped rest
Up by 1’s – rest
Up by 2’s – skipped rest
Up by 2’s – rest
Big dynamic moves – skipped rest
Big dynamic moves – rest
Bumping left hand – skipped rest
Bumping right hand – rest
Bumping left hand – skipped rest
Bumping right hand – rest
Double up by 1’s – skipped rest
Double up by 2’s – rest
Offset double up by 1’s (left hand high) – skipped rest
Offset double up by 1’s (right hand high) – rest
Offset by 2, alternating hands (last exercise of Sean’s workout)

Over onto the orange holds – 15 pullups – 10 pullups (finished on exercises)

Flapper

Watch the video below.

Video: Campus training

Then Vera and I went bouldering for another 1,5 hours.

done climbing

2,5 hours later our climbing session finished. Efficient and productive, that’s the way I like it 😀

Hey hello climbers 🙂 Let’s go back in time because I have some old news to share!

As you can read from the title, this post is about RE-SET from Friday June 20th. I managed to climb all 12 boulders and earned double points from the final edition. Here are some photos taken by Tanya.

IMG_2113

IMG_2039

IMG_2051

IMG_2071

Number 24, which was a white boulder with sloper holds, had one difficult move. When I went for the sloper hold on the side I injured my left shoulder however I continued and sent the boulder.

IMG_2101

IMG_2103

IMG_2110

I quit climbing immediately and took some rest for the night.

The results can be found here and more photos of the event here.

Monk-DustYesterday the 6th edition of Dust open competition was held at Monk Bouldergym! I was quite excited cause I managed to sign up last minute.

I didn’t climb the last few days to save up some energy and some climbing skin on my fingers. I prepared my lunch at home and arrived at the gym 5 to 10. The doors weren’t open yet, but I was psyched to climb! I knew Monk would use new holds and a bunch of new volumes.

When I entered I was one of the first climbers. I received a T-shirt. There was a box full of pencils and topoguides. Monk was ready to receive a lot of climbers today! There were 90 boulders set in total, all spread over the gym.

DSC04533

DSC04534

I started to warm up on a few easy boulders on the training wall. After that I searched for some vertical wall problems. In my mind I had prepared some strategy to tackle all the problems. My goal for today was to climb as many problems as I could including hard problems.

DSC04535

DSC04537

DSC04538

After 40 boulders I decided to take short lunch break. It was already quite dusty which was no surprise if you have 250 other climbers around you. After my lunch break I changed climbing shoes. I tried some hard problems. Some of the hard problems took longer than expected, other problems I managed to climb in 1 or 2 attempts. This year some of the 7b and most of the 7c problems were set hard. I tried a few attempts in one lime 8a boulder, but it took too much effort and quite some skin. I was decisive and continued to climb less hard problems.

DSC04540

DSC04541

DSC04542

At 3 P.M. I wasn’t tired yet. Status from this point: managed to climb 68 boulders so far!

DSC04545

So I still had 22 boulders to go. Sometimes it takes a while to wait in line because it was too crowded. It was so cool to climb on new holds. I like the new Made by Monk holds in particular the pockets.

Anyway, I was glad I still had skin left on my fingers. The last 2 hours I didn’t climb that many problems. I ended up with 73 boulders out of 90! My best 8 problems had a score of 5800 points. I was wondering if that was good enough to end up in the top 10.

To me it was a daily challenge to climb as many problems as possible. Surprisingly I wasn’t that tired yet. Anyway, I knew there were other climbers trying to climb all the problems as well. Elko was one of them. He managed to climb 1 more boulder, well done!

DSC04544

When it was time for the price ceremony, I was quite surprised. During the competition I saw Rustam Gelmanov cruising through these hard boulders. He seems really fit to me. I knew Rustam was the best climber of the day, however there was another guy from Belgium who claimed to have climbed all the 90 boulders! That means this guy had won the hardest category and also the most boulders of the day. I think this is just a super lame way to win a price. Why did I just say that? Well, I saw a lot of people climb. The hard boulders are quite obvious however I didn’t see him climb any of them. Usually I don’t care about the results, but to be honest I don’t believe you can climb the hardest boulders and all of the boulders in a few hours.

@Belgian guy: If you climb all the boulders, just like you claimed last year, then I will be happy to climb along with you next year. Obviously I lack technique and power, therefore you can show me how you tackle the hardest problems. Please do contact me. If you climb all the hardest boulders, why won’t you join the boulder Worldcups this year? I’m sure you can win easily 😉

Back to results. I ended up 3rd 2nd in All you can climb category and ended up 7th 6th in the overall score ranking. It was an amazing day with fun boulders.

Update February 3rd 5 P.M.: Did you compete too? Check your result here.

DSC04548

I’m glad these boulders will stay for a while so I can finish the rest of the boulders on my list. Thanks for the great time everyone. I enjoyed a day of climbing! See you around in Monk.

I have been competing in local competitions at Monk. This competition is called Re-Set. For me it’s a low profile competition and quite convenient because it’s near my living place 😀

I have some photos to share. The coloured photo is from Re-Set round 1, taken by Dirk Mol which was held on Friday 13th of September. The black and white photos are from Re-Set round 2, taken by Bram Berkien which was held last Friday.

Re-Set round 1

Truong_Ngo_Reset_2_Kintaro

Truong_Ngo_Reset_2.2_Kintaro

The last photo was taken when I was fighting gravity in the hardest boulder from the set and failed when matching my hand on the biggest volume. It reminds me that I’m still not fit enough.

Some update about myself: my goal is to get fit real soon! I think that I’m improving slow but I don’t mind. Currently I’m working on my weaknesses and I like to make up boulders for myself. Not only am I focussed on bouldering, however I try to keep up with some endurance. I’m really motivated to train hard and push my limits.

These competitions are a gift, where I can test myself. So keep up the good work Monk, because I enjoy the competition boulders!

Language
Sponsors
Tags
Socials
Archive
Search
Contact
For any inquiries, click here to send me an e-mail.