Posts Tagged ‘competition’

It has been 5 years since I competed in all the national boulder comps and fought for the title in the nationals. Since then I participated in just 1 or 2 national boulder qualifications each year. However, this year I wanted to take part in all the comps in order to qualify once again for the nationals.

JK20803s

The line up of the competitions:
Boulder 1: Cube – 10th
Boulder 2: Sterk – 9th
Boulder 3: Bolder – 8th
Boulder 4: Monk – 7th

In general the boulder problems were creative, fun and sometimes more challenging than I thought. Unfortunately there were also some boulders with reachy moves, which did not suit me.

Every time I could have been in the finals, but I made too many mistakes. I’m glad I improved gradually and collected enough points to join the biggest competition of the year: the national championship boulder 2016!
I have been counting down the days and today will be the big day to perform.

The program for the event in Amsterdam:
10.30h Venue open for climbers and audience (free entrance)
11.00-11.30h Isolation females open
12.15h Start semi finals females
13.20-13.50h Isolation males open
13.50h End semi finals females
15.00h Start semi finals males
16.40h End semi finals males
16.55h Results semi finals
17.00h Venue closed for audience
19.00h Venue open for audience (entrance € 15,-)
19.30-19.45h Isolation finalists open
20.30h Presentation finalists and prep time
20.45h Start Finals NC Boulder 2016
23.15h Price ceremony

Unfortunately there is no live stream for the semi finals, but at 20.30h you can tune in for the live stream of the finals!

I’m one of the 12 participants and will start climbing the semi finals at 15.00h. Hopefully the boulders will be fun for me. I’ll keep my fingers crossed. Let’s see if I can make it to the finals this time 😉

Anyway, I will enjoy my day and hope to see you in Amsterdam!!

Hey everyone!

Yesterday was the big show in Amsterdam. I hope all of you had fun to see the best competition climbers at work! If not, watch it here again.

Livestream lead nationals 2015

This championship was an important day on my calendar. Since I entered the lead competition, I was serious about competing, wanting to fight and win. I marked this day as a highpoint to see how fit I am at the moment.

Warming up in the iso for 2 hours seemed no problem. Despite my fever, cold and cough last week, I could set my mind to relax and focus on this one route.

Presentation

When I arrived at the gym, I was really curious what kind of route Tonde had set for us. My first impression of the route was: this route is set for me, this is all about compression, a lot of volumes, awesome!! The holds looked big, maybe one crux near the long snake hold into an undercling, but with good feet work I should be able to manage that. I used my monocular to check out the holds on top.

silhouette

The beginning was hard to see, because I was standing just below the route, moving to left or right didn’t really improve the view.
In short, the route looked really cool. I couldn’t wait to climb in this ambiance, with so many people cheering, among supporters and friends!

Walking back to isolation, my head was set to competition mode. It was time to wear my harness, pick the right shoes and wait for my turn.

Once I entered the gym, I was really looking forward to climb! I didn’t want to climb too fast or too slow. The first 3 draws were no problem at all. I was even able to find a good rest position in the beginning by sitting on this huge volume with my foot. From here I moved onwards to the next volume. The next step was a big move, where I moved my right hand first and went for a jump.

NKLead

Photocredits: Sytse van Slooten

Once my feet didn’t get any pressure anymore it felt like I was pulled away from the wall. I didn’t see the hold on top of the volume, just a vague tickmark. It happened all too fast before I realized what had happened. I was back on the floor.

My thoughts right after the climb: What the F@##!%$#@%!$#!!??@

I wanted to express my feeling by screaming out loud, throwing my shoes against the wall or throw away my chalkbag, but no I’m not like that and so I remained calm 🙁 I was really disappointed in myself. I should’ve jumped with 2 hands, one aiming for the tickmark, the other aiming for the corner of the volume.

When I untied the rope, Ulf told me the same had happened to him. I was hoping no one else would struggle so early in the route. There are risks taken if a route is set like this. A risky show element is fun for everyone, however in my opinion not so early in the route. I think the crowd would have been more entertained if they could have seen the climbers fight all the way in the route!

After my performance it was Gerke’s turn. He trained a year for this and I was hoping for him he wouldn’t struggle at the same move. Unfortunately, he fell at the same volume, making exactly the same mistake. I felt really sorry for him. Fortunately, the rest of the climbers could manage this move easy without any trouble.

I was wondering what the audience was thinking. I let everyone down; my family, my friends and my supporters. I wasn’t able to fight or enjoy the route. At that moment I had so many questions going through my mind. Is this what I have trained for the past few weeks? I spent many hours in the gym for this. Does this mean I am weak? How far would Ulf, Gerke and I get if we all passed this move? Was I able to top the route if I managed that move? Did I climb too safe? Did I make a reading mistake? I don’t know, but I do know that I wasn’t fucking pumpy or could fight before I fell out of the route. The way I deal with my performance during and after the competition is also part of competition climbing. 1 tiny mistake and you’re out of the game.

The route was set magnificently, no doubt about that. After the competition I had a short evaluation with chiefsetter Tonde Katiyo and asked him about his thoughts. In short: he felt sorry for us but he was satisfied about the route.

Tonde

In the end the learned lessons are: better luck next time and perhaps walk into the space of the audience to check out the holds of the route.

I ended up 8th yesterday which doesn’t satisfy me at all. Click here to view the results. I still feel disappointed about my result, knowing that this was just a snapshot. Instead of a highpoint, it felt like a lowpoint to me. In the week before the nationals I was doubting about participating because I had a severe cold. So in that respect I’m happy that I was part of the nationals. However, I
would have loved to have climbed higher and show how far I could have gotten.

Anyway, thank you for all the love and support. I hope I pleased the crowd and I’m happy for the climbers who were able to fight, shine and climb yesterday!

Hello climbers!

Saturday 28th of november the Lotto NC Lead 2015 will be hosted at De Klimmuur Centraal in Amsterdam. Check out on this website who will fight for the Dutch Champion title and buy your tickets for €10, in the webshop. [Text and source: NKBV.nl] Unfortunately the tickets are sold out…

Audience2014

The poll results shows that I have the most supporters. I feel honoured for that. I will have oodles of fun tomorrow, that’s for sure 😉 Can’t make it to Amsterdam? No problem, you can check the livestream at home!

Click here for the startlist.
Dinner will start from 5.30 PM voor €7,50-.
Women will start from 7.00 PM.
Men will start from 8.15 PM.
Price ceremony will start approximately from 10.00 PM.

I think I will be climbing at 8.30 PM! I’m looking forward to it and you? Enjoy watching the livestream and please cheer for me because I think I will need it 😀 See you tomorrow 🙂

Livestream lead nationals 2015

NKBV_2014_NK

Foto: Truong tijdens het NK in 2014

You know, I’m always curious what everyone thinks when it comes to the results of the Lead Nationals. I created a poll for you. Please vote and lets find out if your result will come true in 2 weeks!

Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Lynn van der Meer (36%, 21 Votes)
  • Aniek Lith (17%, 10 Votes)
  • Pauline Schreurs (12%, 7 Votes)
  • Tiba Vroom (10%, 6 Votes)
  • Roelien van de Vrie (9%, 5 Votes)
  • Nikki van Bergen (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Marianne van der Steen (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Iris Straatsma (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Corien Prins (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 72

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Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Truong Ngo (31%, 22 Votes)
  • Mark Brand (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Gerke Hoekstra (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Nigel Armino (13%, 9 Votes)
  • Don van Laere (10%, 7 Votes)
  • Casper ten Sijthoff (8%, 6 Votes)
  • Ulf Lennertz (6%, 4 Votes)
  • Tim Reuser (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Wouter van Roessel (1%, 1 Votes)
  • Tom Reuvers (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 75

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Put this date November 28th in your calendar, it will be excited! NC Lead, get your tickets here.

Last weekend was the final option to qualify for the Lead Nationals. This competition was held at Ivy climbing gym in Sittard. It was a beautiful weekend to climb outdoors but I signed up for this competition last minute. It was my 2nd competition of the year and wanted to check out my lead fitness at the moment.

poster

I climbed a few routes to warm up. When I checked out the competitors list, I saw a lot of climbers who didn’t show up. I was hoping to compete against 18 other men, but only 12 showed up 🙁

menlist

womenlist

Here’s a side note to all competitors: Please sign out if you don’t compete. Thank you in advance.

@NKBV: I think we could improve this process by changing our current signup process. There are 4 qualification comps in total. When you sign up online for a competition, you should pay immediately instead of paying on arrival at the competition. This could be a major block to enter a competition, however it shows a clear list of the competitors for a game. Ulf suggested another alternative: when you sign up and not show up at the competition, you’ll receive a yellow card. When you receive 2 yellow cards, you’re out of the game – disqualified – no championship.

From the climbing gym’s point of view, it’s good to know how many competitors show up. I see benefits for the gym, judges and motivated competitors. This way we could avoid the no-show-ups, this is a win-win situation for everyone I think. I hope the competition committee will read and think about this process for next year.

It was fun to see that there was a big difference between age. No longer was I part of the youngsters, but part of the old climbers. Well old climbers like me, came prepared with comp experience 😀 I was here to collect points, so I could still enter the lead championships. In short, there was no room for errors, pure business.

The first qualification was fun. From sight it looked like it was a 6c but when I climbed it, it felt more like 7a+. I made a little mistake at the end of the route however I was able to recover from that and managed to top out the route.

Q1.2

Q1.1

Q1 (Custom)

The second route seemed a bit harder. Chiefsetter Ollie climbed the route as a demo and tried his very best to make this route look like at least 7c+ / 8a.

Q2.5

Q2.4

The crux part for me was to get past the round volume. When I was climbing, I felt okay getting into this kneebar but passing the following 3 holds was the crux. It was enough to advance to the finals of this comp.

Q2 (Custom)

Overall pic (Custom)

finallist

The final route was a nice test piece for me. Again it was set in the overhang. I focused on the last few holds. I knew it was going to be hard from ¾ of the route. The first part of the route felt good to me. I was struggling with some feet sequence but that didn’t stop me from climbing.

F1.3

F1.2

F1

At the end I was surprised that only Casper managed to climb higher than me with 1 hold. I expected at least 2 climbers would pass me, but that didn’t happen. I was happy I ended up 2nd!! Yeah! Silver wooohooo! 😀

Podium

I collected enough points to enter the Lead Championships for this year. My goal for today was achieved. I guess my fitness is okay so far and still have some time to train hard 😉 Click here to view the overall results. See you next time in Amsterdam! 😀

@Paul Lahaye: Thanks for the awesome photos!
@Anouk: Thanks for driving and making snapshots 🙂

Good afternoon you all!

Dust 2015 was a great event yesterday! I was waiting in front of the gym at 9.45 AM, so psyched to climb!

Waiting

Photo credits: Chris Waitzman

I wasn’t the only one waiting at the door though. Among a crowd of psyched climbers we were all waiting for the gym to open.

psyched

I felt quite excited when I peeked through the windows and saw Monk was ready to receive 250 (!) climbers.

Prep

And at 10.01 AM the gym doors were open and I was the first climber who received a scoreform!

register

Yeah I was ready to climb. Once again my mind was set to climb the most boulders of the day. I didn’t want to spend many attempts on each boulder, simply because there was no time for that. I was aiming to climb boulders which could lose lots of texture after many climbs. After that I spent time on some hard boulder problems. It took me quite some time to finish 8 hard problems. I decided not to spend more than 5 attempts for each hard problem. I think that worked out well.

enter first

After that I spent time on queuing and climbing many problems. I liked many problems, different styles and different kind of holds. Some of the holds were really sharp! Some of the boulder problems I didn’t even try, it would take too much time waiting. The new walls are definitely a nice add on to the gym!

At the end of the day I was quite surprised my skin was still okay. I expected to have bleeding fingers but that didn’t happen. I climbed 78 problems out of 94 total problems. Even though my top 8 wasn’t really high, I was proud at myself of achieving such a list.

scoreform

afterevent

This year Dust felt dustier than ever. In the ranking game I ended up 9th with my top 8 hardest problem. In the All You Can Boulder category I ended up 2nd with 78 problems.

scoreform2

Tim sent 92, quite impressive! I guess I could call my day a success 😀

price

1daypostclimbing

With 4 bags of chalk, I’m good to go for another few weeks 😉 Thank you for the great boulders Monk and thank you Black Diamond for supplying me with chalk 😀

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