Posts Tagged ‘Climbing’

Hey everyone!

Yesterday was the big show in Amsterdam. I hope all of you had fun to see the best competition climbers at work! If not, watch it here again.

Livestream lead nationals 2015

This championship was an important day on my calendar. Since I entered the lead competition, I was serious about competing, wanting to fight and win. I marked this day as a highpoint to see how fit I am at the moment.

Warming up in the iso for 2 hours seemed no problem. Despite my fever, cold and cough last week, I could set my mind to relax and focus on this one route.

Presentation

When I arrived at the gym, I was really curious what kind of route Tonde had set for us. My first impression of the route was: this route is set for me, this is all about compression, a lot of volumes, awesome!! The holds looked big, maybe one crux near the long snake hold into an undercling, but with good feet work I should be able to manage that. I used my monocular to check out the holds on top.

silhouette

The beginning was hard to see, because I was standing just below the route, moving to left or right didn’t really improve the view.
In short, the route looked really cool. I couldn’t wait to climb in this ambiance, with so many people cheering, among supporters and friends!

Walking back to isolation, my head was set to competition mode. It was time to wear my harness, pick the right shoes and wait for my turn.

Once I entered the gym, I was really looking forward to climb! I didn’t want to climb too fast or too slow. The first 3 draws were no problem at all. I was even able to find a good rest position in the beginning by sitting on this huge volume with my foot. From here I moved onwards to the next volume. The next step was a big move, where I moved my right hand first and went for a jump.

NKLead

Photocredits: Sytse van Slooten

Once my feet didn’t get any pressure anymore it felt like I was pulled away from the wall. I didn’t see the hold on top of the volume, just a vague tickmark. It happened all too fast before I realized what had happened. I was back on the floor.

My thoughts right after the climb: What the F@##!%$#@%!$#!!??@

I wanted to express my feeling by screaming out loud, throwing my shoes against the wall or throw away my chalkbag, but no I’m not like that and so I remained calm 🙁 I was really disappointed in myself. I should’ve jumped with 2 hands, one aiming for the tickmark, the other aiming for the corner of the volume.

When I untied the rope, Ulf told me the same had happened to him. I was hoping no one else would struggle so early in the route. There are risks taken if a route is set like this. A risky show element is fun for everyone, however in my opinion not so early in the route. I think the crowd would have been more entertained if they could have seen the climbers fight all the way in the route!

After my performance it was Gerke’s turn. He trained a year for this and I was hoping for him he wouldn’t struggle at the same move. Unfortunately, he fell at the same volume, making exactly the same mistake. I felt really sorry for him. Fortunately, the rest of the climbers could manage this move easy without any trouble.

I was wondering what the audience was thinking. I let everyone down; my family, my friends and my supporters. I wasn’t able to fight or enjoy the route. At that moment I had so many questions going through my mind. Is this what I have trained for the past few weeks? I spent many hours in the gym for this. Does this mean I am weak? How far would Ulf, Gerke and I get if we all passed this move? Was I able to top the route if I managed that move? Did I climb too safe? Did I make a reading mistake? I don’t know, but I do know that I wasn’t fucking pumpy or could fight before I fell out of the route. The way I deal with my performance during and after the competition is also part of competition climbing. 1 tiny mistake and you’re out of the game.

The route was set magnificently, no doubt about that. After the competition I had a short evaluation with chiefsetter Tonde Katiyo and asked him about his thoughts. In short: he felt sorry for us but he was satisfied about the route.

Tonde

In the end the learned lessons are: better luck next time and perhaps walk into the space of the audience to check out the holds of the route.

I ended up 8th yesterday which doesn’t satisfy me at all. Click here to view the results. I still feel disappointed about my result, knowing that this was just a snapshot. Instead of a highpoint, it felt like a lowpoint to me. In the week before the nationals I was doubting about participating because I had a severe cold. So in that respect I’m happy that I was part of the nationals. However, I
would have loved to have climbed higher and show how far I could have gotten.

Anyway, thank you for all the love and support. I hope I pleased the crowd and I’m happy for the climbers who were able to fight, shine and climb yesterday!

Hello climbers!

Saturday 28th of november the Lotto NC Lead 2015 will be hosted at De Klimmuur Centraal in Amsterdam. Check out on this website who will fight for the Dutch Champion title and buy your tickets for €10, in the webshop. [Text and source: NKBV.nl] Unfortunately the tickets are sold out…

Audience2014

The poll results shows that I have the most supporters. I feel honoured for that. I will have oodles of fun tomorrow, that’s for sure 😉 Can’t make it to Amsterdam? No problem, you can check the livestream at home!

Click here for the startlist.
Dinner will start from 5.30 PM voor €7,50-.
Women will start from 7.00 PM.
Men will start from 8.15 PM.
Price ceremony will start approximately from 10.00 PM.

I think I will be climbing at 8.30 PM! I’m looking forward to it and you? Enjoy watching the livestream and please cheer for me because I think I will need it 😀 See you tomorrow 🙂

Livestream lead nationals 2015

NKBV_2014_NK

Foto: Truong tijdens het NK in 2014

You know, I’m always curious what everyone thinks when it comes to the results of the Lead Nationals. I created a poll for you. Please vote and lets find out if your result will come true in 2 weeks!

Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Lynn van der Meer (36%, 21 Votes)
  • Aniek Lith (17%, 10 Votes)
  • Pauline Schreurs (12%, 7 Votes)
  • Tiba Vroom (10%, 6 Votes)
  • Roelien van de Vrie (9%, 5 Votes)
  • Nikki van Bergen (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Marianne van der Steen (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Iris Straatsma (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Corien Prins (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 72

Loading ... Loading ...

Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Truong Ngo (31%, 22 Votes)
  • Mark Brand (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Gerke Hoekstra (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Nigel Armino (13%, 9 Votes)
  • Don van Laere (10%, 7 Votes)
  • Casper ten Sijthoff (8%, 6 Votes)
  • Ulf Lennertz (6%, 4 Votes)
  • Tim Reuser (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Wouter van Roessel (1%, 1 Votes)
  • Tom Reuvers (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 75

Loading ... Loading ...

Put this date November 28th in your calendar, it will be excited! NC Lead, get your tickets here.

Hey there!

I just spotted this video and want to share it with you.

Everyone in the climbing scene probably have heard of La Sportiva ambassador Jorg Verhoeven and we’re proud of him! He free climbed The Nose on Yosemite’s El Capitan. In my opinion one of the most impressive climbs in history. Louder Than 11 did a good job on video editing.

Check it out!

Video: Jorg Verhoeven’s ascent of the most famous route in the world

Monk-DustYesterday the 6th edition of Dust open competition was held at Monk Bouldergym! I was quite excited cause I managed to sign up last minute.

I didn’t climb the last few days to save up some energy and some climbing skin on my fingers. I prepared my lunch at home and arrived at the gym 5 to 10. The doors weren’t open yet, but I was psyched to climb! I knew Monk would use new holds and a bunch of new volumes.

When I entered I was one of the first climbers. I received a T-shirt. There was a box full of pencils and topoguides. Monk was ready to receive a lot of climbers today! There were 90 boulders set in total, all spread over the gym.

DSC04533

DSC04534

I started to warm up on a few easy boulders on the training wall. After that I searched for some vertical wall problems. In my mind I had prepared some strategy to tackle all the problems. My goal for today was to climb as many problems as I could including hard problems.

DSC04535

DSC04537

DSC04538

After 40 boulders I decided to take short lunch break. It was already quite dusty which was no surprise if you have 250 other climbers around you. After my lunch break I changed climbing shoes. I tried some hard problems. Some of the hard problems took longer than expected, other problems I managed to climb in 1 or 2 attempts. This year some of the 7b and most of the 7c problems were set hard. I tried a few attempts in one lime 8a boulder, but it took too much effort and quite some skin. I was decisive and continued to climb less hard problems.

DSC04540

DSC04541

DSC04542

At 3 P.M. I wasn’t tired yet. Status from this point: managed to climb 68 boulders so far!

DSC04545

So I still had 22 boulders to go. Sometimes it takes a while to wait in line because it was too crowded. It was so cool to climb on new holds. I like the new Made by Monk holds in particular the pockets.

Anyway, I was glad I still had skin left on my fingers. The last 2 hours I didn’t climb that many problems. I ended up with 73 boulders out of 90! My best 8 problems had a score of 5800 points. I was wondering if that was good enough to end up in the top 10.

To me it was a daily challenge to climb as many problems as possible. Surprisingly I wasn’t that tired yet. Anyway, I knew there were other climbers trying to climb all the problems as well. Elko was one of them. He managed to climb 1 more boulder, well done!

DSC04544

When it was time for the price ceremony, I was quite surprised. During the competition I saw Rustam Gelmanov cruising through these hard boulders. He seems really fit to me. I knew Rustam was the best climber of the day, however there was another guy from Belgium who claimed to have climbed all the 90 boulders! That means this guy had won the hardest category and also the most boulders of the day. I think this is just a super lame way to win a price. Why did I just say that? Well, I saw a lot of people climb. The hard boulders are quite obvious however I didn’t see him climb any of them. Usually I don’t care about the results, but to be honest I don’t believe you can climb the hardest boulders and all of the boulders in a few hours.

@Belgian guy: If you climb all the boulders, just like you claimed last year, then I will be happy to climb along with you next year. Obviously I lack technique and power, therefore you can show me how you tackle the hardest problems. Please do contact me. If you climb all the hardest boulders, why won’t you join the boulder Worldcups this year? I’m sure you can win easily 😉

Back to results. I ended up 3rd 2nd in All you can climb category and ended up 7th 6th in the overall score ranking. It was an amazing day with fun boulders.

Update February 3rd 5 P.M.: Did you compete too? Check your result here.

DSC04548

I’m glad these boulders will stay for a while so I can finish the rest of the boulders on my list. Thanks for the great time everyone. I enjoyed a day of climbing! See you around in Monk.

Olaaaa!

Last 2 weeks I visited Spain. I escaped the cold in The Netherlands and was enjoying El Chorro where the weather was sunny.

Jérôme picked me up by car at Malaga.

DSC04357

DSC04366

From there we drove about 1 hour to El Chorro. These rocks are south located and best visited during winter times. Great planning and I was looking forward to it for a while.

Tuesday we started to explore the rocks. It took us nearly 1,5 hours to walk and find the sector Makinodromo. It wasn’t easy to get there, because you will have to enter traintunnels and ascend more or less 250 meters.

DSC04346

DSC04268

On this ledge we were a bit focused on the walk. At this height you don’t want to fall haha.

DSC04278

DSC04283

Carrying waterbottles, food, gear and rope is quite heavy and the walk was killing us. We climbed there 4 days in a row. The routes are between 25 and 40 meters. At the end of the week we felt dead.

DSC04258

By the way, here is a nice indication of the routes at El Chorro.

El-Chorro

Source: www.bernabefernandez.com

We had 1 restday and went back to Malaga to pick up a friend of Jérôme. François Peraldi joined us for a week. Welcome to Spain senior!

The next day we visited a new area. We visited Archidona cueva, which is near Antequera.

DSC04385

DSC04372

DSC04373

We were hoping it was half in the sun, however when we arrived there, the cave was in the shadow and full of bird shit.

DSC04369

DSC04368

DSC04382

DSC04379

The routes are amazing though! It has a lot of overhang. I found an overview of the routes in the cave as well.

Archidona

Source: www.bernabefernandez.com

I had my eyes on this route Kallisté which I read about on the internet. It was definitely worth a go. 40 meters, overhang, it was almost perfect.

IMGP1017

IMGP1105

IMGP1203

IMGP1053

We climbed here for 2 days, it just felt too cold. One of the benefits of Archidona is that walking from the car to the wall takes about 10 minutes.

DSC04374

However when you see the ground is freezing, you know what time it is. This is a summerspot. Time to find another area.

After Archidona we tried another new area. According the topoguide, Loja supposed to be half in the sun.

DSC04364

We visited that area because the photos in the topoguide looked nice. When we arrived there, we parked the car next to the road and had a look at the crag.

DSC04396

Unfortunately the rocks were quite disappointing, again it was in the shadow and it seemed really short (10 – 15 meters high). We left this area and planned a restday instead.

We visited El Torcal in the afternoon. It looks amazing.

DSC04417

DSC04427

DSC04439

The altitude was 1200M and the rocks are so cool here. We even saw some wild animals running among us.

DSC04434

The last week we went back to El Chorro. We needed some sun after these cold days. The first day was not too bad.

IMGP1244

DSC04445

DSC04448

I was trying to climb Cous cous and managed to pass the hardest crux of the route.

DSC04324

The sequence in the middle of the route wasn’t so obvious to read. I tried different methods but after a while I wanted to put effort in new routes. This route has been downgraded to 8b+ anyway. I switched to different routes and managed to climb an 8 every day.

IMGP1515

IMGP1502

IMGP1538

IMGP1524

Again after 4 days of climbing in a row, plus the walk towards Makinodromo was simply exhausting.

DSC04459

DSC04467

DSC04470

Just for your info: I think our record is to walk within 1 hour towards Makinodromo. The run down was funny. It took more or less 10 minutes 😀 hahaha!

Here’s a summary of my sends during these 2 weeks.

Sector Makinodromo:

Grade Name Attempt
6C Life is Sweet flash
7A+ Hakuna Matata flash
7B La Columna de Gollum onsight
7B Las Loi Laufen onsight
7C+ Smashing Pumpkins 2 tries
8A Porrot 2nd go
8A Lourdes 4th go
8a Pepe El Boludo flash
8a+ Randi L1 3rd go
8b+ Cous cous work out, no send

Sector Archidona cueva:

Grade Name Attempt
7A+ Amantis Religiosa flash
7A+ Cayo Malayo onsight
7A+ Posiblemente Iluevan Piedras flash
7C Antonia onsight
8C Kallisté 4 tries, no send

Sector Loja:
Short, shadow, not worth to visit ever again.

My top 3 routes of this holiday:
Number 3 is Lourdes. It has 2 big holes and 2 small crimps to start with, I love those crimps. The rest of the holds are super!

IMGP1258

If you climb technical you will find some hidden kneebars in these tufas. After the send, I climbed this route every day to warm up.

IMGP1494

IMGP1416

Loving the endurance of +30 meters! I rate it *** stars.

Number 2 is definitely Pepe El Boludo. I think this is one of the longest routes in this sector: 38 meter. We were at the end of our rope. It has everything, from slopey holds to tufas. Big thanks to Jérôme for the beta method. I enjoyed the climb. Muy bien ***!

Number 1 is definitely Kallisté in Archidona. This route is at least 35 meters in a very overhanging wall. The first 20 meters is more or less 7c+ / 8a and from here it starts to get bouldery and all you think about is how to survive, not letting go of the holds and try to climb efficient.

IMGP1066

I managed to climb 90% of the route, definitely worth a comeback very soon! My dream route: *****

IMGP1439

IMGP1557

Jérôme and François, thank you for the great time in Spain! For now I’m back in Eindhoven, back on plastic fantastic holds. See you around!

Language
Sponsors
Tags
Socials
Archive
Search
Contact
For any inquiries, click here to send me an e-mail.