Posts Tagged ‘Climbing’

Hello climbers! It has been a while that I have written a story on my blog. I have to admit it is easier to share a photo via Instagram at times. Anyway, I posted some photos of Verdon a while ago and I would like to share my story with you!

My goal of the trip was to climb a lot in a new area. I wanted to do some multipitching and combine it with some sport climbing. My first multipitch experience was far away in Marocco. This time I was looking for a destination somewhat closer to home. We chose for the Verdon in south-France because I haven’t been there yet. I wanted to climb with my French climbing buddies Jérôme and Etienne. They have been climbing there before and could guide me in this area. For me it was the perfect time to meet and check out a new area like the Verdon. From Eindhoven I flew with my packed luggage (20 KG filled with material) and rucksack towards Marseille and got picked up by Jérôme at the airport.

Goodmorning! Selfie Sunday 😁📷 on my way to the 🛫⛰️🌄🌞 #climbing_is_my_passion

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From the point of view of Marseille the village La Palud sur Verdon was faced in the northeast direction. It was a 2 hour drive from the airport to the village. We didn’t even arrive yet and I already wanted to take some photos of the view. I could stare for hours to the water. When we arrived the view was just breathtaking!

For our accommodation we selected a bungalow where we could fit in with 4 climbers. When we arrived at the campsite, Etienne just received the keys for the bungalow. It was a perfect timing to check it out. The bungalow was quite simple containing a kitchen, dining area, bathroom and 2 rooms with a view on the landscape. It was a super cozy bungalow with everything we could ask for.

After we had settled down from the travelling we were going to check out a sports climbing area: sector Pantin du Néant. It was 20 minutes away by car. We parked the car in the forest and walked about 15 minutes. The last part of the approach was some klettersteig traverse. This climbing area is not well known yet.

On the internet you can find a topo guide from Pantin du Néant, however it is not yet the final version (source: Charlotte Durif)
There is a nice overview on Bonoway.
Click here to download the provisional topo guide. Furthermore I have the exact coordinates to find your way to the crag: Latitude: 43° 44′ 6″ N, Longitude: 6° 21′ 20″ E
And the coordinated to park your car: Latitude: 43° 44′ 1″ N, Longitude: 6° 21′ 9″ E

The view was amazing. The huge gorge was 200 meter deep, this is part of a regional nature park of the Verdon, which has a size of 180.000 hectare. Between the gorge there is a riverbed of 25 km. Realizing these facts and looking at the rocks I felt quite small.

After a warm up in a 7A+ route we worked out a 8A+ route, De l’o2 dans le gaz. This route, also known as the king line of the area, started from a plateau which was 200m high from the ground. The route had multiple cruxes of which the last crux was just 5 meters before the anchor. The climbing was really cool, especially the view when you come down from the top. You’re looking straight into the void, that was pretty cool. 😀

The 2nd day we went to the sector La Ramirole. The approach was a bit longer and also a bit more challenging. I had to prepare myself with a harness and gloves to rappel down some parts. I enjoyed the approach and I was distracted by the surroundings.

The nature is beautiful. We were surrounded by trees and once we exited the forest, we were facing massive rocks. This area is perfect for some sports climbing and climbing multipitches. We started with a 6C route. The rocks felt pretty raw. After this route we picked a vertical 8A in sector 3: La guerre des paires. The crux of the route was somewhat morpho for my length, however it resulted into some great photos during the climb.

That same evening another climber joined us, a climbing buddy from Etienne, his name was Baptiste. He was well introduced: the one arm pullup guy. He was a strong dude, he could prove that the following days. For the next day we picked a multipitch: Take it or leave it, from the well-known Patrick Edlinger. It is a vertical 8A and it was 120 meter containing 4 pitches starting with a 7C, 7A+, 7C and ending with a 8A.

To climb this route, we had to rappel down. In my opinion this was quite special. We prepared ourselves, put our harnesses on, rappelled down to the middle of the route for the first stop. From here we rappelled down again to the ground. Our rope was too short, hence 2 times rappelling down. All of the pitches I climbed was on lead. The last pitch took me the most effort. It started with a super cool mantle where you had to place your foot next to your ear to mantle your way up. Then there was a traverse to the right on 2 mono pockets. Eventually I had 2 bad pockets which was spread so far from eachother I could barely fit in between with my arms. With my face almost pressed against the wall, I smeared my feet on friction and had to launch myself for a dyno move. I had to commit for this move, otherwise I couldn’t make it. Unfortunately I couldn’t climb the last pitch in 1 attempt. For Etienne it was a dream come true, he managed to flash this last pitch thanks to our support.

In the photo above, I was belaying Baptiste who just launched himself for the dyno move. Once we got to the summit, we could finally celebrate our team send. It was a successful day where we could take down this awesome multipitch!

On our 4th day we went back to the sector Pantin du Néant. It was more or less meant as an active rest day. Etienne sent the 8A+ route in his first attempt, this was the route we worked out on the first day. I could join the send train and climbed 2 routes: a 7A+ for warmup and the same 8A+ route, de l’o2 dans le gaz in my first attempt. Baptiste also climbed this route and another classic 8A, Pantin du Néant.

I almost managed to flash this route. I could make all the moves and I really wanted to send this line, therefore I saved my energy and save this route for the next time.

The 5th day we went climbing early. We picked an easy multipitch which was quite adventurous. The name of the multipitch was: Alix punk de vergons, a 7B+ multipitch which was 300 meters long containing 10 pitches: 5C, 7A+, 6C+, 7A+, 7B, 6C+, 6C+, 7B, 6C and 7A. It took quite some preparation. We brought a double rope 2×50 meter with us, harness, lifeline, helmet, reverso, some carabiners, micro traxion, gloves, prusikrope, Petzl lightweight draws, comfortable La Sportiva climbing shoes, some Clif bars and water.

The goal was to climb the full multipitch in the shadow. I learned a lot from my multipitch experience but I wasn’t fast enough to keep up with the rest. My rope technique has improved a bit during the climb. Jérôme and I took a break of 10 minutes to digest a Clif bar and drank some water. I was the slowest climber of all, climbed the last 2 pitches in the sun and made it to the summit in 4 hours.

F.l.t.r.: Truong, Baptiste, Jérôme, Etienne. The photo was taken right after we got back from the multipitch. On the background you can see the 300 meter wall which was now facing the sun. 3 days climbing trip was over for Baptiste and he went back home. Tired but still going strong we went back home as well and celebrated our climb with a delicious pizza in the sun. It was another victorious day!

On the 6th day Jérôme, Etienne and I went back to the sector Pantin du Néant. The approach went quick. My focus was to climb super-efficient after all these days. My warm up and also cooling down was the 8A route which I last time didn’t finish. Fortunately I could send the route on my first attempt. Etienne worked out a 8B and managed to send it the same day!

We had climbed plenty routes to celebrate the day. We treated ourselves on a beer and a 3 dish menu in a restaurant. Our week was awesome!

The 7th day we went back to the same sector Pantin du Néant. I had no expectations of this day. Etienne suggested me to try this 8B route, Bébert, les couilles en fer. I worked out all the moves and found 4 kneebar positions.

On my 1st attempt my heelhook zipped away from the biggest jug of the route. It was such a pity to stand on the ground again. After a good break with some baguette and cheese I focused myself on the route again. It became darker as the end of the day was approaching. I was super motivated to commit for the route. I started my climb and enjoyed the moves and swung from one hold to another. I knew I could make all the moves and I knew I could send it, but it was time to prove it. In Neoliet I was training for moments like these, to give everything even when you’re tired. Against all my expectations I passed all cruxes of the route, it finally came down to the last few meters. I had to commit all the moves and finally I reached the chain! Yes!! 😀 😀 I was so happy I could take down this route and finish my 7 day push.

On day 8 Jérôme drove me back to the airport and I flew back to Eindhoven. To cut a long story short, I enjoyed all climbing days. I love the Verdon because it is beautiful and it is perfect to climb during these summer months. I would like to return here every year to climb more routes. My week in the Verdon was a major success thanks to Jérôme and Etienne!

My goal has been achieved, because I could climb a lot of routes.

I hope you enjoyed reading my story and experience. If you want to multipitch, the Verdon is definitely worth to check it out!

Hello climbers!

Recently I have been training for the lead season again. I find it fun to transition my boulder strength into endurance, which means getting totally pumped in the forearms.

The summer weather has motivated me to climb more. I have been climbing a few weeks in a row now to gain endurance. Yesterday was the perfect moment to test myself during the kickoff for the national lead competition.

The two qualification routes went quite well, I collected enough points to advance to the finals.
The first qualification felt relatively easy to me. I think most of the competitors topped this route. The second qualification route felt more bouldery than the first route and was set on a vertical wall.

The final route began with a run start. Nowadays you are seeing a lot of these running problems set on boulders. It was the first time I saw this set in a route. The setter took a small risk there, but fortunately it went well because everyone managed to pass this first part. Anyway, I didn’t want to do this move statically, so I ran and jumped towards the next two holds 🙂 Fortunately I managed to grab the huge jugs and could cruise most of the time in the finals route.

Unfortunately I didn’t top out the route but I enjoyed the climb a lot. I just missed the podium by ending up 4th. Instead of 3 competition routes I climbed almost 10 routes that day and had a lot of fun. In my opinion, having fun is an important factor during a competition day.

Check out the results here. All photos are copyrighted by NKBV.

Would you like to compete too? Sign up here.
See you on the next lead qualification! 😀

September 3rd 2017 – Lead 2 Mountain Network Amsterdam
October 15th 2017 – Lead 3 Grip Klimcentrum, Nijmegen
November 5th 2017 – Lead 4 I-VY Climbing, Sittard

Hello climbers!

I’m back for an announcement!

This Saturday the sport national championship will take place in Amsterdam. It is the time of the year to witness the best 20 competition climbers in action and I’m one of the performers 😀 The tickets are sold out. But no worries, livestream is available for those who want to tune in.

The reason why I was off the grid was due to a knee injury. Fortunately I recovered from that injury and I have been training like Patxi for the past few months. That means pushing limits while carrying extra weights. I love the transition from bouldering to lead climbing. Anyway, yesterday was my final training and I can’t wait to go a muerte on Saturday!

Update for the provisional program:
19.30h start women’s final
20.45h start men’s final
22.30h price ceremony

I will be in action around 21.10h. Wish me luck! See you on Saturday 😀

The past few weekends I have been visiting Berdorf, which is my favourite forest. I always enjoy nature, especially when it comes down to climbing on sandstone.

I remember the first time I set foot in Berdorf with some climbing friends from Nijmegen. In April 2007 I climbed my first 7c Scramasax in sector Isatis and I was aiming for more beautiful gems.

Sector Takla Makan

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Since my first visit I came back to this area many times to repeat the same fun routes. 7 years later my focus changed. Instead of climbing just the popular and the hardest routes in this area, my wish is to climb all the routes within my reach.

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According to the 2nd edition of the topoguide Berdorf counts 16 sectors and a special chapter with combinations of lines. Last weekend I managed to finish 2 sectors by climbing the easy routes. So far I finished the sectors Gentiane, Bleausard, Scheffelchen and Takla Makan. Some of the sectors are nearly finished because I only have to climb 1 more route and some of the sectors are unclimbed and still new to me.

Sitta, Saka, Contact

The total sum of routes which are ticked off in my topoguide comes down to 90. My most recent sends can be found here. I’m proud of this number and I can’t wait to climb more outdoor routes in this beautiful forest!

Hi climbers!

As you know the lead season started a month ago. The first lead competition was held in Tilburg. I consider Neoliet Tilburg as one of my home gyms where I like to climb in the amazing roof.

The qualification routes went pretty well. The first route was set in the roof. I had no trouble with the roof climbing and it felt like a warm up route to me. The second route was set on the main wall. It was more a long boulder with a challenging start. Fortunately I could boulder my way up and because of this I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I can cut my story short about the finals. My left foot slipped from the first hold. My attempt was over. I felt unhappy, however I know how to cope with disappointment. Unfortunately I ended up 8th.

After the competition I went to Italy for 2 weeks. I just got back from a relaxing holiday to Arco when 3 days later the 2nd lead competition was held in Amsterdam. I had to change my focus from rock to plastic in a short period of time. Before the competition I climbed routes in Tilburg and had another boulder session in Monk. With a rest day in between the climbing sessions I was hoping for a peak moment during the competition.

This competition was held in Mountain Network Amsterdam. The first route was easy, I topped this route without getting pumped in my forearms. The second route went really well until I fell on the last move. I advanced as 2nd to the finals.

I had plenty of time to prepare for the finals. The route contained a lot of moves. My endurance level was being tested during my climb. I could climb and fight until I was totally pumped in my forearms.

Finals

I ended up 2nd which currently places me 3rd in the overall ranking. I’m happy with the result and will try to keep my place or advance to the top!

Truong-w-medal

For now there are no lead competitions planned. The next one will take place in September, at Rock Steady Bussum. After that the last competition at I-VY Climbing Sittard in October. I will keep you posted 🙂

At the end of last year I went to Turkey for some awesome tufa climbing. My Instagram followers have already seen some pictures of this trip, but here is the full story, including even more pictures.

The weather in GeyikBayiri was perfect. Clear blue skies and not a single drop of rain!

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Together with my friend Jérôme I shared a bungalow on the camping Climbers Garden. Daniel, Jurgen and Sven, friends with whom I climbed here 2 years ago, stayed at campsite Josito. Click here to check the post from back then.

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Goodmorning! Can't wait to enjoy this fruit muesli 😊 #climbersgarden photocredits: 📷 @jvercout

A photo posted by Truong Ngo (@truongngocom) on

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During this trip we went many times to Çitdibi where we enjoyed long tufas in perfect conditions. The first day was still a little bit chilly, but luckily this also resulted in very good friction on the rock.

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During the trip I kept a list of all the routes I climbed in these 2 weeks time. I am very proud of all the routes I topped.

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Sitting around in Caro James weddingpresent #cidtibi #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

A photo posted by Truong Ngo (@truongngocom) on

@truongngocom #climbing in #citdibi

A photo posted by Daniel Schmid (@d_schmid_) on

Besides all the climbing I have also made a beautiful hike together with Jeroen Kuipers.

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He nowadays lives in GeyikBayiri and works for Climbers Garden, which has expanded with some luxury accommodations: The Land.

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Jeroen shared interesting facts about the history of Trebenna and showed us some remains of this former village. Very impressive to see these artifacts exposed to the elements instead of preserved in a museum.

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Besides visiting Trebenna I had another rest day in Antalya.

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And one of the last days I was invited to the wedding ceremony of Tobias and Duygu. It was really nice to be present at their wedding.

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Smiles for life! #josito

A photo posted by Truong Ngo (@truongngocom) on

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From the Netherlands I again congratulate you guys very much and I hope that you will climb many hard routes together in the future!

On my last day I climbed with Duygu in Alabalik. Together we worked in the route Neptulania. Luckily I was able to send this route in my third attempt. This was a really nice end to my climbing holiday.

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A photo posted by Truong Ngo (@truongngocom) on

All the other routes I topped during my stay can be found in my tick list. I didn’t climb super hard routes, nevertheless I ended up with really nice memories and had good times with my climbing buddies!

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