Posts Tagged ‘Climbing Works’

Last week the NKBV made an announcement about Dutch team members going to Sheffield to join the Climbing Works International Festival competition.

I stayed home in The Netherlands however followed my team members coach Wally, Capsle and Vera very closely. All 3 of them managed to advanced to the semis! Among the strong competitors, only Vera made it to the finals.

CWIF Morning session highlights

Berghaus competition wall

CWIF Finals preview

This event was broadcasted live over the internet! I witnessed the finals in the evening and took some screenshots.

The final results are tweeted before though but I’ll repeat it again here.

Casper ten Sijthoff: 12th
Wouter Jongeneelen: 9th
Vera Zijlstra: 5th

View CWIF results here.

Well done!

Today I felt like sleeping late but I had to get up. At 8.30 AM my alarm went off and I fixed breakfast. The weather wasn’t good today however the weather in The Netherlands was way better. Anyway, I am having breakfast and it is the same as yesterday. Toast with ham, yogurt with muesli and I get myself some juice. I pour a full glass of juice because it contains vitamin c and that’s good for my body.

Our planning is being adjusted day by day. It is raining and therefore we can’t climb outdoors. We are heading off to Climbing Works to climb indoors.

Coach Wally shares us that we are conducting a competition simulation. Meanwhile we can warm up and he will make up 4 competition boulders for the men’s and women’s.

Before we start the competition, coach Wally mentions that we will be recorded. I have to pick a boulder and visualize it over and over. In the corner of my eye I spot a tripod with a video cam. Suddenly I see Freddie grabbing his iphone out of his pocket and Channah is pulling out her camera as well. They are recording us and tonight we will analyze it. It were 4 fun boulders and I have the feeling that I had a good training.

On our way home, we make a stop at Curry’s, an electronics shop. Coach Wally forgot his AV cable to hook up the cam on the tv. Freddie runs into an xbox and starts playing. Casper and Nikki found themselves a foot massage machine and put their hands on it. I walk through this ship and get myself a nice computer game. The Euro has nice advantages so it is cheaper. Eventually coach Wally didn’t find what he wanted to have and we are heading off home to eat lunch.

After lunch coach Wally asks us if we still have energy to climb. Nikki, Vera, Channah and me are raising our hands. We decide to go to Climbing Works again for another training session. I change my clothes and start warming up. Fred isn’t climbing and starts to coach me. He picks boulders and tells me to climb it. At each boulder he looks strict at me. It motivates me if someone is keeping me sharp. I see Nikki training and doing series on the wall. I tell Fred that I quit and join Nikki with series. He says okay, turns around and walks away.
I join Nikki and climb a few series on the wall. I am getting tired and have to catch up. It feels good, finally feels like lead climbing!

In the evening Casper and Michiel fixed dinner for everyone. We had pasta with salmon, spinach with cream sauce for dinner. I enjoyed it. Nikki fixed us another surprise, she made fruit salad for us.

After dinner it was up to me to fix the recorded images from the camera. I managed to hook up the camera and installed some drivers on my notebook. I succeeded and we analyzed the videos from my notebook. Channah also showed us the videos from her camera on her notebook. And then Freddie hooked up his iphone on the tv. We saw ourselves climbing and that was quite interesting.

It was a long day. I feel empty. Everyone is busy at the moment. Freddie is playing on his psp, Michiel watching some movies, Nicky is chatting on skype, Casper is playing with his iphone, Channah was already sleeping, Nikki, Wally, Vera and Marjolein were in another room. I am in our living room and try to finish another story for my webpage. It was a late night for me but I managed to publish my story online!

Today we visited Climbing Works again. Beforehand Wouter arranged that we could train in the morning. Routesetters were already busy at the competition wall.

I warmed up in some fun boulders and started a strength session at the campusboard with Nikki, Channah, Nicky, Vera and Wouter.

Meanwhile Casper, Ferdinand and Michiel were trying some of the final boulder problems. Routesetters were testing their new problems as well.

In the afternoon we went back home for some lunch. After lunch Nikki, Channah, Nicky, Marjolein, Vera, Wouter and me returned to Climbing Works for another training session. We started with a light boulder circuit and conducted some individual strength exercises under supervision by Marjolein.

Back at home Michiel was preparing dinner. Casper, Nikki and Marjolein divided tasks among them and kept themselves busy in the kitchen.

Eventually they served delicious rice with chicken and salade! Credits to all of them.

A part of our climbing internship is attending the CWIF10 competition. It is my first time that I am attending this competition. Our cottage is about 10 minutes away from this climbing center. So that is beyond ideal!

We arrived at 8.30 AM and were exploring the walls in this climbing center. It was really awesome to be here. All pink boulders (30 problems) are meant for the qualifications. From 6a up to 8b…

The competition started at 9.30 AM. We began to warm up early. I decided to seek for simple boulder problems. Meanwhile the center was getting quite crowded.

I noticed that some of the holds were polished. These holds are from Holdz. I think it looks awkward however sometimes boulder problems are quite influenced by these holds.

Most of the boulder problems were nice. Some of the problems were really difficult. The boulder setters used lots of volumes and every corner wisely.

Meanwhile Casper and coach Wally were doing good during the qualifications. They managed to flash most of the boulder problems. At 3 PM we handed in our score forms. The best 16 climbers will advance to the semis. Nikki van Bergen climbed really well and ended up 9th! Casper and coach Wally just managed to advance to the semis.

The semis contained strong climbers. Most of the climbers have worldcup competition experience. It was quite a diversified field. From Dutch climbers up to Italians, French, English and more international people. In my view this competition was equal to Worldcup competition level.

Coach Wally, Casper and Nikki had to onsight 4 boulder problems during the semis. I was sitting next to Michiel and our impression about the first men’s problem was that it was similar to a sanding machine.

The rest of the problems were quite tricky. In my opinion it was difficult to find out the correct sequence to send a boulder.
The female boulders were quite impressive as well. Nikki didn’t like her first problem. She felt tired however that is understandable after 30 qualification boulders.

Unfortunately none of us managed to advance to the finals. We were at Climbing Works for 14 hours however it was a great experience to be here. It was a super competition!

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