Posts Tagged ‘Championship’
Come Saturday will be the National Championship Lead climbing. You can still buy tickets to support everyone! I won’t participate however I can wonder about the results beforehand.
My blog wouldn’t be the same if I didn’t add a survey about the results right? So here we go again!
I think it’s quite obvious who will win the lead competition 2011. However to make this more interesting and again original compared to last year’s survey, I’ve changed the question about the expected rankings in both categories. Have fun!
Here we go:
Women contest:
[poll id="19"]
Men contest:
[poll id="18"]
This morning I set my alarm at 6 o’clock but I couldn’t get up on time. I suppose to leave at 6.30h, so I would’ve some spare time for my trip to Schiphol airport, but unfortunately I slept late. I left at 7 o’clock and arrived one hour later at Schiphol.
Fortunately I didn’t have any delay. At the airport I ran into team member Nikki, she was there on time. Team member Elko arrived soon and we’re complete. Checking in went well. This dude at the metal detector checked up on me. I had to open up my bags, but there was nothing dangerous inside my bag. He was just checking out my gadgets, I think he’s jealous at my camera!
The flight to Zurich was nice. I received swiss chocolate during the flight.
It was so delicious, I craved for more. I managed to score some more chocolates with my pure awesomeness at the end of the flight.
We could spend 1 hour at the airport. While Nikki and Elko were busy with their notebooks, I explored the airport. It was quite fun because I could try some fine chocolate sweets. I enjoyed it a lot.
So if you ever have time left at Zurich airport, I suggest you to walk around and you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.
At Zurich, Mathilde and her mom from Sweden joined us. They booked the same flight to Lyon.
When we arrived at Lyon, it was up to fix a rental car.
I booked a small car before, however it was meant for 3 persons. We were with the 5 of us and luckily they had a bigger car available on their parking lot.
We fit well in the car, including our luggage. It took us 2 hours to get to Valence. We managed to get on time at the climbing gym for the registration without navigation.
First we parked our car in the same street of the hotel and checked in. It’s a ** hotel and it’s about 15 minutes by foot to the climbing gym.
To be honest, I’ve seen better hotels in my life. Anyway, I’ll just stay here for a few days!
Next we went downtown to grab a bite. It was already 6.30 P.M. Most of the restaurants open from 7 P.M. We had to hurry because we wanted to be on time for the technical meeting from 7.30 P.M. We ended up in an average restaurant where we got served pretty fast. I ordered entrecote nature avec pomme et salad. Too bad I didn’t have ketchup with my fries. The meat was nice though.
I was too hungry so it was okay I suppose. Nikki picked lasagna and Elko had pizza.
We were on time at the technical meeting. There’s nothing special according the officials.
Nikki will start 7th in her first route and 23rd in her second route. Elko will start 6th in his first route and 28th in his second route. I’ll start 38th in my first route and 16th in my second route.
The programme remains the same. After this meeting we had some desserts to end our long journey. We visited this restaurant near our hotel.
It was super delicious. We’ll definitely return to his restaurant for a meal. After our dessert we went back to our hotel.
That’s it for now. I’m tired and I’m going to sleep because I have to wake up early. Goodnight to everyone and greetings from Valence, France!
Although the NC Boulder was held less than a week ago, I’m already looking forward to my next competition. However this NC Boulder competition deserves a bit more attention, by showing a video which I spotted on the web.
I’m sure everyone has seen it already via the climbing federation webpage, but my family and friends who don’t have that much time on their hands to check the internet for updates, I added a compilation / summary / sphere impression video below from last Saturday. Check it out, it’s really worth watching.
Saturday I woke up pretty early, about half past 9 in the morning without setting an alarm. I was at Utrecht and had plenty of time to prepare my things. To be honest, I didn’t think of the competition at all.
I ate a choco pops biscuit and fixed 2 buns with cheese for breakfast. No butter, it’s too much effort for me. I had too much time on my hands so I tagged along with my sister and checked up on some winter tyres. I quickly ate some instant noodles before I left to Amsterdam. The dried noodles were soaked in boiling water. When you add some flavour to it, it was just perfect. It feels light for your tummy.
I prepared my stuff on Thursday when I left from Utrecht. My journey went well. I arrived about 2 P.M. at the climbing gym.
I received a stamp on my right hand. It was black ink, supposed to be a flower. Next I was exploring around. The women’s finalists were warming up already. The gym impressed me though.
For the first time, there was no roof! It changed the ambiance, lots of light is good! The walls were changed into a boulder paradise. There was a huge stage with mats covered all over the place. The organisation must took quite some effort to get this far. I felt so psyched to climb on stage!
The women’s semis was amusing. There were only 8 women though. The results weren’t suprising to me.
It was time for me to enter the isolation area. Jesse van der Werf signed out, we were left with 11 competitors. After warming up and a short briefing from the judges, I had to get ready. I felt quite relaxed. There was plenty of time for me, due to the random list I started nearly as last climber.
I didn’t want to know much about the results. Therefore I started listening some music on my ipod and stretch my muscles. When I sat on the couch next to Hans Busker, he told me more than I wanted to know. He was observing the sound of the audience and figured out the scores. Loud noise meant a top. Some how he knew there was a double dyno problem. Again we heard loud cheering, “Yes, at this point Wally must have jumped into the double dyno!”, Hans told me. These scores seems to suck his attention too much. I focused my attention on my start number.
I could stick it on my own back and polished my shoes. I have a big brush for that, quite easy to remove the chalk and dirty bits off my shoes. I put on my Boreal Falcon climbing shoes and pulled on my laces pretty tight. It was boring in the isolation. The other climbers could have fun while I was waiting.
Meanwhile the isolation area started to get empty. I could nearly start with my semis. My target for today: just climb relaxed. Every time I focus on a competition, it goes wrong. When I focus well at the problems, I know I can do it! If the movements seems impossible, than most probably I’m doing something wrong.
The first problem went okay. It was an orange problem set with positive holds. I could make the movements quite easy. However there was 1 short moment of doubt, but I managed to focus myself in the boulder. Continuous, swing with my foot, cross over, fixate another hold and send it. Yes that felt good as a warm up.
In my second problem, I managed to bump my own hand off the hold in my first attempt. That was so uncontrolled! Then I figured a different method and I could easily remove my hand from the first start hold. The problem contained a really nice no hands rest, however I didn’t want to wait too long. I continued to the last few holds on this module and knew I could send this problem. 2 Seconds later I was hanging on the final hold yeah.
During my breaks I somehow needed sugar. I frequently ate sweets in between. I felt good. I trusted my body. With a long break in between, I could relaxed with my third problem.
The third problem started with a jump from this corner to 2 holds below a volume.
I’m not a pro in dyno-ing and I don’t like sideways dyno-ing.
In my 3rd attempt I managed to fix the holds, and the audience went crazy. I stayed focussed. First send the problem, then I’m able to rest.
Yes, I was hanging on the final hold and raised my hand to thank the audience for their support.
The final problem contained lots of purple slopey pinches. I don’t know what happened, but I didn’t follow the sequence and continued with my wrong hand to the next hold. I knew how to climb it, but conducted a different sequence in my first attempt. I took a short rest and wanted to climb relaxed. Okay, lets give this one another go. This time all movements went well, I climbed it hundred times over and over in my head. Lets go with the flow, pinch, swing around, fix the next hold, match and go for the final hold. There, it’s done and I’m feeling so good!
With 4 tops in the semis I was advanced to the finals. Hmm not bad. I didn’t expect this though, which satisfies me only more. Focusing and being direct when necessary works well for me. I tried this mental thing before during a teamtraining, focus well and prepare well really does work.
Anyway, the semis came to an end. The setters were going to prepare the finals while everyone was having some dinner.
Being a competitor, you got discount on your dinner. Awesome! There was Thai food available.
It looked like some wok-to-go. White rice poured with some chicken curry sauce and with a side dish raw salad with unknown sauce.
I spotted some waffles with Nutella. I didn’t order one because I wanted to save it for after my finals!
In the evening we could start warming up again. At 6 P.M. the isolation was closed. In the isolation area I received Chupa chups lollipops, which was good for my sugar level!
One hour later we had to go forward to the stage. We were presented to the audience in the spotlights. I was standing among 5 strong boulderers and I was the shortest! I’ll show the audience my best and how to roll yeah! After the presentation we turned around to see the problems. We had 4 minutes of time to figure out the sequences and returned to the isolation.
During the isolation I tried to climb the problem over and over in my head. One step ahead so at least I know how the sequence feels like.
The first move was quite tricky. I could barely reach the first start hold. This problem was challenging me! I had to stand on my toes and reach out with one arm to the starthold. Then I was able to match my other hand. Yeah I could reach it, barely. Okay, now I was going to climb the problem as if I’ve done it a million times before. No doubts, trusting my body and when I reached the big volume, I knew I could send it.
I could still switch my feet and finish the problem. Jumping to the final hold, wow it was better than I had expected.
The end went down pretty easy! I was totally in my element.
The second problem was tricky. I had difficulties to get from one volume to another. It was the crux though. I tried to climb this one over and over in my head but it didn’t work. It was all about feeling what’s right and wrong. Balance, using a toe hook was the solution.
In my third attempt it felt good. I could stick close to the module because I switched my feet and placed a toehook below the volume. I could slowly fall sideways into the next volume.
I heard the audience cheering so loud, wow! I felt the adrenaline through my vains. I wanted to finish this one. Thanks to yoga exercises I could place my right foot just below my right hand, and continue to the next hold.
In the background I heard speaker Joost going crazy along with the audience. Okay, I need to match and go for the final hold.
When I try to reach to the final hold, suddenly my hand slips off the hold!! In my fall I was screaming!
Such a pity! Someone please kick me. How could this happen to me? I should’ve send the problem….sigh.
I needed some time for myself in the isolation. The boulder problem was flashing through my head. I still couldn’t believe what just happened to me. I had much time to recover. Actually too much time, cooling down, because the setters were setting 2 new problems. After a short prep time, I didn’t know if I was able to climb this. One problem was quite long with a tricky start and the other was a dyno. New challenges for me!
I find the 3rd problem tricky. It has a dynamic start to a volume, which I could barely reach with my fingers. When I jump harder, I will get a bigger swing. I only managed once to hold the swing. Unfortunately no bonus for me. Pity!
In the isolation I was sitting next to Hans again. We both knew that Nicky had won the comp by sending 3 problems. He deserved that spot. We could still finish 2nd, who ever sends the last problem, would get that position. I knew it was going to be difficult…
The final problem was facing me. I was super focussed, I only thought about two pinches. Using 2 micro holds I have to jump hard and fly. I should’ve brought a cape with me. Then I would’ve send it in my first attempt.
After 4 tries I could pinch both holds. I had to campus for 1 meter, it was just too reachy. I’m trying to fight gravity, it feels weird. Aargh it’s everything or nothing!
I’m going for it, but I barely reach the bonus hold. Negative thoughts flashes through my mind. What a nice problem to end this day. Just a few ticks away and once again I’m giving this problem a go. I was flying to the pinches, and I was able to match. The next move was very delicate yet a powerful move.
I try to go for the bonus but I failed. It’s done. I felt like eating a waffle with Nutella, but they’re long gone…I wonder why they had disappeared, because they gave us their word to wait for us.
My coach came to me and told me it was a great performance. In my head I think I could’ve done better. Especially in the 2nd problem, I should’ve send it. Pity. I shouldn’t complain at all when I end up 4th in the Nationals. The rest of the results are here. It’s my best result ever on a NC boulder though!
I’d like to thank photographer Jorg Kemner! He shot all the action photos! My boulder skills are good enough thanks to all my training at Monk Bouldergym. I was the one who wanted to figure out if my boulder skills was advanced enough by attending this competition. I didn’t have any expectations and that works well for me. Just climb relaxt but focus when necessary! The competition was well organised. The setters delivered great problems which weren’t too morphy, thanks for that. Thank you everyone for your support, I couldn’t perform this well without you. It was an unforgettable day for me!
My cellphone is next to me when the alarm went off at half past 7 in the morning. 15 minutes later it snoozes again as I hear the same ringtone. It was time to get up. I have to climb as 22nd and I want to be on time at the competition wall.
I’m checking the schedule on the internet. Luckily there are no changes. As I pack my bag I double check my stuff twice. Climbing shoes, shirt, chalkbag, harness, camera, check check! I just need to fix myself some breakie. Around the corner there is a local supermarket, perfect to get some breakfast. Within 5 minutes I manage to get myself 2 bananas, 4 baguettes, la vache quirit and l’eau en bouteille (iow bottled water). It was just 4 bucks, cheap yeah!
Then I walk towards the wall. It’s about 5 minutes away from my hotel. I’m surrounded by shops and mountains. The Mont Blanc is really nice from my point of view! I’m staring at the glacier, which looks smaller every year, as I walk towards the wall.
The sun is shining bright on the main square. It’s not crowded yet. I see people preparing the event. The wall hasn’t changed a bit. On the left side of the wall, I notice the men’s route, “ men 1” sign is right there. I look at the route and it doesn’t look that difficult though.
It’s too warm to stand in the sun. I’m walking towards the warm up area. It’s about 2 minutes by foot. Indoors I see a lot of climbers warming up. Yoga mats, chairs, people, it’s so cozy here.
I’m looking for my own space. Next to Sean McColl and his French girlfriend there is a spot. I’m changing my clothes and explore this gym.
There is 1 tv, demonstrations of the route can be viewed on this telly over and over. Before I’m going to memorize everything, I’ll look at the route myself. The qualification route is in the roof and I try to understand it. I visualise the movements in my head and then look at the demo on tv. I notice a lot of tricks. I think this will be perfect for me!
I’m going to fix some breakfast and then warm up proper by traversing on the wall. I’m putting on some music with my ipod as I traverse on the wall. Nice tunes of Daft Punk is on my playlist. I feel great, I’m glad I have no injuries.
Later Elko shows up. He seems a bit sleepy as he observes every one climbing. He will climb later anyway. The first climbers will start very soon in the first route. They seem to have difficulties in the beginning. It looks like a long boulder. Awesome! I can do that. I’m having a Redbull shot and feel this adrenaline through my vains and body. Just a few climbers to go and then it will be my turn.
I’m entering the route area and get myself ready to climb. Elko is holding my cam and he’s about to record a video. I see the rope in the route from the previous climber disappear and I can’t wait to climb. All I can think of right now is to climb and fight the gravity. When I put my foot on the first foothold, I feel relaxed and in control. It’s not so hard, it feels like a 7a route, is this really happening to me? The route is only getting harder, but not much. There is a boulder movement but I manage to pass it. I’m slowly getting out of the roof and gravity isn’t a problem at all. I feel an unsecure movement coming forward and I won’t let go of the holds. Yeah I got the next hold! I should’ve clipped the quickdraw first though, it’s hard to clip from this position. I realise my foot is way too high. Climbing back isn’t an option, the holds are too bad. I can’t clip the quickdraw, I need to continue. I see the next hold and I might fix that one with my right hand! Unfortunately I can’t fix the next hold and fall out of the route. What a bummer!! I’ve been stumbling too long with this lame quickdraw! Sigh…I need some distraction and all I can think of is this stupid quickdraw. I figured the route was super cool, I want to climb it again! However, I’m not allowed to climb it again, I need to accept my moment and I’ll try to make up for it in my next route.
Elko’s first route starts outdoor. I have my camera ready to shoot some photos and support him while he’s going up. It looks nice. He’s managing the small holds well.
He looks a bit pumpy when he reaches the roof. In the roof he’s trying to re grab a hold and suddenly he falls out of the route! It went so well! He’s surprised about this movement.
I don’t know what to say when we’re walking back to the warm up area. Yet I ask him a few questions about the route and whether he’s pumpy. I think I should leave him alone.
It takes a while before I can start with my 2nd route. I’m number 65. A few hours later I’m going to warm up. It’s hard to warm up proper again for 1 route if you have to wait for a few hours. I’m a bit dreamy and time seems to tick slow. I’m about to traverse on the wall and conduct some dynamic boulder movements. As I’m done with that, I’m on my way to the competition wall and wait for my turn.
It’s pretty hot and I see people hiding under umbrella’s. I’m hiding under a table, because it’s nice and cool in the shade. Before it’s my turn, I’m trying to understand the route.
Later on it’s my turn and prepare myself on stage. I handed my cam to Elko but there is no sign of Elko when it’s my turn to climb. Oh well, no movie for me. I shouldn’t worry about that. I should climb and move my way up! The route is not so difficult and I try to climb fast. There are some tricky moves however I manage to conduct all the movements. I’m not going to fall here, I want to send this route! In the roof I see an extended quickdraw. I can clip it but I decide to clip when I’m passing the roof. As I’m hanging in the roof, I’m unable to clip this quickdraw. When I’m using my left hand, the quickdraw won’t make it to my rope, when I’m using my right hand, the quickdraw won’t cooperate with me. I’m stumbling for at least 30 seconds while I’m hanging in the roof. Eventually I manage to clip the quickdraw. I continue and I know exactly what to do in this roof. Put my right foot on the front hold and left foot behind at the back hold, cross over to a hold with my right hand. My under arms feels pumpy and it hurts, but I won’t let go. It’s just a boulder movement, I can do this. Next I want to match this hold with my right hand below my other arm. Unfortunately I couldn’t make this movement and fall out of the route. I look at the main square and see lots of people. They are clapping in their hands for me. I don’t feel like I should be proud at this. I’m feeling terrible and I should have managed these movements in the roof. It’s done. Finished. My arms feels pumpy and I can barely untie my rope. I feel so thirsty and I have this feeling that I climbed a bit. It’s done though, with this score I will never make it to the semis. Sigh. Stupid quickdraws …(&*^$#^&*!! At this moment I could shoot myself.
Elko is waiting indoors for his turn. He’s last in this route. His climbing conditions are so different than mine, the gym is hot and the holds are really dirty. I’m giving him some advise about the quickdraws, because I don’t want the judge to disqualify him when he’s skipping a quickdraw. His climbing looks nice.
At the same part of the route where I fell out of the route, he manages to clip the quickdraw. And then there is this insecure move to the next hold. He almost managed to grab the next hold, just too low! He can’t reach it and falls out of the route. He’s standing on floor, feeling fit. Such a pity….
We take our time to change our clothes. If it was up to us, we’d catch a plane right away to The Netherlands. What am I doing here? I failed and I know I can climb better than this. I should accept it and just let it go.
Later the speed climbing starts. It’s all about time here. A wall of 15 meters high and one can win this competition when he sends the route first. It’s very amusing.
Then we got informed about the semis. It will be shifted to the morning due to the bad weather conditions. The organisation might cancel the finals, all we can do is wait for now!
Back in the hotel, I was curious about my results of this competition. Elko ended on the 56th place. I managed to grab a few more holds and in the ranking it’s quite a big difference. I ended up 44th from all 83 competitors. I should’ve stayed home. It’s a stupid ranking.
I could regret about my ranking but I rather make myself happy by sightseeing downtown and score some souvenirs. The weather is really nice and I can still enjoy my day. Ice cream, chocolate pancakes, ooh I like this!
The next day the semis starts in the morning and yet we can enjoy the finals in the evening! Luckily we only feel a few rain drops.
The main square is over crowded when the finals are about to start and they’re supporting the climbers.
Photographers are trying to find the best spots to shoot nice photos of the finalists.
The women’s finals seems too easy and 4 ladies manage to send the route.
The men’s finals looks really cool. I enjoy seeing the best climbers working their way up in this route. Jakob Schubert manages to send every route and wins this competition! What a hero.
This day ends with nice fireworks because it’s July 14th which is a French national holiday.
In the morning we’re returning back to The Netherlands. I only have to fly 2 hours, however our flights got delayed due to the bad weather in The Netherlands.
At 19.15 I arrive and walk through the gates of Schiphol. Despite the bad rainy weather, I’m happy to be back here!
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