Posts Tagged ‘Chamonix’
At this moment the Lead Worldcup Season is being kicked off at Chamonix!
Two Dutch teammembers are competing in this Worldcup: Elko & Nikki. According the program of this event, they will climb their qualifications very soon.
Thursday 12th July
Men & women lead qualification
09:30 – 16:00 men’s qualification (route 1 & route 2)
10:00 – 14:00 women’s qualification (route 1 & route 2)
Men & women speed qualification
17:00 women’s qualification
18:00 men’s qualification
Men & women speed finals
20:45 grouping men & women in the warming zone
21:00 speed final round
Friday 13th July
Men & women lead semi-finals
13:30 observation period men & women
14:00 start of semi-finals men & women
Men & women lead finals
21:00 start of men and women finals
22:45 awarding ceremony
Follow the live cam by clicking on the photo.
Good luck from The Netherlands.
My cellphone is next to me when the alarm went off at half past 7 in the morning. 15 minutes later it snoozes again as I hear the same ringtone. It was time to get up. I have to climb as 22nd and I want to be on time at the competition wall.
I’m checking the schedule on the internet. Luckily there are no changes. As I pack my bag I double check my stuff twice. Climbing shoes, shirt, chalkbag, harness, camera, check check! I just need to fix myself some breakie. Around the corner there is a local supermarket, perfect to get some breakfast. Within 5 minutes I manage to get myself 2 bananas, 4 baguettes, la vache quirit and l’eau en bouteille (iow bottled water). It was just 4 bucks, cheap yeah!
Then I walk towards the wall. It’s about 5 minutes away from my hotel. I’m surrounded by shops and mountains. The Mont Blanc is really nice from my point of view! I’m staring at the glacier, which looks smaller every year, as I walk towards the wall.
The sun is shining bright on the main square. It’s not crowded yet. I see people preparing the event. The wall hasn’t changed a bit. On the left side of the wall, I notice the men’s route, “ men 1” sign is right there. I look at the route and it doesn’t look that difficult though.
It’s too warm to stand in the sun. I’m walking towards the warm up area. It’s about 2 minutes by foot. Indoors I see a lot of climbers warming up. Yoga mats, chairs, people, it’s so cozy here.
I’m looking for my own space. Next to Sean McColl and his French girlfriend there is a spot. I’m changing my clothes and explore this gym.
There is 1 tv, demonstrations of the route can be viewed on this telly over and over. Before I’m going to memorize everything, I’ll look at the route myself. The qualification route is in the roof and I try to understand it. I visualise the movements in my head and then look at the demo on tv. I notice a lot of tricks. I think this will be perfect for me!
I’m going to fix some breakfast and then warm up proper by traversing on the wall. I’m putting on some music with my ipod as I traverse on the wall. Nice tunes of Daft Punk is on my playlist. I feel great, I’m glad I have no injuries.
Later Elko shows up. He seems a bit sleepy as he observes every one climbing. He will climb later anyway. The first climbers will start very soon in the first route. They seem to have difficulties in the beginning. It looks like a long boulder. Awesome! I can do that. I’m having a Redbull shot and feel this adrenaline through my vains and body. Just a few climbers to go and then it will be my turn.
I’m entering the route area and get myself ready to climb. Elko is holding my cam and he’s about to record a video. I see the rope in the route from the previous climber disappear and I can’t wait to climb. All I can think of right now is to climb and fight the gravity. When I put my foot on the first foothold, I feel relaxed and in control. It’s not so hard, it feels like a 7a route, is this really happening to me? The route is only getting harder, but not much. There is a boulder movement but I manage to pass it. I’m slowly getting out of the roof and gravity isn’t a problem at all. I feel an unsecure movement coming forward and I won’t let go of the holds. Yeah I got the next hold! I should’ve clipped the quickdraw first though, it’s hard to clip from this position. I realise my foot is way too high. Climbing back isn’t an option, the holds are too bad. I can’t clip the quickdraw, I need to continue. I see the next hold and I might fix that one with my right hand! Unfortunately I can’t fix the next hold and fall out of the route. What a bummer!! I’ve been stumbling too long with this lame quickdraw! Sigh…I need some distraction and all I can think of is this stupid quickdraw. I figured the route was super cool, I want to climb it again! However, I’m not allowed to climb it again, I need to accept my moment and I’ll try to make up for it in my next route.
Elko’s first route starts outdoor. I have my camera ready to shoot some photos and support him while he’s going up. It looks nice. He’s managing the small holds well.
He looks a bit pumpy when he reaches the roof. In the roof he’s trying to re grab a hold and suddenly he falls out of the route! It went so well! He’s surprised about this movement.
I don’t know what to say when we’re walking back to the warm up area. Yet I ask him a few questions about the route and whether he’s pumpy. I think I should leave him alone.
It takes a while before I can start with my 2nd route. I’m number 65. A few hours later I’m going to warm up. It’s hard to warm up proper again for 1 route if you have to wait for a few hours. I’m a bit dreamy and time seems to tick slow. I’m about to traverse on the wall and conduct some dynamic boulder movements. As I’m done with that, I’m on my way to the competition wall and wait for my turn.
It’s pretty hot and I see people hiding under umbrella’s. I’m hiding under a table, because it’s nice and cool in the shade. Before it’s my turn, I’m trying to understand the route.
Later on it’s my turn and prepare myself on stage. I handed my cam to Elko but there is no sign of Elko when it’s my turn to climb. Oh well, no movie for me. I shouldn’t worry about that. I should climb and move my way up! The route is not so difficult and I try to climb fast. There are some tricky moves however I manage to conduct all the movements. I’m not going to fall here, I want to send this route! In the roof I see an extended quickdraw. I can clip it but I decide to clip when I’m passing the roof. As I’m hanging in the roof, I’m unable to clip this quickdraw. When I’m using my left hand, the quickdraw won’t make it to my rope, when I’m using my right hand, the quickdraw won’t cooperate with me. I’m stumbling for at least 30 seconds while I’m hanging in the roof. Eventually I manage to clip the quickdraw. I continue and I know exactly what to do in this roof. Put my right foot on the front hold and left foot behind at the back hold, cross over to a hold with my right hand. My under arms feels pumpy and it hurts, but I won’t let go. It’s just a boulder movement, I can do this. Next I want to match this hold with my right hand below my other arm. Unfortunately I couldn’t make this movement and fall out of the route. I look at the main square and see lots of people. They are clapping in their hands for me. I don’t feel like I should be proud at this. I’m feeling terrible and I should have managed these movements in the roof. It’s done. Finished. My arms feels pumpy and I can barely untie my rope. I feel so thirsty and I have this feeling that I climbed a bit. It’s done though, with this score I will never make it to the semis. Sigh. Stupid quickdraws …(&*^$#^&*!! At this moment I could shoot myself.
Elko is waiting indoors for his turn. He’s last in this route. His climbing conditions are so different than mine, the gym is hot and the holds are really dirty. I’m giving him some advise about the quickdraws, because I don’t want the judge to disqualify him when he’s skipping a quickdraw. His climbing looks nice.
At the same part of the route where I fell out of the route, he manages to clip the quickdraw. And then there is this insecure move to the next hold. He almost managed to grab the next hold, just too low! He can’t reach it and falls out of the route. He’s standing on floor, feeling fit. Such a pity….
We take our time to change our clothes. If it was up to us, we’d catch a plane right away to The Netherlands. What am I doing here? I failed and I know I can climb better than this. I should accept it and just let it go.
Later the speed climbing starts. It’s all about time here. A wall of 15 meters high and one can win this competition when he sends the route first. It’s very amusing.
Then we got informed about the semis. It will be shifted to the morning due to the bad weather conditions. The organisation might cancel the finals, all we can do is wait for now!
Back in the hotel, I was curious about my results of this competition. Elko ended on the 56th place. I managed to grab a few more holds and in the ranking it’s quite a big difference. I ended up 44th from all 83 competitors. I should’ve stayed home. It’s a stupid ranking.
I could regret about my ranking but I rather make myself happy by sightseeing downtown and score some souvenirs. The weather is really nice and I can still enjoy my day. Ice cream, chocolate pancakes, ooh I like this!
The next day the semis starts in the morning and yet we can enjoy the finals in the evening! Luckily we only feel a few rain drops.
The main square is over crowded when the finals are about to start and they’re supporting the climbers.
Photographers are trying to find the best spots to shoot nice photos of the finalists.
The women’s finals seems too easy and 4 ladies manage to send the route.
The men’s finals looks really cool. I enjoy seeing the best climbers working their way up in this route. Jakob Schubert manages to send every route and wins this competition! What a hero.
This day ends with nice fireworks because it’s July 14th which is a French national holiday.
In the morning we’re returning back to The Netherlands. I only have to fly 2 hours, however our flights got delayed due to the bad weather in The Netherlands.
At 19.15 I arrive and walk through the gates of Schiphol. Despite the bad rainy weather, I’m happy to be back here!
Today I travelled a lot. From Utrecht to Amsterdam to Paris to Geneve to Chamonix!
The dislikes about this trip:
Waiting at the airport, the search and touch me everywhere at Paris when I went through a metal detector, delayed Chamonix-van travellers and therefore we got delayed as well, Burger King lunch at 17.15h, dinner at an Italian restaurant + bad service, hotel window view (I need a chair to check out the view).
The likes about this trip:
Sunny weather, little turbulence during my flights, barely no delay until we arrived at Geneve Airport, chocolate chip cookies in the airplane, free wi-fi at airports on my phone to update my status, spinach in my pasta which makes me win, hotel which is downtown, hotel window view, and the ice cream at Chamonix!
Luckily we ran into Heiko Wilhelm (Austrian coach) who informed us about the technical meeting and our start numbers. Thanks for that! I need to share that info with you. Tomorrow our qualification will start from 09.30h until 16.00 PM. My startnumber in Q1 will be 65th and Q2 will be 22nd. Elko, Q1 – 43rd and Q2 – 83rd (last). For your information: The first route is outdoors and the second route is indoors!
Anyway, I’m going to rest now. Wish me luck & goodnight!
Hi internet friends. Check my countdown for the worldcup Lead at Chamonix!
Just another day to go, I’m so psyched!! Weekend mode off – competition mode on! Team member Elko Schellingerhout and I will fly on Monday July 11th to Geneve and then travel to Chamonix. The kickoff for the Lead season will take place in this nice venue.
Startlist of the competition can be found here.
I will pick up my startnumber during the technical meeting on Monday. Tuesday I’ll be climbing the qualification between 09.:30 and 4 P.M.
Want to see Elko and me climbing? Check out the webcam for live streaming. I’ll keep you guys up to date!
After the qualifications I went to explore Chamonix by myself. I had enough of this competition so I needed some distraction and sightseeing.
In the evening we had dinner in our apartment. Sous-chef Wally was in the kitchen, wrapped himself with a huge towel. I don’t know what he was up to but eventually the result has been captured on photo.
I was starving. All I ate for today was an apple and drank lots of water in the afternoon. It was a good meal, thanks Wally.
After dinner we didn’t do anything out the ordinary. It was raining outdoors. From within our hotel room we could hear the competition speaker. Meanwhile everyone was busy catching up on the internet.
I guess I digested my food well and slept good that night.
The next morning we slept late. Today it was the day of the semis and the finals. I was taking it easy until the semis because I didn’t fully recover yet. On the other hand, Wally is showing that he can do some pull ups on anything in the apartment. The view of the hotel is great. Nearly every 15 minutes you can see a paraglider landing on the grass.
After some news reading on our computers, Wally decided to leave us. He is going to the isolation area to check up on Jorg. Jorg is the only dutch guy who made it to the semis by climbing both qualification routes.
In the afternoon we went to see the semis. It was kinda hot, about 32 degrees with some cool wind.
During the semis Jorg managed to advance to the finals. He made it to the top 8, super! We got so bored between the semis and the finals. I enjoyed my time on a slackline. That didn’t went well because I didn’t feel good just yet.
Right after that we went out for dinner downtown in Chamonix and returned back at our hotel to freshen up. The finals is about to start! Just 15 minutes to go and we are on our way to the venue. At 20.30h we were sitting in front of the competition wall. It was major crowded.
The coaches have their own VIP area and Nikki and I were sitting close to it. So close that a fence got in my way for my camera and I had to climb over the fence to support Jorg even more. Luckily I manage to record his actions and also from Jakob, Adam and Patxi but their footages will follow later. First they introduced the female finalists followed by the male finalists.
8pt; “>Jorg on podium
The men’s finals was great to witness whereas the women’s finals was less interesting because the route was too easy. Jorg manage to end up third! That’s really awesome.
The Worldcup ended with a nice show.
Jorg treated me a coke and coach Wally bought us a delicious crêpe, thanks for that.
I’d like to be here again next year, because Chamonix has a really nice environment. Hopefully I’ll feel well and climb in healthy conditions! For now I’ll recover from my stomache…Chamonix a bientôt.
I heard Wally’s alarm going off at 6.30 AM in the morning. I tried to sleep some more.
After 20 minutes, I felt better. Today I have to climb at my best. Considering my situation I don’t know if I’m able to pull this off. My breakfast for today is muesli with yogurt and I drank lots of water from the tap.
Wally mentions that Elko’s bag has arrived. It is already at the hotel, just in time! Wally and Elko are leaving to the venue because Elko has to climb early. I’m leaving with Nikki half an hour later.
The isolation area is huge. Again I see lots of familiar international climbers, but I try to focus on myself. Wouter and Elko are present as well and somewhat later Jorg is in the isolation area too. Furthermore there is a television with all demonstrations of the qualification routes. This time I don’t have any pictures of the isolation, because I gave up my camera to coach Wally. I’m trying to eat another banana and a muesli bar. Then it’s time for me to warm up on the wall.
When I sit down, I feel my food getting up to my throat. This is a bad sign! A few minutes later I threw up, what a bad feeling. Oh well, I hope this was the worst part.
At 9.30h I’m walking towards the competition wall to support Elko. Wally is ready to record his attempt. It feels very hot so I’m trying to stay out of the sun.
After Elko’s attempt, I’m returning to the isolation area. I just try to stay calm to save up my energy. Nikki is also climbing her first qualification route, which is inside the isolation area.
I’m heading to the competition wall to look into the route and holds. At the same moment I see other climbers doing the movements, which is nice to remember. I still have half an hour and return back to the isolation. In the isolation I’m trying to stretch my muscles. I take another asperine for my headache. I’m not feeling well at all. I trained half a year towards this competition and now I’m sick. I try not to think of it.
It is my turn to climb my first route. Behind the wall, I receive a backnumber. I put my harness and my climbing shoes on. It’s nearly my moment, I shut my eyes and think back to all the training moments I’ve had this year. Then I climb the route once again in my head.
Okay, I can go on stage and look carefully at each hold. I focus purely on the holds once I place my foot. I want to climb fast however at the same time I want to control every single movement. It is going well, until I go to this strange hold. My position is bad and I lose my balance, no way this is going to happen to me right now! I should’ve put my right foot against the wall, I should’ve known this. I’m out, that’s a fact. When I’m on the ground, I’m not even pumped in my arms. I hate this moment.
Between my first and second qualification route, I try to remain calm. Yet I need to eat something and force myself to eat a cookie and drink lots of water. I need to eat, because I feel so empty. My headache is nearly gone. I’m sitting on a mat among other competitors. I’m staring in front of me and think of the route and try to make all the movements in my head. I spot Wally in the crowd, he was there to pick me up. Soon it is my turn for my second qualification. I totally forgot about the time. Wally is asking me if I’m alright but when I walk to the competition wall, I feel like throwing up again. I feel okay again after another session in the restroom. What a bad feeling, everything I try to eat simply comes back out of my mouth.
I’m walking to the competition wall with Wally and feel a bit better. Just before I’m about to start, Wally asks me if I feel tense. I don’t feel anything. Actually just little tense, my emotions is totally controlled by my organs. Just a few more minutes and I have to start. I’m sitting behind the wall and feel the heat rising to my head. I feel so empty, not strange though cause I just threw up. I’m trying to prepare myself mentally. Then it is my turn.
I walk on stage and look at the holds again. It is my moment, I have to go for it. Now or never. I’m trying to clip multiple quickdraws at the same position. I need to climb most efficient, because I can’t request more from my body. Just 5 meters above the ground, my body feels to give up on me yet I try to fight. I have to conduct all the movements just once. I need to place my feet well and crimp on to the holds and everything will be fine. I just have to hang on for a few minutes. In the background I hear the speaker calling my name and making jokes about it. I notice it very well but I’m putting all my energy in this route. It is just too much for my body. I’m empty. I fall out of the route and I’m back on the floor again. My legs feel weak, everything in my body feels weak and I walk away to drop my harness.
My first Worldcup went too fast. I haven’t been so sick in years. What did I do wrong? Why me? I just accept it, I can’t help it anymore. I know I can get more out of myself! Bummer, next time better.
Unfortunately I can’t upload more videos because I’ve reached my limit for today. The rest of the movies will follow soon (Nikki, Elko and 1 from Adam Ondra).