Posts Tagged ‘Berdorf’

The past few weekends I have been visiting Berdorf, which is my favourite forest. I always enjoy nature, especially when it comes down to climbing on sandstone.

I remember the first time I set foot in Berdorf with some climbing friends from Nijmegen. In April 2007 I climbed my first 7c Scramasax in sector Isatis and I was aiming for more beautiful gems.

Sector Takla Makan

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Since my first visit I came back to this area many times to repeat the same fun routes. 7 years later my focus changed. Instead of climbing just the popular and the hardest routes in this area, my wish is to climb all the routes within my reach.

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According to the 2nd edition of the topoguide Berdorf counts 16 sectors and a special chapter with combinations of lines. Last weekend I managed to finish 2 sectors by climbing the easy routes. So far I finished the sectors Gentiane, Bleausard, Scheffelchen and Takla Makan. Some of the sectors are nearly finished because I only have to climb 1 more route and some of the sectors are unclimbed and still new to me.

Sitta, Saka, Contact

The total sum of routes which are ticked off in my topoguide comes down to 90. My most recent sends can be found here. I鈥檓 proud of this number and I can鈥檛 wait to climb more outdoor routes in this beautiful forest!

A few weeks ago I went to Berdorf with some friends.

I haven’t been there for a while and it was good to be back at the sandstone rocks. We arrived on Friday evening at campsite Martbusch, set up the tents and tried to get some sleep.

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Usually I can sleep well in a tent, however this time there were some loud Germans who kept everyone awake until 4 AM. Fortunately I brought my earplugs with me and I could reduce the noise 馃檪 To those who tried to get some sleep that night, I feel sorry for you.

The weather was actually quite cold in the shadow. I brought my hammock with me and set it up between 2 trees. I was tagging along with some friends and didn’t have a belay buddy. Anyway, for me it was a relaxing day and met some other friends as well.

That day I warmed up in Heinz (6C) and continued to set quickdraws in Daiwel (7B+). Right after that route I climbed Gincobiloba (7B) which I think is much easier than Daiwel. Last try of the day was Cima Ovest. This route contained a dyno which was really nice. I saved this route for the next day.

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At the campsite I was offered a huge hamburger from some friends. Later we went to this pizza restaurant and spent some time there in the evening. When we went to sleep, again this night our German youngsters stayed up all night. There was a discussion on the campsite and other climbers tried to ask them friendly to keep it down. No sleep until 4 AM, unless you had earplugs.

Sunday morning I saw sensed small eyes from my friends who barely slept this weekend. I wanted to climb some more routes on Sunday. I started to warm up with Voleur de Spits (7A+).

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Here my friend Alvin is climbing the same route (Voleur de Spits).

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Then I wanted to set the quickdraws for Cima Ovest. However I managed to climb Cima Ovest (7C+) in the same time. Jumping with quickdraws is possible. That was really cool.

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In the afternoon I climbed the route of Hasta La Vista Gringo (8B) however I didn’t managed to pass the crux. Now I know it’s impossible for small people like me, I just wanted to try it for myself. Such a pity of this line. Tall climbers should definitely try this route, it’s a must!

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I finished my day with a send of Infernale (7B) which I think is fairly easy for the grade. Here’s photo of my friend Chris, tried to encourage him through the route!

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Overall, I had a great weekend (besides the noise at night) with friends in the forest. I bought myself a topoguide. My goal is to climb all the routes Berdorf has to offer, sounds like fun doesn’t it?

Anyway, thanks Den Tserkovnyi for shooting the photos and see you around in Berdorf 馃檪

Goodmorning you guys!

Here is a video of Borderline. It was recorded yesterday in Berdorf Luxembourg, where the weather conditions seemed to be perfect to climb on the rocks. It was my last climb of the day and I was about to clean this route anyway and collect my quickdraws. Obviously that was the right mindset to climb this route.

I have doubts about the grade. Some say it’s 8b, whereas others mark it as 8a+. Anyway, I think it’s just a nice traverse from right to left with amazingly good footholds. I enjoyed the sequence, nature, company and the silence in this area. Thank you all for being around!

By the way: I cleaned the route, it took me 20 minutes and brushed away all the chalk. Good luck.

Video: Borderline, Luxembourg

Dear forest rangers,

I received my permit 2 weeks ago by mail. Thank you 馃榾 !!

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DSC04181sA few years ago I was sent away from Berdorf Luxembourg. I didn’t have a climbing permit.

I have been avoiding Berdorf for a while (since 2011). And just a weekend ago, I was invited to tag along to Berdorf again.
To me it was a last minute decision. We left on Friday evening June 12th and planned this trip until Sunday evening.

Fraser (UK), Chris (USA), Valentina (RUS) and me (NL :P) went by car and enjoyed the beautiful forest. Saturday we climbed lots of routes. I believe I managed to climb at least 10 times, from 6a to 8b. I just wanted to climb, enjoy the routes, nature and the crazy international company.

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Sunday we wanted to start a bit earlier. Our goal was to be at the rocks at 10 AM.

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I didn’t have a permit though, but I had this hunch that I will meet these forest rangers again.

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And just when I was about to climb this nice route in the shadow, these forest rangers holding a tablet in their hands showed up out of no where. Of course, permit check! I got busted again…

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We had to quit climbing. But no worries. I will be back. Later.

After I’ve returned from Fontaine Bleau, all I wanted was to climb more on sandstone. My next weekend was already planned with another climbing trip.

A few days ago I contacted J茅r么me again to make plans about Berdorf. It was my initiative to enjoy outdoors again in the forest. The advantage of Berdorf compared to Bleau is that the distance is somewhat shorter from Eindhoven. It’s about 3 hours of driving. Berdorf is a small village in Luxembourg and you can enjoy the sandstone structure in routes.

Friday afternoon we left Eindhoven. We expected to arrive about 3 in the P.M. in Luxembourg however we got stuck in traffic jam which took us another hour to get to Luxembourg.


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Oh well, what’s an hour in a lifetime right? When we were halfway, we saw lots of nice landscapes. More hills, more green and yesss more rocks!

When we arrived in Berdorf, we grabbed our stuff and were eager to climb some rocks.

After a few warm up routes, I wanted to climb Bobby Brown. I heard many stories about this route. It was my opportunity to climb it. The quickdraws were already set which was really cool. I heard some information about the route before and witnessed a climber in it. I paid attention to the holds and received valuable information from J茅r么me. The result was a 10 minute fight in the wall without letting go any holds! Yes, I managed to flash Bobby Brown. One of the nicest lines of Berdorf!

J茅r么me started to try Hermann Buhl and I decided to join him. After a work out session, I must say that it’s pretty hard. There are 2 dynos for me. I find it difficult to climb on this wall. I have to climb very open which isn’t my style at all and there aren’t many footholds.

However when you’ve visited Fontaine Bleau, your confidence level will increase at least with 76% and you believe you can place your feet on the smallest footholds without zipping away. Meanwhile it got darker and we decided to call it a day.

The second day I woke up at 9 A.M. without alarm. A nice time to start right? We fixed a quick breakfast in the morning and arrived at 10 A.M. at the rocks to warmup.

After 3 routes we were planning to send Hermann Buhl. Just before us a Dutch guy Maarten sent the route. Now I was extra motivated to send the route as well!

Maarten was nice enough to switch the quickdraws. Thanks for that! After our first attempt (both on video) I felt a few raindrops! Oh nooooo, not now, I had the sequence printed in my head and had to climb this route today! J茅r么me felt the pressure too. We had a lot of pressure and without much rest we were climbing too fast. J茅r么me managed to climb the crux but just missed the dyno after the crux! My biceps felt sore and I needed a rest. I ate some baguette with cheese and cucumber and felt better again.

Time to give another go! When I arrived at the crux, I went all out and locked my arm in the left pocket. Surprisingly I managed to reach the crimp below the little roof! Yes, this means I can send it. I need to focus on the dyno! I rested a bit and went to the next hold. Baaam! A short powerful yell came out of me and I bet everyone heard me fighting!

Yes, my righthand was accurate enough to fix the sloper. After a few minutes I could clip the chain. I sent Hermann Buhl to heaven and it made me felt so good.

Video: Berdorf – Preview Hermann Buhl

The routes I climbed this trip at Berdorf:
Luftikus 6b
Kaffisdous 7a+
Willy 6c
Heinz 6c
Voleur de spits 7a+
Bobby Brown 7c flash
Schotte Bob 6b+
Hermann Buhl 8a+

This was the end of my day. Later in the afternoon it started to rain. Talking about lucky eh? I have yet another competition to go on Sunday. I feel drained though. Hopefully I can recover for this competition. My motivation for routes has increased. Despite my energy level I feel like climbing this competition!

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