Posts Tagged ‘Austria’

It’s been 2 weeks ago since the European Championship Sportsclimbing and bouldering was held at Austria.

I spotted 2 videos online which I want to share with you. It’s a short summary of the EC at Imst and Innsbrück. Enjoy.

EC Lead at Imst

EC Boulder at Innsbrück

Friday was the semis and the finals of the European Championship Lead climbing and it was nearly 10 minutes away from my hotel.

I believe I got up at half past 9 to fix myself some breakfast. Third day in a row I ate the same breakfast. I ate 2 simple buns with 2 slices of ham. And I ate some chocolate muesli with milk.

Every day the hostess asked us if we’d like to have some tea, coffee or hot chocolate. I picked tea. Nikki picked tea as well. You should know how ridiculously fast she drinks her tea. While I’m still drinking my first cup, she already managed to finish a full teapot.

Okay enough about breakfast. After our breakfast we went to the competition venue to support Jorg Verhoeven. The weather conditions kinda sucked, it rained a lot. We went by car to the competition to stay dry.

Once we arrived, there were lots of clouds above the wall.

Fortunately they set up tents in case it would rain. I didn’t feel like getting wet so I was hiding in this tent to stay dry.

Somewhat later the boulder team arrived. It was a matter of waiting until it was Jorg’s turn. Lets hope he will make it to the finals.

Meanwhile it was dry and it was nearly Jorg’s turn to climb.

I ran down through the grass. I almost slipped but eventually I manage to keep my balance. I got my digital cam ready to record Jorg in the semis. I witnessed him walking to the route and the route didn’t go that well.

Jorg Verhoeven in the semis, EC Imst

Unfortunately Jorg didn’t manage to advance to the finals. Yet I believe he’d put a nice performance out there. We went to have lunch with the team at the bar. 3 pizza’s, 2 toasted sandwiches and 2 cakes was enough for us. Then we split up, the boulder team went back to Innsbrück except Michiel. After I dropped Elko and Nikki at our hotel, Michiel, Tim and I went to visit Hoch Imst.

We went to rodel in this Alpine Coaster. It is the longest Alpen coaster in the world, it’s 3,5 km long on rustfree steel rails. To get there we had to go by this elevator which took another 10 minutes.

The view was amazing.

After 10 minutes I was finally there. I had never done this before and thought it wouldn’t go that fast. Well, if you don’t use the brakes it is going fast. A nice tactic to go faster is to lean when the rails bend.

Rodelbahn Hoch Imst

I was so psyched after such a ride. It was about time to explore Imst. It’s not big and actually there was nothing to do downtown. So much for exploring…

In the evening we went to the competition wall to watch the finals. The men’s finals was not that exciting. The first half of the route was all about locking, matching, put your foot high and so on. The route was set straight up, kinda a pity when you have such a big wall. The routesetters should’ve set the first part easier and then set holds in the roof for about 20 or 30 meters with a vertical ending.

The women’s finals was more exciting than the men’s. They had to climb dynamic in order to reach the holds. It was nice to see how the ladies climb dynamic. Some ladies were climbing so slow. When they ran out of time it was nice to see how they climb the last few seconds in such a difficult route.

The winners of the European Championship Lead climbing:

1. Ramon Julian Puigblanque ESP (47-) 2. Adam Ondra CZE (45+) 3. Jakob Schubert AUT (45-)

1. Angela Eiter AUT (57-) 2. Johanna Ernst AUT (49-) 3. Alizée Dufraisse FRA (46-)

Thursday morning we went to Innsbrück to support our boulder team.

I parked our rental car downtown and paid 3 euro to park 1,5 hours and we walked to the competition venue. We were a bit late however none of our team members have started so far.

A huge party tent covered the audience from getting wet.

Obviously we were provided with a digital camera to record our team members.

The men will start first and Wally is the first Dutch guy who’s going to climb. He just flashed the first boulder!

Spokesperson, Joost Hofman is present to shoot some awesome photos.

Not much later, we encourage Casper ten Sijthoff in the first boulder.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen, Nicky de Leeuw and Ferdinand Schulte are also climbing very well.

Meanwhile Wally and Capsle were finished bouldering. They put up a nice performance and we’ll see them again in the semis on Saturday!

After the qualifications I decided to climb routes at Tivoli with Tim, Elko and Nikki. Nicky was so kind to borrow his rope and show us how to get there in Innsbrück.

The climbing gym at Innsbrück is awesome. There are lots of nice but also difficult routes. I had a nice training! In the evening we went back to the center for a team dinner.

The golden roof! I wasn’t the only one holding a camera in my hand. As you can see, we have a nice group photo, unfortunately not everyone is on it though…

Today I woke up at 8 in the A.M. I believe I slept like 10 hours! Usually I sleep about 6 or 7 hours a day, anyway I feel well rested.

I ate some breakfast in the hotel before I go to the competition wall. Tim and Elko are getting ready and we’re leaving our hotel. It’s about 10 minutes by foot to get to the venue.

Wally and Vera are present at the competition wall. Nikki needs to climb early and we all encourage her. It’s going very well and she controls every single move. When she matches her right hand with her left hand, both her hands slips off the hold. Such a pity, it went so well.

My start number is 25. I have about an hour and a half to warm up. I look at my 1st qualification route and observe other climbers. The route looks kinda straight forward with a few footholds. I’m warming up indoors at the boulder area.

Again I’m observing the first qualification inside which is projected at this huge screen. I’m ready to climb.

The 1st qualification starts with a small jump. I can only think about the route and isolate everything around me. The holds feel good and I know exactly when to clip the quickdraws. During my climb I need to control every movement. I can’t be indecisive.

I’m not even half way when I match my left hand on a sloper hold. Suddenly my right hand slips off the hold. It is over and I’m standing on the floor. Once again I’m not even pumped and I’m fed up with it.

I’m preparing myself for the 2nd qualification. I only think about the good moments during my 1st qualification. I still have about an hour until it’s my turn. The 2nd route is more technical than the first route, the routesetters set more balance movements in the route. During my preparation I observe other climbers. I pay attention to their movements and when they clip the quickdraws.

I feel like climbing this route. The first 5 movements are easy. I climb from hold to hold and it feels like single boulder movements. It is going okay and I decide not to rest too much. The first part is vertical and the higher you’ll get, the more overhang you climb.

This route isn’t that difficult. Half way in this route I’m going to a small hold. With my fingertops I feel a small edge however that’s not enough. My body isn’t close at the wall and I fall out of the route. Too bad, I know this isn’t good enough to advance to the finals. I end up low in the ranking, 48th place.

Tim ends up 40 and Elko ends on place 45. Nikki ends up 34th in the women’s category.

Jorg was present as well. His first qualification went okay, he nearly climbed the whole route.

The 2nd qualification went better, he climbed the whole route. Jorg is on a 7th place and he’ll return on Friday to climb the semis.

I’m disappointed about my results. On the other hand I know I can give so much more. My plan for this week is to climb with Tim, Elko and Nikki at Innsbrück. Hopefully we’ll do better next week at Puurs.

Oh yes, today it was Nikki’s birthday. She turned 18 years old! Happy birthday Nikki.

Nikki’s birthday present

In the evening we’re obliged to visit the opening ceremony at the competition wall.

On our way to the competition wall with the Dutch flag!

Ceremony on stage

The ceremony ends up with a weird act.

Man with a cape

It was a nice experience. Tomorrow our boulder team will climb at Innsbrück and we’re there to support them!

I arrived safely at Munich. The weather conditions are good compared to The Netherlands. It’s dry and that is a good sign for this week!

We are going to pick up our suitcases. Not much later we receive all our Berghaus suitcases. We need to rent 2 cars and we’re ready to go.

At the parking lot we figured that the cars are too small. The sum of our suitcases doesn’t fit in the car!

We’re going back to the rental car department for a solution. Meanwhile another hour passed by.

Finally we receive 2 bigger cars. This time all our luggage fits in the car. Our team is going to Imst and we’ll see the boulder team later at Innsbrück. I’m going to drive this huge car while Nikki is setting the navigation. It takes 2,5 hours to drive to our destination in Imst.

Thanks to our navigation we could easily locate the hotel. In the evening we went to a nice Italian restaurant to order pasta.

Magic by Tim

Wally is sharing our startnumbers and keeps us up to date by phone. Unfortunately I don’t have internet connection at the hotel. I’ll update my stories later.

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