Posts Tagged ‘amsterdam’

You know, I’m always curious what everyone thinks when it comes to the results of the Lead Nationals. I created a poll for you. Please vote and lets find out if your result will come true in 2 weeks!

Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Lynn van der Meer (36%, 21 Votes)
  • Aniek Lith (17%, 10 Votes)
  • Pauline Schreurs (12%, 7 Votes)
  • Tiba Vroom (10%, 6 Votes)
  • Roelien van de Vrie (9%, 5 Votes)
  • Nikki van Bergen (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Marianne van der Steen (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Iris Straatsma (5%, 3 Votes)
  • Corien Prins (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 72

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Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Truong Ngo (31%, 22 Votes)
  • Mark Brand (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Gerke Hoekstra (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Nigel Armino (13%, 9 Votes)
  • Don van Laere (10%, 7 Votes)
  • Casper ten Sijthoff (8%, 6 Votes)
  • Ulf Lennertz (6%, 4 Votes)
  • Tim Reuser (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Wouter van Roessel (1%, 1 Votes)
  • Tom Reuvers (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 75

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Put this date November 28th in your calendar, it will be excited! NC Lead, get your tickets here.

Yesterday I joined the car with Dirk, Jorg and Timo to Amsterdam. I felt quite relaxed for the competition.

Once we entered the gym in Amsterdam, it was quite crowded. I was thinking of warming up in some routes instead of warming up in a boulder area. I found myself a belaying buddy and climbed a few routes. The judges informed me that there was free food for the competitors while I was belaying. After climbing I enjoyed my free meal in the isolation area.

Soon the finals were about to start and we were briefed by Jorg and the judges about the finals. The ladies went out first and I was still in the isolation with the guys. I knew I had to start first when the ladies were done climbing, so I tried to keep myself warm.

It was finally time to get out the isolation. We were first introduced one by one to the audience. It was super crowded. I was standing in the spotlights, had my shoes ready and thought I had to stay after reading the route. When I first saw the route I was quite impressed. Immediately my eyes were focused on two volumes with a crack in between. Awesome! I knew I had to make a double handjam, but I had never done that before. Anyway, the rest of the route, seemed quite nice. There was a hidden knee bar, a lot of heelhooks, crossing over and no dyno’s! I was focusing at the spots where to clip the draws. The prep time was over and I had to get myself ready in the isolation.

When the speaker announced my name, I felt quite energized! I ran towards the wall. I just felt like climbing. I was enjoying every moment of it.

Finals_1

Photo credits: Sytse van Slooten

The first part of the route was a warmup, until I had to conduct a double hand jam. It was okay to put one hand between the crack, however when I tried to match my right hand, it felt awkward. As if my left hand was about to slip out of the crack! For a moment I looked at my own hand, was it damaged? No it wasn’t. Great! So lets give it another try and jam it in there. I thought it was quite funny though. It didn’t really work with my feet below me. I needed more pressure on my foot to keep myself in the wall. I climbed back and thought of an alternative as I was resting for a bit. This time I placed a heelhook just below my right hand and matched my hand deep in the crack. My theory was the more skin between the crack, the better it stays in there and it worked! Pfff, 2 minutes later, I finally passed that first crux and I was still 6 meters above the ground.

Finals_2_s

Photo credits: Sytse van Slooten

Then I went onto the next holds, which were all positive. Until I grabbed these 2 white holds behind the volume, slopey holds which you had to pinch. From here, I felt a little bit uncomfy. My feet placement were directly below me as I had to go to the volume above me. I felt like I was going to launch myself like a rocket. There was no other footholds, except for that huge green hold. I chose not to use it and place both my feet below me. I launched myself like a rocket without even getting close to the volume. Shit. That was it. I knew that wasn’t the right position for this reachy move. I’m upset that I couldn’t fight until the end. On the contrary, I was happy to be part of this event. I had some mixed feelings, knowing that I could have done much better. Anyway, I accepted the fact and it was time to move on and cheer on the rest of the competitors!

As I untied myself, I was instructed to seat next to this guy with a red hoody. I was on a doping control! What in the world? Are you serious? I wasn’t allowed to go to the restroom and was under surveillance until the end of the competition.

After the competition, I had to go outside, step into a big van and piss under commando. Well, it took me quite a while. To be honest, it’s quite a tedious process. Fill in your name, address, doctor, coach and having this guy observing you while you do your thing in a restroom in a van. Anyway, when that was all done, I went back to the gym. Most of the competitors and friends were gone. Such a pity, I wanted to share some emotions about the route. Time to go home.

I was happy for Tim who topped out the route. Unfortunately I didn’t see any of the ladies climbing live, but I watched the streaming when I was home. It was fun to hear the comments of Paul and Dirk. The ladies had an amazing route as well! I ended up last this final (click to see final scores here), but I had oodles of fun and enjoyed being in Amsterdam. @Jorg, thanks for setting such an awesome route!

Note to self: I know what to work on, climbing cracks!

Watch the finals back here. My action starts at 01:08. Have fun!

Video: NC Finals 2014

Come Saturday november 22nd the last lead competition of the year will be held in Amsterdam. This venue has a great atmosphere to host a championship.

I haven’t competed in many lead competitions lately, so I’m really excited to be back in the spotlights again!

Video: Promo Lotto Lead 2014

During the semi finals a few weeks ago, I barely advanced to the finals. I guess I was lucky and now I’m one of the 8 finalists who may climb a final route set by one of the world’s best allrounders Jorg Verhoeven. I’m curious about his setting style and I hope it will suit me!

The Lead National championship has a day programme where I will start climbing exactly at 20:15 hours. I will enjoy the most out of it. Anyway, see you in Amsterdam, otherwise if you cannot make it, there will be livestream available.

Wish me luck 😀 😀 😀

Opening-MonkLast weekend I drove with Climbcheck founder Joey from Eindhoven to Amsterdam to visit the opening of Monk Bouldergym.

On the backseats Timo and Noortje tagged along. On our way it was windy and snowing. Fortunately we arrived without any trafficjams.

My first impression of the bouldergym was very nice. Free bouldering among lots of enthusiastic people. The boulders were quite diverse and the holds were awesome and raw!

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I was psyched to boulder at Amsterdam. I had a good time among the climbers. The bouldergym looks finished and the bar area was great. The soccertable upstairs is a nice add on. You delivered great work Monk. See you next time!

Video: MXXX

Yesterday was another national competition: Boulder 2.

Last week I decided to join this competition. I signed up last minute, but my name didn’t appear on the start list when this competition was announced by the NKBV.

I made a phonecall within my network and tadaaaaa! My name was on the starting list. Yesterday It took me 2 hours to get to this venue in Amsterdam. This boulder contest was held in a new climbing gym from Mountain Network.

I arrived just on time. My planning was to arrive earlier though, but I got delayed. I don’t trust internet anymore. I planned my trip to arrive at 11.00 but I arrived 45 minuter later at my destination.

Anyway, I enjoyed the sun and Amsterdam. And when I entered the climbing gym I received a sticker number 72 and a green topoguide.

The entrance is the climbing gym is on a different floor. You have to go by elevator to floor nr. 6! I saw a few photos on Facebook before and I was wondering if it was really that big.

My first impression of the climbing gym: Hmm I thought this gym was humongous. Obviously not, but I haven’t climbed a single route yet though. The funny thing is, when you look outside the window, you can spot the old Mountain Network building! Check it out haha.

I warmed up on a vertical wall and was wondering where everyone was bouldering. It wasn’t crowded at all! I looked on the topoguide and saw another floor plan with a boulder area. The stairs was hidden behind a wall to go down to floor 5.

I walked down the stairs and saw a boulder area. This place looks like Neoliet Tilburg boulder area but bigger. It was crowded and dusty. How am I suppose to climb when it’s so crowded? I was going explore the problems among the crowd.

I believe we had 4 hours 3 hours to climb 6 hard problems. There were lots of hard problems but many of them were morpho in my opinion. Again this was a test to see if I’m getting back in shape. I needed time to warm up proper. The holds were quite rough and new, which made it painful to climb long. I climbed 6 problems in 3 hours 2 hours and took an hour extra rest.

I knew this score was enough to advance to the finals. 8 people is a lot in the finals. I ended up 3rd ex-equo with Elko. He managed to climb exactly the same problems.

Casper was curious and decided to check the new Mountain Network gym out. La Sportiva was present and it was nice to see what kind of shoes they have in stock.

In the meantime I received a Monk shirt from Dirk. I’m part of Monk, so I’m happy to represent it during the finals!

The isolation area was the boulder area. This time the boulder area was open to finalists only. I thought it was summer, but in here it was cold. I needed to keep myself warm and stay focused.

Later we had a short briefing by a judge. He shared the rules and told us we are going to use the 4 minute system. This system works okay if we were with 6 climbers. Now I can get extra rest when my time is up.

The first problem was morpho. I couldn’t even reach the third hold which is lame. I know I had to jump but the footholds were set too low. Not to mention, jumping to a undercling is just lame. I didn’t like this. No matter what I tried, nothing helped. Stupid boulder!

I think the second problem was challenging. Big volumes and only 6 blue holds. I tried different methods in this problem, however the volumes are so not attractive. We were having discussions before we started to climb. It’s a fact that you shouldn’t paint a volume twice. And I think what happened here is that the volumes are repainted twice, which makes it really smooth. In this condition it was really hard to get hold of the volume. Plus the volumes weren’t set proper and it’s skin / arm unfriendly. But the idea was nice though.

The third problem seemed hard but it actually was nice. The final hold was hard to match. It was the crux though. I skipped the bonus hold and jammed my knee between two holds and managed to match the final hold in my second attempt. Finally a small success during this round!

The last boulder problem was hard or missing footholds. Crossing over above your head into a sidepull was just odd. Not meant for me. I tried different methods here, but it’s not my kind of problem. I only got a bonus here.

When I drew conclusions after the competition, I thought that I would end up 5th. Elko seemed to have exactly the same performance. So when I left home, I figured to check out the results on the webpage. Hmmm I ended up 3rd ex-equo with Elko! What a surprise haha.

Oh well, I’m spending more climbing hours lately and it seems to pay off. Although not in the right competition yet, but I’ll get there. Check out the rest of the results here.
Check out the photo set taken by NKBV by clicking on the photo below.

Boulder 2 H2

Source: NKBV

2 days after Puurs, I had my first competition of the year: Lead 2.

I had to skip the first lead and boulder competition due to work.

But now I have more time and I can test my climbing level with this lead competition.

The climbing gym looks quite Amsterdamned.

Anyway, inside that box was a nice ambiance. I was quite on time and it seems like everyone had to wake up first.

I took my time to start my climbing day. I ate some breakfast first, although this pie seems so sweet.

To be honest, I was still pumped from Puurs…it sucks. During my warm up I didn’t feel pumpy yet however during the qualifiers I had to climb controlled and shouldn’t give up too fast. I should just focus on the routes and my goal was to end up in the finals.

Fortunately the qualifications went well. Even though I felt pumpy before I started, I managed to send one of the 2 routes. The other route was simply impossible for me at that moment to send away.

Eventually the judges presented us a provionary score as usual. However, they didn’t seem to pay attention. 4 climbers didn’t get the score that they suppose to have, including me! I didn’t agree with this score and we teamed up like The Avengers and wrote a letter.

The judges took our note very seriously and had to confirm it by video. Later they admit that we’re right about our scores. Hell yeah! It was time to take a peek at the final route. Everyone has it’s own way to prepare.

Soon it was my turn to climb the finals. During the finals I figured I should climb somewhat faster.

It worked out pretty well! Even though I was already pumped before I got started, I managed to end up 5th.

It felt like as if was dying in a route but I kept on fighting.

I must say that this route was perfect for a finals. Perhaps I could have climbed better during this route, but with that little training I shouldn’t complain too much. I’m content with my score!

Check out more photos taken by NKBV by clicking on the photo below.

Lead 2 HF6 zw

Source: NKBV

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