Time flies so fast. Meanwhile it was a week ago that the Worldcup boulder was downtown at Eindhoven.
I spotted another video about the Worldcup boulder at Eindhoven on the webpage of Udo Neumann. It gives a really nice impression about the competition behind the scenes. Check it out yourself when rain pours down on Eindhoven!
The next worldcup on the calender already took place this weekend in Barcelona. If we scan the Dutch team on the result list, we find a nice result from Nicky de Leeuw who advanced to the semis yet again and ended up 18th, whereas Casper ten Sijthoff finished on 27th, Wouter Jongeneelen on spot 39 and Vera Zijlstra on spot 26. The rest of the results are here.
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Just like previous year Nicky de Leeuw crashed at my place. It was midnight really fast after a nice game of ping pong and some stressful punching on gamecontrollers. Nicky could manage his loss very well. However my night was awesome and we decided to get some sleep.
We’d set our alarm at half past 7, so we would be on time to support the ladies in the qualifications. In the morning we visited a local supermarket to get ourselves a nice breakfast. A few buns of bread should be nice. Nicky picked some peanutbutter and I felt like Nutella chocolate spread.
After our breakfast we went downtown by foot. Then I realised that I had forgotten my chalkbag. I left it behind in Monk! Oh well, I’ll pick that up later. We’re happy it was such a nice weather with sunshine.
The worldcup venue was downtown. It was nice to see how everyone still got involved by the music and the whole setup to see what’s going on. The worldcup boulder of course!
The ladies started climbing, the best were climbing first. The problems were funny and creative. For instance, modules were placed upon other modules. It looked so easy to climb.
Meanwhile the square was getting pretty crowded. David Sluijs sat next to me, he’s our federation doctor. He advised me about food. What is good food to eat before you start a competition? What kind of food is easy to digest en gives me the energy I need? His response was pasta. It’s good to eat pasta 3 hours before a competition and not to forget some sugar. That was a good suggestion, I was getting hungry anyway!
After the ladies qualifications, it was time for us to go to the isolation. I wanted to arrive there as late as possible, due to my start number. I’m one of the last climbers anyway. The isolation was at the Beursgebouw building. I received my start number sticker and had to hand in my cellphone. I wasn’t allowed to have contact with anyone outside this building.
In the isolation area, you could see teams sticking together. Each country was relaxing for themselves and everyone was reuniting on the warm up wall. I felt good and didn’t have any injuries. After one hour our fysio Tessa van Roy gave me a nice massage to loosen up my back. I got treated on her massage table and it felt so good.
In the background I noticed isolation people were working hard. They managed this area pretty well. It contained lots of food, drinks, magazines, mats, chairs and a warm up wall.
I wanted to warm up proper but I couldn’t. It was just too crowded on the wall. I wanted to get pumpy but it just seemed impossible on such a small wall. I changed my tactics and divided my warm up session in multiple climbing series. It went well but unfortunately no pumpy arms.
After 5 hours of isolation, it was finally my turn! We got escorted with an umbrella to the competition wall. Near the competition wall was another isolation area. It contained fridges with cans of Redbull and lots of water. I prepared myself and put on my Boreal competition shoes and received a score form. I could feel other people getting nervous. I just had to manage myself in 5 minutes.
I saw the last few seconds ticking away on the digital clock. Yes here we go! I’m entering the mats and walk towards the first wall. Every boulder was explained in English. It was obvious how to get started. The first move was tricky, there were no footholds and you don’t want to zip away.
To reach the bonus, you had to place your left foot on this black sloper hold. I wasn’t strong enough to compress these holds together. I understood the problem very well but I wasn’t able to conduct these movements. I needed more time for this. The game has just started and all I had was just 5 poor minutes to send this problem.
I didn’t manage to reach the bonus. I figured I was well rested from my holiday. I only got frustrated and wanted to shake my hands alive.
It didn’t work. I got punished in the very first problem. My time was up and I got back in the isolation. We weren’t allowed to talk about boulder problems. It was a pretty serious observation in there. I tried to reset myself for my second boulder. After 5 minutes of rest I could start all over again.
In the second boulder I took my time to figure out the proper sequence. The beginning wasn’t so difficult. However the crux was at the end of the problem.
With my left hand I was trying to pinch this big fat slopy module while I was holding an undercling with my right hand. Next was a mean pinch and that felt like the crux of this problem. I wanted to place a heelhook with my right foot but in that point of view that hold was like gone. Oh well, I performed a knee drop and went to the pinch!
I succeeded only once to get the pinch. I just didn’t want to let go but matching it was too difficult. I fell out of the problem and got disappointed. Back in the isolation I was thinking about the problems. They seem possible though, but with my current condition it was impossible. Lets see what problem 3 is about!
When I arrived at my third boulder, I faced the wall and all I saw were big purple holds. A monster! I could barely pinch it. I was just pinching it while standing on the mat. This is it.
When I went for the second hold, I felt like I was dying. I could hardly pinch the second hold, it was so big. Continuing with my left hand seemed just impossible.
I tried to put my foot on my right hand hold but nothing seemed to work. There was simply no space for my heel! Well, this is the truth. I was confronted by these purple holds. I didn’t know what to do with it!
I tried a few more times, but I only got tired of trying. I couldn’t find the right tension to climb this horrible monster. I felt weak.
Back in the isolation I checked my score form. I see dashes, no scores, nothing. Just a few bonuses. Sad, real sad score. Then I figured, what the hell am I doing? I wasn’t enjoying this competition at all. I was only getting frustrated. I wasn’t climbing, I didn’t like my situation!
Within 5 minutes I tried something new. I wanted to enjoy climbing, that’s what this is all about. It was a mental game. I know I’m not in shape but here I am. It was an honour to be here. I had just set a new goal. It was time for my 4th boulder problem.
A buzz went off and I ran towards my 4th problem. This wall was set with modules. I figured out what to do.
The first few attempts failed. I had to try something else. What would Kilian do in this situation? But of course, using the corners! I wanted to climb like that and I did. I felt pretty warmed up and nearly managed to send the boulder. Unfortunately I fell before the final hold!
I had 2 minutes left. I knew I could do this! All I had to do is get a proper rest. Just one more try. I could feel the adrenaline in my body. I chalked my hands before I started this problem. I placed my hands on the volume and checked out the timer and knew this was my moment!
The movements went okay. I placed a knee bar between the volumes and managed to grab the next hold. I was so close to the final hold. I couldn’t reach it though! I can’t give up, I won’t let go. I replaced my left heel and compressed my legs. I could reach the final hold static and I heard the crowd was cheering for me! It gave me more energy to match the final hold. Yeaah! I was so relieved and at the same time I felt so strong.
Back in the isolation I was trying to recharge myself one more time. I was sweating and my body felt like superman. I wanted to climb more! I was enjoying my rest time and soon I had to perform one more time.
Boulder number 5 was really nice but also very difficult. Just like the second boulder problem, the crux was at the end. The begin was okay. I liked this move, crossover to an undercling and then stand up on a volume.
Then it was time to stand up and go for a small slopy hold on a module. From this undercling and the pinch on the volume, it was a matter of deadpoint to a slopy hold. It felt hard to jump without any footholds. For a second I thought I should match this pinch, but it was impossible. I can’t pinch anymore, I’m too weak. I was jumping but I couldn’t get my hands on the slopy hold. There were no footholds! Well I think it was just some crazy semi one arm pull up and if you’re not strong enough, you won’t make it to the slopy hold. Even if you hang on the slopy hold, you would still have to make another move to send the problem!
My final attempt was poor. It was time for me to leave the stage.
I felt a lot of emotions. I don’t know what to do with it. Should I be content with my result? I had 1t4 3b4. A lame score, 59th place. Of course I did my very best however I just had 2 weeks of rest. My body is still in rest mode. I simply need more time to get back in shape.
Most important is the experience. I enjoyed my time. It was fun, exciting, challenging and I can go on for hours. No semi finals for me. It’s impossible with such a result. To advance to the semis you should send each problem. Only the best boulderers deserve a spot in the semis.
It was really nice to compete in this competition. I’d like to thank Jorg Kemner for his great and colourful photos! You can check out more photos related to the worldcup here, here and here.
Next I’d like to thank everyone who supported me during the Worldcup boulder at Eindhoven. Despite the rain, I’ve had an unforgettable weekend. Last but not least the after party Samedi Soir at Monk! 1 word: incroyable!
I’m well motivated for my next competition at Chamonix in France. Lets train some routes!
Just one more day until the boulder Worldcup will start and I’ll be downtown Eindhoven performing among 116 other top climbers of the world for a semi final spot!
Here are some fun facts:
- According the startlist of the IFSC, I’ll be in group 1. My start number is 34 out of 37.
- Between 11.30 A.M. and 12.30 P.M. I have to be in the isolation (Beursgebouw building), waiting for about 5 hours. From 11.30 A.M. I’ll be difficult to reach by mobile (we’ll have to hand in our mobiles) and I’ll focus on the competition.
- The qualifications for men will start at 2.30 P.M. and ends about 6.30 P.M. I think I’ll be climbing about 6 P.M. Check out the full program here.
- If you’re not able to witness this event, then you can check out the webcam to follow me. The IFSC has their own livestream.
It’s pretty obvious by now that this event will take place on the 18 September square. This square is forbidden area to all 117 athletes including me. We’re not allowed to see the holds, it’s a competition! I can only show you a photo of the empty walls and a nice platform of this square!
Our isolation / warm up area will be in the Beursgebouw, which is located about 200 meters away from the competition wall. The small isolation is right behind the competition wall.
To cut my story short, I have a weather forecast for you: Some drizzle, heaviest during Wed afternoon, very mild (max 19°C on Tue afternoon, min 10°C on Fri afternoon), wind will be generally light. (source: weather-forecast.com)
I’m going to dress warm and leave my shorts at home. Wish me luck and see you tomorrow!
Finding the proper boulder mood by watching videos is great. I’d like to share a few videos from the previous worldcup. It was held a week ago in Vail, The United States.
More photos are available on this website.
What can you expect from a Worldcup at Eindhoven? To answer this question, I also found a video from last year.
Tell me, you’re getting psyched too right? I feel like bouldering myself. I just got out of the airplane and I went to Monk Bouldergym to climb and today I’m planning to visit City Lizard. It’s time to work out!
I’ve shared enough for now, I’m going to climb yeah!
Hey everyone!
It’s been quiet for a while on my webpage. I was gone a few weeks to Hong Kong and Singapore. Usually I go on a climbing holiday but this time was different. I went on a normal sightseeing holiday.
I’ve visited Hong Kong for a short week and gave Singapore a visit as well. It was an unforgettable trip. Below you’ll see a selection out of a few thousands sightseeing photos. I hope you’ll enjoy it!
Update:
Due to my holiday I was unable to join the Lead 3 qualification competition. However I collected enough points during the first 2 lead qualifications. In the overall results of the competition I’m currently 7th, which is enough to join the National Championship leadclimbing of 2011!
Speaking about competitions, the Worldcup Boulder at Eindhoven deserves some media attention too. It has been announced for a while. After Italy, Slovenia, Austria, Canada and the US, the Netherlands will follow very soon.
Come Friday 17th and Saturday 18th of June, the best competition boulderers will come to Eindhoven to show what they’ve been training for. As you can see on the startlist there are quite some Dutch people, including my name! I’m well rested and already psyched about the event!
This year the event will be held at 18 Septemberplein instead of the Klokgebouw. There is no entrance fee, so please join the event and support us!!
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