Goodmorning there!

Would you like to see what it’s like to travel from one worldcup comp to another? Shauna Coxsey takes you behind the scenes of the first four IFSC Boulder World Cups of 2014.

Enjoy watching the video :)

Video: Shauna Coxsey’s diary part I

Have you heard of psicobloc before? In a nutshell, psicobloc is a form of solo climbing (aka deep water soloing) over a deep body of water. No harness, no rope and just climb!! 😀

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Chris Sharma explains it very well in this video. Check it out!

Video: Compilation Psicobloc 2014

Video: Ladies finals

Video: Men’s finals

Hey hello climbers :) Let’s go back in time because I have some old news to share!

As you can read from the title, this post is about RE-SET from Friday June 20th. I managed to climb all 12 boulders and earned double points from the final edition. Here are some photos taken by Tanya.

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Number 24, which was a white boulder with sloper holds, had one difficult move. When I went for the sloper hold on the side I injured my left shoulder however I continued and sent the boulder.

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I quit climbing immediately and took some rest for the night.

The results can be found here and more photos of the event here.

2 weeks ago I went climbing at Freyr in Belgium. In my opinion it was one of the hottest weekends of the year!
I was accompanied by Valentina & Arnold and Tanya. I didn’t climb much, but I had a lot of fun being outdoors. It felt like +25 degrees and during the evening our car got attacked by hail as huge as gumballs. We survived it and we’re all doing good for your information.

During this weekend I ran into my friend Paul Lahaye. He forgot his rope and carried his camera with him. It was too hot to climb anyway, so he ran up the rocks and took some photos while I was working in Surplomb Davaille. I still need to come back and send it though!

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I’ll be back in cooler conditions.

Last week of May I flew to Treviso with Tanya and Sven. We flew on Saturday and planned a week in Arco.

From Treviso we drove to Arco. It took 2,5 hours to get to our campsite. The weather was nice and sunny however we noticed that there are a lot of local showers especially above our campsite.

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Sunday we visited Val d’Agone. The description in the topoguide was quite accurate. I drove towards Sarche > Ponte Arche > Banali > Val d’Agone. I dropped Tanya and Sven near the crag and went to Trento to pick up another friend Anne who I invited to join us in Arco. On my way back our navigation led us to a different place. Nevertheless it took a long while to get back to the crags and called it a day.

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The next day we visited Massone. The familiar stories about polished routes came true. I climbed the most polished route of the crag called Pegasus. Warning: Don’t ever climb this route, it’s not fun at all and should be deleted out of the topoguide. Next to this crag on the right, 30 meters further, there are better routes with more overhang. I climbed 5 routes in a row which was awesome!

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Tuesday until Friday we visited Nago. This area is quite accessible by car and takes 10 minutes to walk to the crag. There are benches to sit, a big square where the sun shines, easy routes to warm up and hard routes in the shadow! I can’t wish for anything better. When you walk more into the forest, you’ll find walls and routes up to 40 meter! The view is amazing and the routes are lovely.

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1 week sounds too short though. I left a project behind which I think I can send under better conditions. The route is called Ghost Rider and is really awesome! I was able to test my new Boreal Satori shoes in this route. These toe down shoes are perfect in the overhang. I just need to link 3 moves together at the beginning of the route. Anyway, I will come back to finish it, hopefully very soon.

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I climbed 5 days in a row and felt exhausted but happy at the end of the week.

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I had a great time with friends in Arco! See you soon.

A few weeks ago I went to Berdorf with some friends.

I haven’t been there for a while and it was good to be back at the sandstone rocks. We arrived on Friday evening at campsite Martbusch, set up the tents and tried to get some sleep.

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Usually I can sleep well in a tent, however this time there were some loud Germans who kept everyone awake until 4 AM. Fortunately I brought my earplugs with me and I could reduce the noise :) To those who tried to get some sleep that night, I feel sorry for you.

The weather was actually quite cold in the shadow. I brought my hammock with me and set it up between 2 trees. I was tagging along with some friends and didn’t have a belay buddy. Anyway, for me it was a relaxing day and met some other friends as well.

That day I warmed up in Heinz (6C) and continued to set quickdraws in Daiwel (7B+). Right after that route I climbed Gincobiloba (7B) which I think is much easier than Daiwel. Last try of the day was Cima Ovest. This route contained a dyno which was really nice. I saved this route for the next day.

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At the campsite I was offered a huge hamburger from some friends. Later we went to this pizza restaurant and spent some time there in the evening. When we went to sleep, again this night our German youngsters stayed up all night. There was a discussion on the campsite and other climbers tried to ask them friendly to keep it down. No sleep until 4 AM, unless you had earplugs.

Sunday morning I saw sensed small eyes from my friends who barely slept this weekend. I wanted to climb some more routes on Sunday. I started to warm up with Voleur de Spits (7A+).

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Here my friend Alvin is climbing the same route (Voleur de Spits).

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Then I wanted to set the quickdraws for Cima Ovest. However I managed to climb Cima Ovest (7C+) in the same time. Jumping with quickdraws is possible. That was really cool.

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In the afternoon I climbed the route of Hasta La Vista Gringo (8B) however I didn’t managed to pass the crux. Now I know it’s impossible for small people like me, I just wanted to try it for myself. Such a pity of this line. Tall climbers should definitely try this route, it’s a must!

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I finished my day with a send of Infernale (7B) which I think is fairly easy for the grade. Here’s photo of my friend Chris, tried to encourage him through the route!

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Overall, I had a great weekend (besides the noise at night) with friends in the forest. I bought myself a topoguide. My goal is to climb all the routes Berdorf has to offer, sounds like fun doesn’t it?

Anyway, thanks Den Tserkovnyi for shooting the photos and see you around in Berdorf :)

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