Yesss, it’s Friday and nearly weekend! I have spotted a really awesome video. This one is about Alex Honnold. Solo. No sweat, no rope and 100% focus. A must see!
On January 15th, 2014 Alex Honnold made the first-ever free solo ascent of El Sendero Luminoso, a 1500-foot big wall in Monterrey, Mexico, rated 5.12d. This is a raw, slo-mo clip from his climb of pitch 7, 5.12a. Footage shot by Cedar Wright, Renan Ozturk, and SkySight RC.
This is the story of Chris Webb Parsons. Chris, a strong Oz who has been at the forefront of rock climbing for many years takes you through his life, thoughts and some of his recent ascents including his 2 latest V15 ascents!
By the way, this video takes about an hour. Nice footage and interesting story for sure!
“Don’t blink…Life goes faster than you think”
Yesterday the 6th edition of Dust open competition was held at Monk Bouldergym! I was quite excited cause I managed to sign up last minute.
I didn’t climb the last few days to save up some energy and some climbing skin on my fingers. I prepared my lunch at home and arrived at the gym 5 to 10. The doors weren’t open yet, but I was psyched to climb! I knew Monk would use new holds and a bunch of new volumes.
When I entered I was one of the first climbers. I received a T-shirt. There was a box full of pencils and topoguides. Monk was ready to receive a lot of climbers today! There were 90 boulders set in total, all spread over the gym.
I started to warm up on a few easy boulders on the training wall. After that I searched for some vertical wall problems. In my mind I had prepared some strategy to tackle all the problems. My goal for today was to climb as many problems as I could including hard problems.
After 40 boulders I decided to take short lunch break. It was already quite dusty which was no surprise if you have 250 other climbers around you. After my lunch break I changed climbing shoes. I tried some hard problems. Some of the hard problems took longer than expected, other problems I managed to climb in 1 or 2 attempts. This year some of the 7b and most of the 7c problems were set hard. I tried a few attempts in one lime 8a boulder, but it took too much effort and quite some skin. I was decisive and continued to climb less hard problems.
At 3 P.M. I wasn’t tired yet. Status from this point: managed to climb 68 boulders so far!
So I still had 22 boulders to go. Sometimes it takes a while to wait in line because it was too crowded. It was so cool to climb on new holds. I like the new Made by Monk holds in particular the pockets.
Anyway, I was glad I still had skin left on my fingers. The last 2 hours I didn’t climb that many problems. I ended up with 73 boulders out of 90! My best 8 problems had a score of 5800 points. I was wondering if that was good enough to end up in the top 10.
To me it was a daily challenge to climb as many problems as possible. Surprisingly I wasn’t that tired yet. Anyway, I knew there were other climbers trying to climb all the problems as well. Elko was one of them. He managed to climb 1 more boulder, well done!
When it was time for the price ceremony, I was quite surprised. During the competition I saw Rustam Gelmanov cruising through these hard boulders. He seems really fit to me. I knew Rustam was the best climber of the day, however there was another guy from Belgium who claimed to have climbed all the 90 boulders! That means this guy had won the hardest category and also the most boulders of the day. I think this is just a super lame way to win a price. Why did I just say that? Well, I saw a lot of people climb. The hard boulders are quite obvious however I didn’t see him climb any of them. Usually I don’t care about the results, but to be honest I don’t believe you can climb the hardest boulders and all of the boulders in a few hours.
@Belgian guy: If you climb all the boulders, just like you claimed last year, then I will be happy to climb along with you next year. Obviously I lack technique and power, therefore you can show me how you tackle the hardest problems. Please do contact me. If you climb all the hardest boulders, why won’t you join the boulder Worldcups this year? I’m sure you can win easily
Back to results. I ended up
3rd 2nd in All you can climb category and ended up 7th 6th in the overall score ranking. It was an amazing day with fun boulders.
Update February 3rd 5 P.M.: Did you compete too? Check your result here.
I’m glad these boulders will stay for a while so I can finish the rest of the boulders on my list. Thanks for the great time everyone. I enjoyed a day of climbing! See you around in Monk.
When I saw this video I thought: wow, China actually has really nice environments to climb. Regardless the smog and dirtiness in China, the climbing area and people in Yangshuo seems very friendly and peaceful!
I like the route China Climb with a lot of crimps. Yeah my style! Check out the video.