Wow I just saw a wicked climbing movie!
Put some super talented climbers together, with a filmcrew and you’ll have this nice video as a result. It’s nice to see how hard Adam needs to work in this route, nonetheless the camera point of views are great as well.
Check out this movie. You’ll love it!
Background information:
“Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 9b line at Oliana, Spain in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climb in the world. We had Bernardo Gimenez on the scene to document Adam’s efforts and he was fortunate enough to be there for the redpoint. Below is the outstanding video Bernardo edited together, as well as brief recap from Adam. Stunning. Impressive. Inspiring. Absolutely bad ass. Congratulations, Adam.”
Oliana is one of my favorite areas in the whole region of northern Spain. It’s a stunning 50-meter long wall of orange and blue limestone with complex climbing. The wall dries out rather quickly, so I had the opportunity to try out one of projects that Chris bolted called Chaxi Raxi already the first day after the period of rain. It felt very difficult at the beginning, especially the very first crux. I could do every single move, but to link two of them seemed incredibly difficult. The top part seemed more possible—I could link the moves without serious problems except two of them, where I found terrible extra-powerful beta skipping two holds, until Chris told me to try it differently, a much more crimpy and static way. Though crimps are what I excel at and Chris prefers big moves on reasonable holds, our initial betas had been completely the other way around.
Getting back to Chaxi Raxi, I stunned myself that I managed to send the easier variation, skipping the first bouldery section via a detour of 7b, which could be around 9a+ on its own right. There was the time now to work a lot on the lower boulder problem and then I might be able send. But that was hard. I didn’t go very well, but I steadily kept progressing, and the sixth day I manged to get through the first crux, which could a hard 8B+ boulder problem on its own. I took a rest on the tufa and continued. I made it through the crux sections, but in the end of the last difficult, being 100% confident of success, my left heel slipped. And I did not manage to get through the bottom again that day. I got through it once on my 7th day, I fell a few moves below my highpoint, as I didn’t hit the hold right while making dynamic move. I got pretty nervous, since I knew I was able to send it, but I had mere one day left and there are so many sections to make a tiny mistake which might ruin my attempt and also the day, because it is very hard to link the bottom twice in a day. On the first go of my last day, I made it through the first crux somehow, got to the rest and stayed there for a few minutes. This rest is actually enormously useful for the whole route, without the place to shake out it would be undoubtedly 9b+, but it is also a place where you can easily get nervous and think about potential failure. That is what happened to me. The way I continued climbing one can’t call efficient at all, but the route was tiny bit below my absolute limit after eight days of work, and despite getting pumped, I got somehow to the anchor and could enjoy the feeling of victory on the last day of the trip yet again. This is probably my hardest route I have ever done.
— Adam
Today I woke up early to finish my Berdorf story. It takes quite some effort to create a movie and write a nice story about it. I just like to write about my adventures though!
Anyway, I just published my story and had to leave right away to be on time for the 2nd lead competition which was at Bergschenhoek. At Eindhoven I caught the train towards Utrecht along with a bunch of Ajax soccer supporters who felt like drinking beer in the morning and sang songs during the whole ride. After an hour I was relieved to leave this train and joined Pim Cattenstart in his car.
We had to drive a different way to Bergschenhoek because the ring of Rotterdam was closed. Our ride took a tad longer than an hour but we arrived on time.
I signed up at the bar and received a competition number.
First I needed to digest some sandwiches before I was going to climb. Rens sponsored me some cheese because I forgot to fix my sandwiches. I was in a hurry this morning! Next I warmed up with Pim and just a few routes later we had to leave the climbing gym.
The semis was about to start and we had to wait outdoor in a tent. I don’t know who’s idea this was to put us outdoor but none of us were happy about this decision. The wind was cold though.
Anyway, we’re informed by the jury about the semis. 6 Minutes time to prepare the route.
I was cooling down too much after sitting 20 minutes outside. I figured it would be nicer to sit inside.
It was my turn to climb. I didn’t feel like competing in a competition at all. My mind was somewhere else, I believe I was thinking too much about Berdorf. The route went okay until I arrived at the roof.
Then I didn’t rest anymore and grabbed this wall structure which wasn’t very good. I tried to go to the next hold with my left hand but my boy was too close to the wall. I bumped into a quickdraw and fell out of the route. My score seemed just about enough to advance to the finals. I was number 6th.
During the finals I climbed on safe mode again until I arrived at this undercling and started to think too much. Why am I missing footholds here? It’s always the same story, far movements which I could barely reach!
Fine, it was time to change my mindset. Time to rock! With this thought I continued in the route and tried to hurry up and yet stay calm. More or less I just managed to grab the next hold but I won’t let go. I was fighting through this route. Not many people have seen me climbing in this style before though. When I arrive at this sloper triangle I get drained and pumpy. I won’t give up and continue even when I’m pumped.
I was focussing on the next holds and manage to link 6 movements in a row before I fall out of the route. Daaamnnn, I’m so drained and pumpy. Perhaps I shouldn’t have gone to Berdorf to save my energy but it’s so fun!
I think it was a nice final route however a tad morpho. My compliments to the routesetters! For the first time in a long time I felt like giving everything during a competition. The height I have reached makes me end up 3rd and receive a bronze medal. I also received a bottle of beer which I lost in the climbing gym after 10 minutes. Pim ended up 4th just behind me. The rest of the results are viewable on this link.
We’re both satisfied and finally go home. The weekend went pretty fast…See you next time!
After I’ve returned from Fontaine Bleau, all I wanted was to climb more on sandstone. My next weekend was already planned with another climbing trip.
A few days ago I contacted Jérôme again to make plans about Berdorf. It was my initiative to enjoy outdoors again in the forest. The advantage of Berdorf compared to Bleau is that the distance is somewhat shorter from Eindhoven. It’s about 3 hours of driving. Berdorf is a small village in Luxembourg and you can enjoy the sandstone structure in routes.
Friday afternoon we left Eindhoven. We expected to arrive about 3 in the P.M. in Luxembourg however we got stuck in traffic jam which took us another hour to get to Luxembourg.
Grotere kaart weergeven
Oh well, what’s an hour in a lifetime right? When we were halfway, we saw lots of nice landscapes. More hills, more green and yesss more rocks!
When we arrived in Berdorf, we grabbed our stuff and were eager to climb some rocks.
After a few warm up routes, I wanted to climb Bobby Brown. I heard many stories about this route. It was my opportunity to climb it. The quickdraws were already set which was really cool. I heard some information about the route before and witnessed a climber in it. I paid attention to the holds and received valuable information from Jérôme. The result was a 10 minute fight in the wall without letting go any holds! Yes, I managed to flash Bobby Brown. One of the nicest lines of Berdorf!
Jérôme started to try Hermann Buhl and I decided to join him. After a work out session, I must say that it’s pretty hard. There are 2 dynos for me. I find it difficult to climb on this wall. I have to climb very open which isn’t my style at all and there aren’t many footholds.
However when you’ve visited Fontaine Bleau, your confidence level will increase at least with 76% and you believe you can place your feet on the smallest footholds without zipping away. Meanwhile it got darker and we decided to call it a day.
The second day I woke up at 9 A.M. without alarm. A nice time to start right? We fixed a quick breakfast in the morning and arrived at 10 A.M. at the rocks to warmup.
After 3 routes we were planning to send Hermann Buhl. Just before us a Dutch guy Maarten sent the route. Now I was extra motivated to send the route as well!
Maarten was nice enough to switch the quickdraws. Thanks for that! After our first attempt (both on video) I felt a few raindrops! Oh nooooo, not now, I had the sequence printed in my head and had to climb this route today! Jérôme felt the pressure too. We had a lot of pressure and without much rest we were climbing too fast. Jérôme managed to climb the crux but just missed the dyno after the crux! My biceps felt sore and I needed a rest. I ate some baguette with cheese and cucumber and felt better again.
Time to give another go! When I arrived at the crux, I went all out and locked my arm in the left pocket. Surprisingly I managed to reach the crimp below the little roof! Yes, this means I can send it. I need to focus on the dyno! I rested a bit and went to the next hold. Baaam! A short powerful yell came out of me and I bet everyone heard me fighting!
Yes, my righthand was accurate enough to fix the sloper. After a few minutes I could clip the chain. I sent Hermann Buhl to heaven and it made me felt so good.
The routes I climbed this trip at Berdorf:
- Luftikus 6b
- Kaffisdous 7a+
- Willy 6c
- Heinz 6c
- Voleur de spits 7a+
- Bobby Brown 7c flash
- Schotte Bob 6b+
- Hermann Buhl 8a+
This was the end of my day. Later in the afternoon it started to rain. Talking about lucky eh? I have yet another competition to go on Sunday. I feel drained though. Hopefully I can recover for this competition. My motivation for routes has increased. Despite my energy level I feel like climbing this competition!
I have returned from a short holiday!
After 1100 kilometers, I’m more tanned than before and have some mosquito bites and enjoyed lots of delicious chocolate pancakes and croissants.
My journey began last week Wednesday evening. After I got home from work, I quickly packed my bags and left with Jérôme by car to France. 5,5 hours later we arrived at Fontaine Bleau, the boulder paradise where every climber in the world should once visit in a lifetime.
It was about 5 years ago that I have visited Fontaine Bleau! Below you’ll see my journey planned in Google maps.
View larger map
We visited the following boulder areas:
- Roche aux sabots
- Cul de chien
- Isatis
- Bas cuvier
- Gorges du houx
In 4 days I’ve seen quite some boulders. Fortunately I took my compact camera with me. I just edited a short movie so have a look.
I only recorded a few problems. I managed to climb some more problems though:
- Gargantoit 7a 2nd go
- Gargantoit (assis) 7b+ 2nd go
- La Jocker 7a flash (first 7a problem of Cuvier – 1953 – back then it was sent on mountaineering shoes…)
- Arabesque 7b+
- Jeux de toit 7a
Besides this short list I sent some other unknown 7a’s. I don’t know the names because it wasn’t defined in my 7 + 8 topo guide. It’s a nice topo though however I couldn’t find each area that fast. I think it’s just me, because I’m not often in FB. I enjoyed climbing outdoors, without focussing on hard boulder problems.
Besides the mosquitos and the heat, I find it very motivating to boulder outdoor. However lots of problems can be send so much easier in the winter because of the friction. I shouldn’t complain though, 4 days in a row with a lot of sun and great ambience in this lovely forest made me very happy.
I might return during winter times to work on some projects. I like it!
Now it’s time to climb routes again. Au revoir!
Recently the kick off for the IFSC World Cup Boulder took place in Milano.
Team members Wally, Capsle and Vera were present. I wasn’t present, however I just spotted an awesome compilation video from Udo Neumann. Really nice problems! I like!
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