Last weekend was the final option to qualify for the Lead Nationals. This competition was held at Ivy climbing gym in Sittard. It was a beautiful weekend to climb outdoors but I signed up for this competition last minute. It was my 2nd competition of the year and wanted to check out my lead fitness at the moment.

poster

I climbed a few routes to warm up. When I checked out the competitors list, I saw a lot of climbers who didn’t show up. I was hoping to compete against 18 other men, but only 12 showed up 🙁

menlist

womenlist

Here’s a side note to all competitors: Please sign out if you don’t compete. Thank you in advance.

@NKBV: I think we could improve this process by changing our current signup process. There are 4 qualification comps in total. When you sign up online for a competition, you should pay immediately instead of paying on arrival at the competition. This could be a major block to enter a competition, however it shows a clear list of the competitors for a game. Ulf suggested another alternative: when you sign up and not show up at the competition, you’ll receive a yellow card. When you receive 2 yellow cards, you’re out of the game – disqualified – no championship.

From the climbing gym’s point of view, it’s good to know how many competitors show up. I see benefits for the gym, judges and motivated competitors. This way we could avoid the no-show-ups, this is a win-win situation for everyone I think. I hope the competition committee will read and think about this process for next year.

It was fun to see that there was a big difference between age. No longer was I part of the youngsters, but part of the old climbers. Well old climbers like me, came prepared with comp experience 😀 I was here to collect points, so I could still enter the lead championships. In short, there was no room for errors, pure business.

The first qualification was fun. From sight it looked like it was a 6c but when I climbed it, it felt more like 7a+. I made a little mistake at the end of the route however I was able to recover from that and managed to top out the route.

Q1.2

Q1.1

Q1 (Custom)

The second route seemed a bit harder. Chiefsetter Ollie climbed the route as a demo and tried his very best to make this route look like at least 7c+ / 8a.

Q2.5

Q2.4

The crux part for me was to get past the round volume. When I was climbing, I felt okay getting into this kneebar but passing the following 3 holds was the crux. It was enough to advance to the finals of this comp.

Q2 (Custom)

Overall pic (Custom)

finallist

The final route was a nice test piece for me. Again it was set in the overhang. I focused on the last few holds. I knew it was going to be hard from ¾ of the route. The first part of the route felt good to me. I was struggling with some feet sequence but that didn’t stop me from climbing.

F1.3

F1.2

F1

At the end I was surprised that only Casper managed to climb higher than me with 1 hold. I expected at least 2 climbers would pass me, but that didn’t happen. I was happy I ended up 2nd!! Yeah! Silver wooohooo! 😀

Podium

I collected enough points to enter the Lead Championships for this year. My goal for today was achieved. I guess my fitness is okay so far and still have some time to train hard 😉 Click here to view the overall results. See you next time in Amsterdam! 😀

@Paul Lahaye: Thanks for the awesome photos!
@Anouk: Thanks for driving and making snapshots 🙂

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