Last weekend I signed up last minute and joined the first comp of the year which was Boulder 1 competition at Sterk Bouldergym. I knew I couldn’t go all out 100% due to my leg injury which doesn’t seem to recover. Anyway, I wanted to test myself among this strong competiterfield.

It felt like a test to see if I was fit or not. I arrived on time despite the cold icy weather (code yellow). I checked the problems before I changed my clothes. The 8 qualification problems looked cool at first sight.

It was time to start and I felt confident enough to start with the 2nd boulder problem. I could flash it in my first try. Awesome but I wish this boulder was set harder to make more difference in this field though!

On to the next vertical problem number 8. I had to be careful because the volume where I would put my left foot was set really high. Before I started, I brushed the holds with an official extended brush. I could feel the balance in this boulder and could match the final hold in my flash attempt.

Boulder 1

I didn’t set up a plan for the boulders. I was missing a few judges during this comp though. I was looking around and handed in my form where there was no queue at all. I ended up at this jump boulder where you have to aim for 2 holds set on a volume. This boulder was shared with the ladies. Somehow I couldn’t reach the 3rd hold on top of the volume. You couldn’t see the hold from the start position, so I had to jump blind for this one. Unfortunately I didn’t succeed however the rest of the boulder looked fairly easy with 2 screw on edges.

I went to boulder number 6. This one contained small screw on crimps. This should be no problem. Dennis started first and slipped away hard on the edges with his fingers. It was my turn and the same happened to my right hand. In my 2nd attempt my left hand slipped away on the hold. The screw on holds looked kinda chalkless if you know what I mean. Everyone slipped off these holds. I was waiting for a bit and let other climbers climb on these holds first until they looked better to me. It was my turn again and the edges felt so different, I could even chalk my hands during the problem.

Crimps

I admit this felt really different with unchalked edges. It was unnecessary to fall in my attempts but eventually I managed to send this problem.

The same judge was judging boulder number 7 on a vertical / slab. I noticed this boulder could be send easy if you were a bit taller by immediately go to the left volume and put a heelhook next to your right hand. This was impossible for me. I climbed onto the volume first and went for a jump to the left without any handholds.

quali2

After 5 attempts I still didn’t succeed and went to the next problem.

Boulder number 4 was a sitstart with a double dyno to left. I tried 2 times and didn’t even get close. I knew this boulder wasn’t meant for me and gave up on this one.

Then I went on to a boulder on an arrete. This was the first qualification problem. It went okay but I spent too many tries. I had to place my left foot high on a hold and put pressure on it. This didn’t feel so good but eventually I could match the final hold.

Boulder number 3 wasn’t set for me. From the first sloper to the 2nd sloper was a shouldermove and reachy as well. I was fully stretched and couldn’t move. Even with an intermediate crimp in between and a toehook with left on the side this felt like a challenge way above my level. I felt upset that I didn’t fit in between but I just have to accept it.

From my point of view I think the competition would be nicer if there were more judges observing around. It would also give more peace as a climber because there are fewer long queues. Anyway, the qualification went not too bad. The atmosphere was nice and within no time we’re climbing in a dust cloud 😀

I ended up 10th with 4 tops in 9 attempts and felt quite disappointed. I needed at least 5 tops with 1 or 2 attempts each to advance to the finals. It was a pity that I couldn’t fit in between some holds and couldn’t try the rest of the problems. I have to accept it and will keep on training and get stronger to make this up next time 😉

Finals

The finals was set spectacular. A lot of reachy moves however it looked like a nice challenge! During the comp I was missing a host / speaker. I volunteered to be the MC during the finals. Tim liked it and set me up with a mic!

Speaker

The audience was sleepy and I had to wake them up first. Once they were awake, they were cheering the finalists yeah. This was pretty fun!

Speaker-action

Eventually we ended up before 6 PM including the price ceremony! Check out more photos here, here and there. The complete results can be found here.

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