I was dreaming really nice until my phone started playing a song. It was exactly 07:00 A.M. in the morning and time to get up.

I’m getting dressed and fix myself some breakfast. I was having breakfast among French and Austrian people. After digesting some dry buns with ham and drinking some strawberry flavoured juice I was heading to the climbing gym. It’s 10 minutes walking from the hotel. It’s pretty easy to remember, just turn left and walk straight ahead and then turn left again. Fortunately it didn’t rain, the weather is just about the same as in The Netherlands, which was 12 degrees in the morning.

When I arrived at he climbing gym and saw the nice volumes I got really psyched. Left of wall was a demonstration of the routes. I looked at the route and paid a lot of attention to the holds and the structure of the wall.

I’m going to change my clothes and warm up. The isolation area was somewhere in the back. You basically walk through this aisle with dressing rooms. They were all empty, obviously it’s normal to change in the hall near the warm up wall.

I traverse back and forth and try to crimp a lot with my fingers. My fingers feel warm. I’m going back to the competition wall and watch the demo of my first qualification route. I feel like a sponge. I’m recording everything I see. And suddenly the speaker is announcing the first climber! I observe how the first climber is climbing and it looks quite nice. And then I’m returning back to the isolation area to get my harness and warm up again. I notice that I don’t have enough time to warm up anymore yet I have to climb very soon.

Meanwhile Elko and Jorg are present too. Then it’s my turn to climb. I’m sitting on a chair and have to get ready to climb this route.

I stretch my fingers and walk towards the wall. I’m trying to relax and imagine that there is no gravity. In my head there is no gravity and suddenly I get surprised when I have to grab this undercling with my right hand. It’s not going that simple as I would imagine however I manage to pass it.

Truong in the 1st qualification route, Worldcup Kranj 2010

After the roof I have 2 nice holds. Then I have to lock off my left arm. I put my right foot on this yellow hold and go for the next hold. I can feel my fingers touching the next hold, but it’s not enough. I’m out of the route. I keep wondering what did I do wrong. I can think of a lot of reasons why I fell out of the route but I simply don’t want to think about it. Lets climb the 2nd route!

I have plenty of time to prepare my 2nd qualification route. I wonder what went wrong though. There are some movements which I find pretty tough. It felt difficult. There is a positive hold in the roof. When I have to clip a quickdraw, everything still seems to go well. When I want to grab a hold with my left hand, I’m taking too much time to pick a hold. I’m hanging too long with my right arm and I’m getting pumpy. This is not the right moment. I’m trying to match this hold, but I can’t match it. I have to continue to the next hold. I can’t go for it with a pumpy arm like this. I can’t stretch, I’ll only have to pinch harder. I decide to jump and I miss the hold. You can see it back on the video below.

Truong in the 2nd qualification route, Worldcup Kranj 2010

I ended up 54th in the ranking. I rather forget about this result. Oh well, all I can do now is support my team members and shoot some nice photos of the climbing gym.

I like this climbing shop. They sell a lot of cool holds!

By the way, via my Vimeo account you’ll find my team members Elko, Nikki and Jorg climbing their qualifications. Not all the routes are uploaded, because I only have a limited upload account (: The rest of the results are here.

I’d like to share another fact. Nikki nearly placed herself in the semis and Jorg managed to send 2 tops. The semis was quite tricky with lots of sloper holds. Many good climbers fell when they got at this big red volume, however Jorg managed to pass this red volume! He climbed well and advanced himself to the finals!

Jorg in the semis, Worldcup Kranj 2010

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