It was such an awesome Championship yesterday. I still can’t believe what just happened.
Instead of getting sufficient rest before this Championship, I over extended myself last week:
Friday I have been climbing routes at Neoliet Eindhoven.
Saturday I have been bouldering at Monk.
Sunday I have been climbing routes at Neoliet Tilburg.
Monday I have been bouldering at Monk.
Wednesday another day of bouldering at Monk.
Thursday another day of bouldering at climbing centre Nijmegen.
And yesterday it was all or nothing during the competition.
I was looking forward to this Championship all week. I ended up 11th in the qualifications and somehow I managed to send the first boulder in the semi finals. It was so spectacular, a race against time. I figured the correct sequence. On my fifth attempt I managed to grab the zone hold and in the background they shouted that I had only 10 seconds left. I had the final hold with two hands just in time!
The second boulder was quite difficult, I didn’t even manage to get away from the starting holds. I was looking at the rest of the holds and noticed that the final hold was kind of tricky to get both hands on. So I decided not to spend too much energy on this boulder. Looking back it was a trick using a fist jam on the starting holds.
The third boulder was my kind of boulder. It was a good choice of holds. It felt good when trying but I just missed the final hold. I used different methods but none of them worked.
The last boulder was funny. A volume was set upon another volume. In my view it was very creative. The beginning was nice, I fit nicely in the boulder but I was having a hard time to mantle. I tried to put my toe behind this big volume but I couldn’t reach it. In my opinion this boulder felt very hard but I wanted to go for it. It might be my last boulder for today but too bad I couldn’t send this boulder.
However, against all odds I made it to the finals and 1 top was enough! I was surprised because I never expected to be in the finals.
18.15 I had to be in the isolation area. The ladies finals took longer than expected, but it was okay with me. It was 21.30 and it was finally time for our finals. We were introduced to the audience. All I saw was some spotlights and heard lots of people cheering. After that we had 8 minutes to figure out 4 boulder problems. I was running from one boulder to another and tried to visualize myself in the boulder. What was the intention of the setter of this boulder? How am I going to climb this boulder? What is the best and most efficient way? I had so many questions and every finalist was just trying to understand each boulder for themselves. Later we had to return to the isolation area. This time we only had three attempts for each boulder without time limit.
The first boulder was so strange. I didn’t understand the start of this boulder. The volume was above my head and it was the only thing I could barely reach to start with. I began by using the side but it was useless. In my second attempt I tried another solution. I took a run-up and I managed to hold the volume. It worked, haha it was so cool! The crowd became ecstatic too. I fixed the bonus hold but unfortunately I didn’t manage to get further than that.
In the second boulder I only focused on fixing the bonus hold in my first attempt. I succeeded, but it was so difficult to continue after the bonus hold.
In the isolation area it was very tense. Everyone was sitting somewhere else and people didn’t talk too much. What a mental battle in here, one was angry and pissed off and the other was just laying on the mat thinking. I was sitting on my chair and asked how Nicky and Timo were doing. I was having a good time being in front of the audience than being in here.
The third boulder was my type of boulder. It had a nice start and had lots of movements. I made a terrible mistake and didn’t put my hand proper on a hold and I was back on the mat again. Then I noticed how fatal an error could be and I only had 2 attempts left to do it right. Before attempting in this boulder, I took a good look at the holds. I wanted to start but it was so quiet. I was thinking whether the crowd was tensed too? Did they have sweaty hands? The audience could see everyone climbing and I was standing here with a big question mark wondering if I was going to use the proper method and sequence. I turned towards the crowd and all I saw were spotlights. I waved and suddenly there was cheering everywhere. Unbelievable, it was such an adrenaline rush and it gave me so much energy! I was standing horizontal with my body in this boulder problem. I couldn’t reach the final hold and I was having a hard time positioning my foot below me and I couldn’t figure another solution at that moment. Pity.
The final boulder was amazing. Nice volumes and a few holds. I had trouble to getting through the beginning. I wasted my energy twice and had to give everything in my final attempt.
Back in the isolation area I heard lots of cheering for the other finalists. That surely meant a top because they didn’t return to this area. I was thinking of another solution to get through the beginning of this problem. It was my time to go and I had nothing to lose. I waved again to the crowd and again a lot of cheering. It was so nice to stand there and knowing that everyone is having a good time. I started my final attempt and this time I used some technique with my right foot. It worked and I could match my left hand. What an awkward moment, but technique was so important at that time. I managed to grab the bonus hold and I saw the final hold but I couldn’t fix it with two hands. Too bad!
I enjoyed this evening. The crowd was going crazy. The results are official and I’m glad for the others. I learned a lot and I experienced an amazing finals. I ended up as 6th but I am more than satisfied with my result. I would like to thank everyone for their support and enthusiasm. And I would like to thank the organization for this amazing professional event. The after party was top notch with dj Mi-chiel. Now it is time for some rest…
|1. Casper ten Sijthoff||1. Rachèl Nilwik|
|2. Wouter Jongeneelen||2. Channah Brandsema|
|3. Ferdinand Schulte||3. Marianne Verhage|
|4. Timo Tak||4. Nikki van Bergen|
|5. Nicky de Leeuw||5. Rianne van den Berg|
|6. Truong Ngo||6. Kim van den Hout|